Hillbilly Garage
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Joined: Oct 2021
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From: Oregon
After getting all ten rear bumper bolts, washers & nuts started, & left loose…(5 on each side)…
…a bottle jack was used to lift the bumper as high as it could go. Bolts were all tightened & jack removed.
That’s as close as the bumper cover needs to be to get bolted onto the body properly. More surface prep & sanding are needed on the bumper cover before priming & painting.
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Joined: Oct 2021
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From: Oregon
Tail light brackets are made of composite material that doesn’t rust so I didn’t paint them.
I bought new stainless studs, washers & locking nuts for the bumper cover brackets since most of the original studs were rusty, seized & twisted completely off when I removed the bumper covers. Knocking the broken studs out with a hammer was easy. Wire-brushed & painted the brackets with trusty rusty metal primer.
Circular metal brackets inside the tail light recesses got brushed & primed too.
There are obvious differences in the plastic light sockets that determine which tail lights go with which sockets.
This is the outside lens/socket with the little notch in the housing that determines how it goes together.
After bolting the bumper cover onto the body the surfaces lined-up sweetly, just like they’re supposed to. I’ll have to remove the bumper cover again before painting the car, but it’s worth knowing what the procedure entails, and that I have all the hardware needed for a good fit.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 191
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From: Oregon
Timely, you pointing that out…
Yesterday I found a mystery bracket I’d wire brushed & painted some months ago. With help from my 1978 Corvette Factory Assembly Manual, I got it identified.
Who knows what this is?
👇🏼
Good thing I tracked down this “uncomfortable piece of metal” before bolting the front bumper cover in place. As it is, loosening a dozen bumper bolts should get me in to where I can install it.
A very handy reference, requiring stick notes & a measure of OCD to find & mark pages for future reference, since there’s no table of contents or other navigational index.
“REINF FRT UPPER” is all it says, though it doesn’t show the small piece riveted to it on top.
The little partial “hole” at the end of it connects to one of the stainless bumper cover bolts.
This is where it will fit, reinforcing the front left side, just behind the bumper cover.
Last edited by 78Corvetter; Aug 22, 2024 at 04:48 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 191
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From: Oregon
I’m happy with how it fits. Still have some sanding, but expect it’ll be easier to do on the car.
I figured one of you geezers would catch the reference…🥸👍🏼
“Watch your topknot…”
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 191
Likes: 253
From: Oregon
Getting the bracket in wasn’t too difficult. It took loosening ten bolts & some finagling. My trusty old bottle jack helped a lot in lining up the bolt holes during reassembly. I’ve got to rivet it in place & it’ll be done.
Just crazy enough to work…
I couldn’t figure out how else the front bumper cover, brackets & stainless studs are supposed to go on since there’s no way to hold all the pieces together while positioning the bumper cover. I used flexible exhaust gasket goop (Permatex ULTRA Copper) to glue everything together & left it to dry overnight.
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Joined: Oct 2021
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From: Oregon
Well…that didn’t work.
Getting the studs to line up with holes was trickier than I’d anticipated. Having the brackets stay attached to the bumper cover didn’t happen as planned either. Today I’m removing what I managed to attach yesterday.
I’ll mark the locations of the holes in the body on the bumper cover before removing it. I may wind up drilling holes in the brackets that I can use to rivet them onto the bumper cover.
Getting the studs to line up with holes was trickier than I’d anticipated. Having the brackets stay attached to the bumper cover didn’t happen as planned either. Today I’m removing what I managed to attach yesterday.
I’ll mark the locations of the holes in the body on the bumper cover before removing it. I may wind up drilling holes in the brackets that I can use to rivet them onto the bumper cover.
Last edited by 78Corvetter; Aug 23, 2024 at 02:25 PM.
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Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 20,221
Likes: 9,357
From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Good luck....sounds like you need attleast a third arm
Racer
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 278
Likes: 172
From: Pikes Peak region Colorado
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
there are keepers that slide over the studs to help hold them in place. That leaves room for some fine tuning the fit if needed. Tried posting a link but couldn't so look up bumper retainers for c3 and you should findd the round keepers that I am referring to. This weekend I am going to upload some photos of my bumper change and will show retainer keepers.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 191
Likes: 253
From: Oregon
I drilled hole in the brackets & riveted the stainless studs, which already had holes in them, presumably for that purpose. With some finagling I’m pretty sure it’ll work this time.
What I learned from my previous attempt at putting on the bumper cover was that the bumper was about 3/4” too low for the cover to line up with the body. I loosened all of the bumper bolts on both sides & used the bottle jack to raise the bumper with the cover on it; then tightened the bolts.
When it’s bolted in place, I think it’ll line up just fine.
Before that happens there’s some minor Fiberglas repairs, & then priming that needs to happen.
Last edited by 78Corvetter; Aug 23, 2024 at 08:30 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 191
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From: Oregon
Not many pieces left to clean up, repair & install. Mostly interior & trim. Until I’m ready to prime all of the pieces that get painted before installation, like mirrors, headlight bezels, gas cap hatch…I’ll be installing the rest of the trim, to make sure I’ve got the screws needed in decent condition & see what goes where & how.
Interior door panels are in decent condition for their age, 46 yrs. Still need to get plastic push-plugs that attach them to the door.
Everything washed & dosed with MacGuire’s plastic restorative spray.
A taste of autumn came with a drizzle of rain & Canada geese, catching updrafts off the ridge, honking goose songs.
Last edited by 78Corvetter; Aug 27, 2024 at 10:11 AM.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 20,221
Likes: 9,357
From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
geese already...aw come on now....its still hot out. I need the summer to keep goiing for a bit
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 191
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From: Oregon
Fiberglass Day at the ridge…
That’ll do it for today.
Used an acorn wedged between the bottom trim piece, to hold up a little chunk of fiberglass that got broken off. I used epoxy to glue it in place. Will let it dry overnight & follow up with fiberglass next.
With the interior starting to come together, the dream begins to get real.
Padding & carpets are about all that’s left on the inside.
Four new tires & the noisy fun begins. I haven't run the automatic transmission through all gears yet.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 191
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From: Oregon
This repair could have been easily avoided. When I put the hood on the body for the first time, I neglected to fasten the wiring harness…
…underneath the leading edge of the engine bay. When I closed the hood, the little plastic clip caught the front of the hood & chipped a chunk of fiberglass off of it.
Removing the hood isn’t a big deal if you have someone who can help keep it under control after the hinges & hood support bracket are unbolted. Fiberglass mat, resin & a piece of painter’s masking tape were used to rebuild & shape the edge. Drying overnight, sanding tomorrow.
Having the hood off makes it possible to fix the leading edge, & prime the edges.
Last edited by 78Corvetter; Aug 27, 2024 at 10:28 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 191
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From: Oregon
Before replacing the splash guards behind the front wheel wells, I removed the vapor canister to let the charcoal air-out.
The five ports on the canister have identifying labels molded into the plastic, making it easier to hook up properly.
The ‘78 has a bottom lid that’s easily pryed off. A layer of fiberglass keeps the charcoal from leaking out of the air vent at the bottom. I replaced it with nylon mesh material.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 6,821
Likes: 278
From: SE Ohio
I’m not particularly mechanical so I’ll ask, what is the purpose of the charcoal canisters?
I like the cat on the previous post - ok on the hood now, but not so much after paint. I hope he listens.
I like the cat on the previous post - ok on the hood now, but not so much after paint. I hope he listens.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 191
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From: Oregon
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 6,821
Likes: 278
From: SE Ohio
Thanks, I would have never thought about that with the charcoal, but makes sense. I’m down to one cat, spayed female, with more curiosity than she needs. I’m looking forward to see paint go on. You’ve really stuck with this project which has entailed a lot more pieces and sub-assemblies than I would have imagined.