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I am wanting to repair the plastic trim that surrounds the rear window on my 77. The plastic on the inside.
Due to it's dimensions shipping a new one overseas is prohibitively expensive.
So, it's a bit warped and cracked in half in 2 places. My thought is to warm it with a heat gun and get it back into proper shape.
But glueing this ridged plastic has been a issue for me. I had tryed super glue on a similar part over the windshield, it held for awhile and then just let go. So super glue clearly isn't the answer.
What have some of you guys used and had success with glueing these plastic interior parts?
epoxies work well enough. they won't seal a radiator tank for that long, but you aren't filling it with boiling water. make a piece that sits under the break if you can. piece of wood or beer can or anything but more plastic. i don't think i would try heat gun welding it.
Well, I have seen JB weld has a plastic epoxy. But there instructions also say not suitable for...... Well, different types of plastics. I am by no means a plastic expert. And have no idea what this trim is made from. I know it's a rigid plastic. That's about all.
So wondering what has worked for others in this area.
i have a plastic pool pump body. i keep forgetting to drain it for winter. freezes and cracks. JB weld it on the inside and it holds for 10 years. and that is with a 1 hp motor putting 15 psi water pressure in it. and when it leaks it still is attached to the pump body. i think virtually any epoxy, even the 1 minute stuff will do the trick.
The whole frame needs to come off and placed on a level & flat workbench. With the exposed side up, tape all broken joints with one-inch bonding tape, such as Gorilla tape, etc to hold the joints perfect while drying later.
Now flip the whole frame up-side-down on bench. Repairs done on the backside are less obvious. Apply adhesive with some type of reinforcement. (I like the paper clip idea).
Next day, sand, grind, file, smooth out any high spots. Then Pre-Drill the Holes.
When using JB Weld, you notice that a smear of black and a smear of white equal gray. With that in mind, adding a few drops of touch-up paint, you may be able to color match the interiors color. Some of that glue may or may not seep through the broken gap.
Because you have to work fairly fast with epoxy, I think I would first start with a test sample with the dye on a piece of scrap vinyl.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Aug 21, 2022 at 10:26 AM.
Had success with old brittle interior trim pieces breaking by first backing it up with a thin gauge piece of metal by using a product called "amazing goop" and for the actual joint itself super glue. Practically invisible repair with a little touch up.
Mine broke in about the same place, i used the gorilla tape as a backer, piece about 4" long cut so it could not be seen.
For the adhesive it was something from Menard's but cant remember the name, it was a two part mixture tho.
I have used a aluminum or fiberglass screen type backer for a few places and either some fiberglass resin or an epoxy (I like Devcon but any good brand should work) There's just not usually enough surface area on the break itself for any strength
Keep in mind that part has probably seen the odd spray or two of armour all type detailer over the years and no adhesive known to man is likely to stick to if if there's even a hint of it left
Clean clean and re-clean with some alcohol or something safe.
On some parts, I've also used a soldering iron (not one of my good ones ) to sort of smear the back side across the break and melt the two parts together for strength.
M
Ok, on brittle plastic, you can actually get really good repairs. You want a glue that will 'melt' or soften the joint to be repaired. The suggestion of using PVC solvent was a good one. Basically, remove the plastic piece. Use an aggressive solvent on each edge to be repaired ..just apply some with a small hair brush (something solvent-safe). You could use pvc primer too. But acetone or lacquer thinner will work too. You might want to apply another application of the solvent. You should feel the edge somewhat soft.
After that, I generally apply some crazy glue (not the gel) to one side of the repair, then put them together. Hold together as long as you can so it fuses together. Set down carefully and let it sit a couple hours. After that it should be nice and strong. This works on hard, brittle plastics, not soft plastics. I've fixed so many kids toys like this over the years ...incl car plastics.
They make a special plastic repair which essentially does the same thing. It's a real strong solvent to 'melt' the plastic joint as the glue is setting. But Super Glue does the same thing. But give the joint a little help by pre-softening up the repair joint with solvent.
Lot's of different answers here. I have tryed super glue as I mentioned in the opening post. Seemed to work well. But a year later, just let go. As if it was never there.
On that panel I recently JB welded it. That panel is very straight, never twisted. So time will tell. I did not put in a reinforcement. Now thinking I should have.
On this trim piece around the rear window, one section is badly twisted. As I said, I am going to try and get it straightened out using a heat gun. But am more than worried it will try to twist again. And if does even a little, a poor bond will certainly let go.
What about this Plastex stuff? anyone here tryed that?
I had same issue, bought new surround, first came cracked from shipping, section packed better.....after installing and driving a few times cracked in 2 places bottom right and top left.
I used JB plastic weld, works great so far about a year of driving has not broken. Has a yellowy tint to it so tape the front side of the moulding.
As others have said need a big flat area to work on since it tends to twist.
Should have been made in 2 pieces, horrible design!
Plastic glue?
) to sort of smear the back side across the break and melt the two parts together for strength.
