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thanks for your comments. You mean the engine will run hot or overheat ?
The fix is to seal the top of the radiator ? is it a complicated thing to do ?
There are foam seals across the top and down both sides of the radiator. The air comes in the bottom of the car and is directed up in front of the radiator. You want the air to be forced through the radiator. If it is open on the top and sides the air won't cool the radiator. When the owner replaced the radiator they didn't install new ones. Plus you would have to make a custom one for the top to make up for the factory air duct being removed. All inexpensive to do. Just a heads up.
There are foam seals across the top and down both sides of the radiator. The air comes in the bottom of the car and is directed up in front of the radiator. You want the air to be forced through the radiator. If it is open on the top and sides the air won't cool the radiator. When the owner replaced the radiator they didn't install new ones. Plus you would have to make a custom one for the top to make up for the factory air duct being removed. All inexpensive to do. Just a heads up.
yes thank you I can see clearly now from your picture. Thanks a lot!
Hello,
I went to inspect the car more closely. I took off the kick panels and tried to take a picture of the bird cage.
What do you think about it ?
The yellowish/brownish stuff is something which looks like rubber and I do not know why it is there. It really feels to be rubber touching it.
Maybe some product to protect from rust ? I Cannot really judge I need some expert opinion here. I Drove the car and well it drives well very comfortable. the transmission si smooth as long as you push the throttle it is smoothly shifting up. But if you kick down then you release it quickly it shifts up very rough and give a kick to your back. Is it normal ?
The temperature gauge IS NOT WORKING. This is scary. I Drove the car for 15 minutes and there was no evidence of overheating. The car has a MSD ignition with a display where various parameters are shown up but there was no temperature displayed... Oil pressure, fuel and so on but no water temperature. I Could not figure out how to get it displayed. It is a very good cruiser and plenty of torque. It looked also really powerful they tuned it with the MSD ECU parameters. Is it complicated to install a third party water temperature gauge ?
Here are pictures of what's behind the kick side panels.
Thanks for your help!
Kick panels look exaclty like mine. Some surface rust, doesnt look structural. Shouldve suggested poking the base with a screwdriver if u had a chance. Should feel solid metal. I also have gobs of that sealent stuff around the bolts and such. I think thats normal too. We’ll see what others say but from what I see your all good to go 👍🏼
dont know anything about temp gauges in these cars, mine has always worked.
Kick panels look exaclty like mine. Some surface rust, doesnt look structural. Shouldve suggested poking the base with a screwdriver if u had a chance. Should feel solid metal. I also have gobs of that sealent stuff around the bolts and such. I think thats normal too. We’ll see what others say but from what I see your all good to go 👍🏼
dont know anything about temp gauges in these cars, mine has always worked.
thanks a lot.
it did not seem bad to me. I gave some kick and looked solid.
I Am worried about the water temp. Especially as the radiator is not sealed.
I would really need a hint about the water temp.
The display with parameters is exactly this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-553-108
it is a Holley. I looked through it but I Could not see anything related to water temp.
Also there is no electric fan for cooling the radiator. Just the normal belt driver fan.
Is this enough ?
I Am worried about the water temp. Especially as the radiator is not sealed.
I would really need a hint about the water temp.
The display with parameters is exactly this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-553-108
it is a Holley. I looked through it but I Could not see anything related to water temp.
Also there is no electric fan for cooling the radiator. Just the normal belt driver fan.
Is this enough ?
The Holley EFI would still need a temperature sender to read the temperature. The factory temp sender (fore the factory gauge) would be on the driver's side of the cylinder head (arrow to area). I don't see the wire coming out of the wiring harness (circled) going to the sender's location. It might have been left unplugged at some point and is hanging there. Can't tell from the photo though.
How many digits are there in the VIN for a 79?
Earlier year model vehicles have less than 17 digits and will not show up as a valid VIN in CarFax.
This ^^^. Even if there were information it would only go back 20 years at best so it won't tell anything about the first half of the car's life. Older cars generally don't benefit from CarFax reports because they won't cover older VIN types and also won't have the older information like a car wreck in 1987 for example.
Thanks for the info.
I Wanted to ask if IT IS SAFE to drive it 50 or 60 miles without the radiator foam for sealing it. Then I Will fix this issue.
Second question I Wanted to ask is if the refitting of the filter housing is mandatory (I know it is not optimal) or can it stay as in the picture I Showed and I Can address it later ?
Thanks a lot. The seller is willing to give it to me for 8500 or so now.
I think it would be a good deal.
Originally Posted by 70s
The Holley EFI would still need a temperature sender to read the temperature. The factory temp sender (fore the factory gauge) would be on the driver's side of the cylinder head (arrow to area). I don't see the wire coming out of the wiring harness (circled) going to the sender's location. It might have been left unplugged at some point and is hanging there. Can't tell from the photo though.
fddi, if you can get it to run clean enough, it will pass smog with whatever motor is in it. The smog test will be your biggest paper work deterrent on this. You have pretty much covered all the mechanical stuff to check for, but you cannot register it in California if it does not pass smog. Also, In CA, its up to the seller to make it pass smog. You can back out of the deal if it does not. Make sure the seller does not stiff you on that. Also on your heater gauge issue sounds like a loose wire to the sensor. They are very close to the manifold and over time fall apart and then disconnect. Cheers!
fddi - Ummmmm - IMHO - asking a 43 year old car to do daily driver duty is NOT a great Idea.
Every single part on the car is old enough that a failure would not be unexpected. Yes - the powertrain is fundamentally a SBC backed by a TH350 trans - and you can easily get parts for the engine and trans - but there are lots and lots of Corvette specific parts that are not so easy to find.
Look - do what you want - but I personally would NOT be considering a 40 year old C3 Corvette for a Daily Driver
fddi - Ummmmm - IMHO - asking a 43 year old car to do daily driver duty is NOT a great Idea.
Every single part on the car is old enough that a failure would not be unexpected. Yes - the powertrain is fundamentally a SBC backed by a TH350 trans - and you can easily get parts for the engine and trans - but there are lots and lots of Corvette specific parts that are not so easy to find.
Look - do what you want - but I personally would NOT be considering a 40 year old C3 Corvette for a Daily Driver
Hey man.......he said is daily commute is 1 and 1/2 miles.
In CA the seller is responsible for the smog test. As long as it was done within 90 days of your purchase. That said, wouldn’t hurt to take it to a place you’re familiar with to ensure that it passes. Not sure if that air cleaner would pass visual without the breather filter or the flap.