Hello all, I am glad I found this forum; I am a newbie to the corvette community and have started my search for the best C3 for everyday use ( I am 12 months away from pulling the trigger). Question: Which C3 has the smoothest ride (I've seen '81-'82 in other posts)? And, can you share the common mistakes shoppers make when buying a restored/refurbished C3? Any feedback is appreciated. - BoilerUp

 

Basically, all C3’s have the same suspension.
The later model years were equipped with a composite rear spring, which made them ride a bit smoother, but you can easily replace the steel spring pack in the earlier model years with an aftermarket composite spring.
A set of good quality shocks will make all the difference in the world.

Don’t get hung up on the need to have a chrome bumper C3 over a rubber bumper one.
You’ll pay $10k or more for those chrome bumpers over a similar quality rubber bumper car.
For some the chrome bumpers are a must have and some prefer the smoother lines on the non chrome bumper cars.

If you plan to modify or increase the performance of a C3, check the emission laws of the state or country where you live.

Do lots and lots of research about rust on the frame and the birdcage and be vigilant about inspecting for rust when you find a C3 you’re interested in buying.

These are classic cars which require more maintenance than a newer car.
Unless you can do your own maintenance or can afford to pay to get it done, Don’t Buy a C3, Any Year, To Use As a Daily Driver!!!

 

Thank you this is helpful

 

I think the most common mistake is not being familiar enough with C3 Corvettes and the model year in particular. If you are wanting a truly restored back to factory, then you have some homework ahead of you. There is a vast difference between early chrome bumper Corvettes and the very late "cowcatcher" bumper Corvettes. Early years were almost entirely mechanically controlled whereas late years had incorporated sensors and chips.

Speaking in C3 generalities, rust in the windshield and roof structure is the #1 buying risk; ver-r-ry expensive and/or time consuming to repair. The next huge expense would be a repaint. Repainting a Corvette far exceeds the cost of an engine/trans/differential rebuild. One great feature of Corvettes in general is that parts are readily available. The exception may be the factory electronics of the late C3s but I believe there are aftermarket components that will keep the car on the road – I don't know this for certain as my knowledge lies in the early years.

 

'72's were the last year for the solid body mounts. In '73 onward they were rubber for a "better" ride.

 

test drove a ‘75 yesterday, while it does not ride like a modern car, i didn’t think it rode too bad…., it was a little rough, but i think that is sort of the charm.
but it’s not as rough as i thought it would be.
honestly, the seats were more comfortable than i remember… it had been 7 years since i last test drove a c3.

i have only ever test driven 75s and up, anything older than that has. been pretty rare in our area

 

You’ve really enlightened me . Thank you pal

 

Pick up a copy of the “Corvette Black Book”. It has a lot of information on C3s in general and most of the details regarding every model year’s changes and option codes with pictures to tell one year from another.

 

Corvettes have always possessed a dual personality, sitting right on the line of comfort and performance. Some folks who could afford them were used to nicer things and wanted a smooth ride; others were looking for something to accelerate hard and throw into corners. Chevrolet had to offer some of both because of the car's reputation on the street. Too cushy wasn't good and too harsh wasn't good either... hard to please both buying segments with one design. I'd think it's much the same with brand new ones too.

 

You have to understand that in 1968-1972, Corvettes were raced and so rode very hard. When the horsepower dropped due to emissions, GM started to make the ride softer. Lou.

 

Since my "hair-pin curve days" are over I cross-referenced a set of Monroe SensaTrac shocks that offered a smooth ride .
The carnow rides almost as smooth as any new car, but you do give up about 30% of the Vette extreme handling in curves (90mph curves are now 60 mph curves).
It works out well for me since I'm aiming for 3 week roads trips around the U.S.A.

Just decide how SMOOTH your definition of SMOOTH is.

 

An aspect not mentioned is seats.
early didn't give you the "glove" feel.

 

C3s also had heavy duty suspension options ("F41" or "Gymkhana" depending on year). I RACE on an F41 suspension (actually called F40 back in '64 -- but the same spring rates). If you want a smooth ride, you should avoid the HD suspension.

 

Thank you for the response. I am not looking for back to factory condition C3 rather a restored/remodeled C3 with updated equipment; engine, shocks, seats, breaks, suspension ect. Any insights you can share with this type of scenario? Thanks again.

 

@OldCarBum is dead on about being prepared to do some maintenance. I bought a '72 about 18 months ago. The PO had it for 20 years and wanted to sell it so he could get a C2. There were some things that needed done but he let go since he was ready to move on. Since I bought it I've done the following:

1. replaced plugs and wires
2. replaced the clutch
3. had the carb rebuilt by @lars
4. replaced timing chain, cover
5. replaced the water pump while we were working on the timing chain
6. had the steering box rebuilt by Bair's Corvette
7. replaced the power steering valve and slave cylinder
8. replaced the rag joint
9. replaced the tires
10. replaced the low beams with Holley Retrobrights
11. replaced the weather stripping

I'm fortunate to have a neighbor who loves to work on cars and has the garage to do it. He saved me a ton of money.
This winter I plan on replacing the carpet and doing some work to cut down the heat in the cockpit.
You need to go into this eyes wide open. These cars are 50 years old and will need parts replaced, especially if you plan to drive the car every day.
I don't regret buying the car. I've wanted one for a long time and the wife and I have done a lot of weekend cruising.
Good luck with your search.

 

There are a million upgrades that can be made, but mostly for higher performance, not a smooth ride. I'm not saying it CAN'T be done, but not usually the ultimate goal...

 

The newest C3 is 40 years old. While the stock comparisons are an interesting exercise, that's a lot of time for a few mods to change the feel of the car, or a few bad bushings to ruin it.

Find a rust-free example with good paint in the color you want, and tune the suspension to your preference. Unless well maintained and regularly driven, any car you buy will likely need every bushing and rubber part replaced anyway. Even with all poly bushings and/or steel heims, stiffer springs than an FE7, and Bilsteins, I wouldn't consider my 80 "harsh".

 

Don’t we have stickies for these questions?

 

Shocks, spring maintenance, tires and tire pressure ...those are all things you can easily change to your likeness on about any corvette you buy.

Shocks make a huge difference. Everyone has their opinions on which is the 'best shock' which usually comes down to whatever they bought & installed, lol. A stiffer mono-tube shock is obviously going to ride rougher than one that's more compliant. The OEM shock was double-acting which most aren't.

If you go by Tom Falconer, who's written several corvette buying and restoration books on C3's (exclusively), he indicates Koni adjustable double-acting shocks (for C3's) are the best and closest to the orignal shocks, and provide the best ride. That's the recommendation from someone who's bought, owned and serviced C3s for many years. It used to be kind of the standard C3 shock recommendation, for a stock shock, or one slightly more aggressive (depending on what setting ya put it on). Of course as soon as I post this 10 guys will tell me I'm wrong. But it's Tom's recommendation (not mine). A lot of guys suggest the AC Delco shock as a very good and smooth riding shock (I haven't tried them). I personally wouldn't buy anything made my Monroe or Gabriel with all the premature shock failures I've had. Then again, there are certain conversion springs where they attempt to match the spring rate and shock dampening. So ...shocks are something you can easily replace on any car you happen to buy, and make it stiffer or 'lighter' riding.

Spring Maintenance: Relieve excessive inter-leaf spring friction can help. Removing built-up rust/debris and adding little lube between the spring ends (on steel springs) where they 'slide' as the wheel goes up/down (or add/replace nylon bushings on spring ends), helps the spring pack move more freely with less harshness. This can be a cheap way to make a C3 ride a little better w/o spending a dime, esp on a car which may never have had any attention paid to the rear spring pack. Fiberglass springs wouldn't need that attention.

Tires too can make a difference as well as tire air pressure.

 

PSU1985 has an impressive list and doing the weatherstrip before the interior makes sense.
Not listed are the new calipers, the front end bushings and ball joints and sooner or later new trailing are bearings and bushings.
C-3s are great cars and can cost lots of money after the purchase.
Are you handy and have a place to do the work?