Potential Purchase - feedback b4 I drive
Here's the recap of the car and pics... Have at it and thanks in advance. Anything obvious, not so obvious? (oh and if you want to offer any alternative by all means go ahead, it can't hurt).
1968 Corvette Convertible ! This vehicle received a frame off restoration in 2014 ! Powered by a 327 Cubic inch bored .20 over, Internals are a Comp Cam XR270HR-10 Roller Cam with Roller Rockers as well ! Motor is from 1968 and stamped to match the Vin but not original. Full VBS Performance Suspension, Includes Front and Rear Composite Mono Springs. Front A Frames, Bilstein Gas Shocks, Drilled and slotted rotors, Entire cabin is lined with double foil insulation, A/c System has been converted to a modern day system with all new equipment, The transmission has been converted to a Tremec 5 Speed. Everything on this car works as it should right down to the center console lights that illuminate for Brake, Turn signals, Reverse lights and Seat belt warning, Heck even the buzzer under the hood lets you know that the key is in the ignition. This vehicle drives absolutely great at all speeds and cranks up every time with no issues.
What prep was done to the body before paint? Any evidence of damage? What products were used in the paint process (primers, topcoats, clear, etc)?
Casting numbers/date codes on block, heads, intake/water pump? Date codes on carb, starter, alternator, clutch hub? What kind of clutch? What model of Tremec (e.g. TKO-600)?
What was done to the differential? Gear ratio? Trailing arms/bearings? Who did that work?
Read up on how to inspect the birdcage. This is critical. Assuming the seller is asking a fortune for it, be sure you are able to pull the kick panels and access covers and look at the #2 and #3 mount areas very carefully. Also pull the windshield interior trim and carefully inspect for any signs of rust.
I would take a blunt pick hammer and tap the length of the frame on the bottom and sides where there is any evidence of rust. A solid frame will produce a sharp sound, a soft frame will be muted. These are boxed frames so sandblasting will only clean up the outside. An internally rusted frame is a ticking time bomb. The 68’s also don’t have the additional gussets like the 69s and later so are more prone to sagging. Look at the door gaps by the handles with no one in the car and with two adults sitting to see if they close down any. You can also jack the frame just under the door and see how much they expand.
Missing a bolt on the left hood hinge.
What prep was done to the body before paint? Any evidence of damage? What products were used in the paint process (primers, topcoats, clear, etc)?
Casting numbers/date codes on block, heads, intake/water pump? Date codes on carb, starter, alternator, clutch hub? What kind of clutch? What model of Tremec (e.g. TKO-600)?
What was done to the differential? Gear ratio? Trailing arms/bearings? Who did that work?
Read up on how to inspect the birdcage. This is critical. Assuming the seller is asking a fortune for it, be sure you are able to pull the kick panels and access covers and look at the #2 and #3 mount areas very carefully. Also pull the windshield interior trim and carefully inspect for any signs of rust.
I would take a blunt pick hammer and tap the length of the frame on the bottom and sides where there is any evidence of rust. A solid frame will produce a sharp sound, a soft frame will be muted. These are boxed frames so sandblasting will only clean up the outside. An internally rusted frame is a ticking time bomb. The 68’s also don’t have the additional gussets like the 69s and later so are more prone to sagging. Look at the door gaps by the handles with no one in the car and with two adults sitting to see if they close down any. You can also jack the frame just under the door and see how much they expand.
Missing a bolt on the left hood hinge.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I have a feeling you won't be getting much sleep this weekend.
I hope the inspection goes good.
After searching a long time for my Sea Ray 280, I finally found one that had every option I was looking for (twins, gen, trailer, etc). Finally found one needing some mechanical work in my budget. On the sea trials, I brought my most-boat-knowledged-mechanic buddy and told him, "Please find a reason I should not buy this boat." I knew I could not be impartial on my own. Because it was a large investment, he knew I was serious and combed through everything with even greater detail than a hired surveyor would have.
When we search for these special toys for so long, it is hard to separate the emotion. Just keep your head clear and remember, you found this one. If it is not right, you will find another.
Good luck.
I have a feeling you won't be getting much sleep this weekend.
I hope the inspection goes good.
After searching a long time for my Sea Ray 280, I finally found one that had every option I was looking for (twins, gen, trailer, etc). Finally found one needing some mechanical work in my budget. On the sea trials, I brought my most-boat-knowledged-mechanic buddy and told him, "Please find a reason I should not buy this boat." I knew I could not be impartial on my own. Because it was a large investment, he knew I was serious and combed through everything with even greater detail than a hired surveyor would have.
When we search for these special toys for so long, it is hard to separate the emotion. Just keep your head clear and remember, you found this one. If it is not right, you will find another.
Good luck.
I would not hesitate to look at this one further from what I see.
I would not hesitate to look at this one further from what I see.

I would not hesitate to look at this one further from what I see.

Moreover, the '68 got terrible press reviews when it was released, which prompted Chevrolet to make a bunch of changes for the '69 MY, and continued on through the 70,71,72 years (aside from the lower HP rating in the 71 and 72 - an unwelcome change). As for 327 vs 350 quicker rev capability, that's as simple as a lightened flywheel if you want it to rev faster (at the cost of some street manners) and on top of that, you get an extra 20 ft lbs of torque in the 350. The 350 has a lot more potential, and is better/more streetable than a 327 stock for stock because it doesnt need to rev as high to make the same power - I think you're in the minority here if you think the 68 is better because it has a 327 (basically a de-stroked 350). Post '68, Chevrolet never when back to the 327 for the C3, so that's saying something about the SBC 350.
Would I turn away a 68 L88 if it were given to me? That's a rare '68. There's a reason why you always hear the old adage 'never buy the first production year of a new model', and the '68 Corvette is no exception. This is a beautiful Vette though, for sure. Just a gorgeous color combination, and a seemingly nice restoration.
Last edited by Corvette-ZL1; Jul 7, 2022 at 09:52 AM.
I wish you luck in the search, it's a great color combo, but I'm biased.
Moreover, the '68 got terrible press reviews when it was released, which prompted Chevrolet to make a bunch of changes for the '69 MY, and continued on through the 70,71,72 years (aside from the lower HP rating in the 71 and 72 - an unwelcome change). As for 327 vs 350 rev capability, that's as simple as a lightened flywheel and on top of that, you get an extra 20 ft lbs of torque. The 350 has a lot more potential, and is better/more streetable than a 327 stock for stock - I think you're in the minority here if you think the 68 is better because it has a 327 (basically a de-stroked 350).
Would I turn away a 68 L88 if it were given to me? Heck no, but I'd prefer a '69 L88 with it's improvements. There's a reason why you always hear the old adage 'never buy the first production year of a new model', and the '68 Corvette is no exception. This is a beautiful Vette though, for sure. Just a gorgeous color combination, and a seemingly nice restoration.
Last edited by MitchinSC; Jul 7, 2022 at 10:21 AM. Reason: misspelled
If it runs/drives/brakes as good as it looks, you're in for a treat.
I don't believe I mentioned rare, but they are less common than '69's. The '70 MY of course wins that title. The '69 MY is the least rare of the chrome bumper cars as they had the highest production number built. The '68 one year parts are only an issue if one is seeking a Top Flight cert and need to locate parts. To say parts are not interchangeable with '68s are are incorrect, 69-72 parts will fit but not factory correct. To be honest I have had zero issues finding parts, they are often available just not in the sheer numbers of other years.
327 vs 350 is a personal preference, you are entitled to your opinion and I am mine. A 454 has more protentional than a 427, but I'd also take the 427 over it, your opinion may differ. To each his own.

I do agree with this philosophy on new cars, but cars built 55years ago I will disagree. Most issues of said cars are often alleviated throughout ownership.
Last edited by Corey_68; Jul 7, 2022 at 10:39 AM.






















