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I've replaced the front calipers, rotors, and pads. I never opened the master cylinder during the process, so almost no fluid came out of the hoses hanging loose. I didn’t touch the rear calipers at all. The brakes were working perfectly before I removed the front calipers. The reason I replaced the front calipers was because one had a leak between the halves, but other than that, there were no problems. Out of all the C3s I've driven, this one had the best brake functionality.
I just want to check: under these circumstances, would it be enough to just bleed the fronts? Start with the passenger side, then finish with the driver’s side (where the master cylinder is located)?
That kit is wonderful for one or two calipers.
However.
When you open a bleeder screw, do not open entirely. Open just barely enough to start a flow.
The less you open the bleeder, the less likely you will pull air around the threads.
It can be deceiving. You will have no idea if the bubbles are from a leaky bleeder screw or are truly from the caliper's internals.
If the bubbles continue appearing way longer than normal, remove the bleeder screw and apply anti-seize on the threads. Then continue.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Oct 23, 2024 at 09:21 PM.
Motive only recommends opening the bleeder 1/8th of a turn.
As far as doing a quick half *** bleed versus doing a thorough bleed. The hardest part and most time consuming part is getting your tools out and jacking the car up. It never hurts to freshen up your brake fluid system due to the nature of it absorbing water.
Thanks for the replies HeadsU.P., Joey_SS, much appreciated!The reason I want to focus on just the front calipers is that, from what I've read, bleeding the brakes on a C3 is a somewhat delicate process with often mixed results. For that reason, I don't want to interfere with the perfectly functioning rear brakes if it's not necessary. Right now, I just need to get the car running and ready to pass the MOT. It's not the right time to risk messing up the brakes and adding another job to my list, since I'm on a tight schedule with limited time to work on the car. I've had some tough luck with brakes and clutch bleeding in the past, so I'm taking a cautious approach.
That said, I do plan to do a complete brake fluid change next summer or autumn.
Following up: The front brakes were successfully bled with a fluid change in that circuit. I ended up using all the brake fluid I had; there was no point in saving it. The hand pump was ineffective, as you mentioned—it was pulling air around the threads. So, I opted for gravity bleeding and was pleasantly surprised by how quick and straightforward it was! To ensure there was no air left in the system, I even had my wife assist by pressing the brake pedal, and indeed, there was none. This one was easy...
Having read numerous horror stories about the never-ending brake bleeding on C3s, I was preparing for a tough job. It seems I picked all my bad luck with the replacement of bumpers...
Don't celebrate just yet.
Because you touched the pedal, you likely triggered the Proportioning Valve. You had a bleeder open, so the Prop Valve sensed a leak.
The Prop V. can't tell the difference between a guy with a wrench or a hole in a brake line.
Either scenario is a loss of pressure.
This is where that little tool that secures the P.V. piston comes in handy.
Oh fu*k... I've driven the car for approximately 20 miles, tested the brakes, and they seem to be functioning properly. As far as I can tell for a 50-year-old car, that is. The brakes respond well and the pedal feels smooth. How can I diagnose a problem with the proportioning valve?
Oh fu*k... I've driven the car for approximately 20 miles, tested the brakes, and they seem to be functioning properly. As far as I can tell for a 50-year-old car, that is. The brakes respond well and the pedal feels smooth. How can I diagnose a problem with the proportioning valve?
Drive it with confidence. If the valve switch is off-center, your dash light will illuminate. A fix to reset the switch is to depress the pedal very hard a few times.
Unless your future drives reveal the warning light or the brakes behave poorly, consider it a job well done and don't fret it.
Thanks for the reply 67:72, nice to read this! :-) I think that everything is OK. Brakes are working as they should, but I'll keep an eye on them and watch for any irregularities.
For that reason, I don't want to interfere with the perfectly functioning rear brakes if it's not necessary. Right now, I just need to get the car running and ready to pass the MOT. It's not the right time to risk messing up the brakes and adding another job to my list, since I'm on a tight schedule with limited time to work on the car. I've had some tough luck with brakes and clutch bleeding in the past, so I'm taking a cautious approach.
