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I concur. I don't even dread it anymore since I decided to remove the column. It's just another job but of course it's better to give yourself time such that you don't stress about getting it done.
Originally Posted by J.Abbott
Why is it dreaded? It is not that difficult. My advice is to remove the column, you can do this job with just droping the column but it will take you longer and you will have to fight around the steering wheel. If you completely remove the column from the Vette you will have so much more room to work and it really isn't that hard. It is worth the little extra time of removing the column, so take it from someone who is stubborn and usually has to learn the hard way.
Justin
50 year old wiring that won't flex, incredibly delicate dash panels that want to crack down the middle (and cost a fortune to replace), the need for 3 or 4 hands to hold everything *just so* while plugging in fragile bulb sockets and persnickety cables, and the lack of space to maneuver - even with the column and seats out. It is the C3 definition of not-fun.
I had an idea. My speedo still needs to be swapped out. I would love for you to demonstrate how easy this can be! I'll grill you a rib eye and provide the libation of your choice. C'mon down, Mechanicsville isn't that far from Rock Hill!
Steve
Maybe 25 years ago I would have taken you up on that, but now you would have to pay to teach you how to do it. Yes it's all delicate, some worse than others. If your pad is breaking and the wires are breaking when you move them, you need to replace them or make sure you have fire insurance up to date on your Vette. Your right Rockhill is not that far, so if you want to bring your Vette up here, we have a service dept that can tackle anything you need to get done.
50 year old wiring that won't flex, incredibly delicate dash panels that want to crack down the middle (and cost a fortune to replace), the need for 3 or 4 hands to hold everything *just so* while plugging in fragile bulb sockets and persnickety cables, and the lack of space to maneuver - even with the column and seats out. It is the C3 definition of not-fun.
I had an idea. My speedo still needs to be swapped out. I would love for you to demonstrate how easy this can be! I'll grill you a rib eye and provide the libation of your choice. C'mon down, Mechanicsville isn't that far from Rock Hill!
Steve
Maybe 25 years ago I would have taken you up on that, but now you would have to pay to teach you how to do it. Yes it's all delicate, some worse than others. If your pad is breaking and the wires are breaking when you move them, you need to replace them or make sure you have fire insurance up to date on your Vette. Your right Rockhill is not that far, so if you want to bring your Vette up here, we have a service dept that can tackle anything you need to get done.
I am replacing my dash harness with a painless system. I am using the Delphi-Aptive 56 series connectors to consolidate the connections to the dashboard. I plan on doing the same for the center cluster also.
I am replacing my dash harness with a painless system. I am using the Delphi-Aptive 56 series connectors to consolidate the connections to the dashboard. I plan on doing the same for the center cluster also.
My Lectric Limited harness was pretty good. Good diagrams and clarity. Only issue is the headlight switch wires/plug are too short which makes panel installation a bit harder. Haven't extended the wires, but just install that plug last as the panel is right up there ready to be screwed in.
50 year old wiring that won't flex, incredibly delicate dash panels that want to crack down the middle (and cost a fortune to replace), the need for 3 or 4 hands to hold everything *just so* while plugging in fragile bulb sockets and persnickety cables, and the lack of space to maneuver - even with the column and seats out. It is the C3 definition of not-fun.
I had an idea. My speedo still needs to be swapped out. I would love for you to demonstrate how easy this can be! I'll grill you a rib eye and provide the libation of your choice. C'mon down, Mechanicsville isn't that far from Rock Hill!
Steve
I agree 100%. I would not ever attempt to do this again. ANYBODY who tells you that this is a easy project if full of it. You can easily mess up more stuff than you might fix, especially if it doesn't really need to be serviced. Many really good mechanics agree with us.
The sound of 50+ year old fiberglass cracking is a terrible sound.
I just did this last week as part of a Vintage Air install. I definitely invented some new cuss words.
I dropped the column down (manual car), but still managed to crack the saddle part of the dash where it sits over the column. I must have moved the dash in a way that stressed that corner and -- snap! 50 + year old plastic...
So I would second removal of the column completely, as others have said.
When I tear down for the resto-mod in a couple years, I will be doing what 69/70 did, extending the wires and adding connectors. I tip my hat to you sir, that was a smart move.
In fact, I may also be looking for a way to add some length to the speedo and tach cables that can be taken up outside the firewall. Or do a full electric conversion.
Since I was doing a VA install, I only had the center gauge bezel pulled back, not removed. Leaning forward to look behind the dash, guess what...snap went the upper section of the center bezel. So watch out for that.
The other thing I did wrong was I only loosened and lifted the upper dash pad, I didn't remove it (couldn't figure out how). Well, it kept falling back down at the wrong times and the back side of the lower dash scratched the hell out of the bottom lip of the upper dash pad. If anyone has a clever way to disguise those scratches, I'm all ears.
The other thing I did wrong was I only loosened and lifted the upper dash pad, I didn't remove it (couldn't figure out how). Well, it kept falling back down at the wrong times and the back side of the lower dash scratched the hell out of the bottom lip of the upper dash pad. If anyone has a clever way to disguise those scratches, I'm all ears.
For scratches, or complete refinishing of upper dash and dash panels, I used this "dye" which worked well. Looks like new. But, my interior is black, and easier to match than what could be a faded non-black color.
I agree 100%. I would not ever attempt to do this again. ANYBODY who tells you that this is a easy project if full of it. You can easily mess up more stuff than you might fix, especially if it doesn't really need to be serviced. Many really good mechanics agree with us.
The sound of 50+ year old fiberglass cracking is a terrible sound.
Everyone's skills are different. I have done it so many times that it isn't a big deal. However when I have an issue with my computer and it seems impossible to fix, my IT guys comes in here, drinks a cup of coffee and talks to me and a couple of minutes later everything is working perfectly. So hopefully you get my point, but if you are familiar with them and take your time, it is not difficult. It also means that you should not be fixing what you should not be fixing and if the wiring is old and cracking, it needs to be replaced, not figure out how to get it back in place.
I have an automatic and if working on or removing the LH dash pad I loosen the rag joint bolts than remove the LH T top and put a stick across the gap from above the windshield to the above the rear window(suitably padded of course) then I use a ratchet strap looped through the steering wheel and around the stick to support the weight of the steering column I can then remove the bolts holding the column in place (usually loosening the ones through the firewall is sufficient). Then I can lower the column far enough to remove the dash pad without causing any issues.
Hi, Finally going to reinstall the interior panels after a delay. In reviewing this thread, just curious if it makes sense to remove the top dash pad, then screw the drivers and pass panels into the door sides and center console, then reinstall the top dash pad, or if that might make it more difficult. Anyone has experience with trying that?
Removing the top dash panel is a tremendous help, as you can see as you “Try to Place” the hard as steel OEM wiring harness above the speedo and tach. Don’t even think about using the harness retaining clips (on the top of the sped/ tac), it took me 10 seconds to break the 49 year plastic housing. Use a heating pad to warm up the middle of the dash pad if yours is the one that came with the car, You want to lift up the pad in the middle to free the ends. In all honesty, my root canal 10 years ago was less pain than the removal/installation of the drivers cluster. Remove the drivers seat, and by all means go slow, and use a lot of Cuss Words, I made up some new ones that seem to help. Good Luck.
Disconnect the tach and speedo cables from distributor and trans, pull them into the cabin as far as necessary and attach them to the gauges first. When dash is finally in place, then reconnect them to distributor and trans.
I have done it so many times that it isn't a big deal.
I 100% don't agree with this.
This also reminds me of working on my vacuum system years ago, after buying a diagram from a well known dealer, which was not completely accurate, and was copied from another dealer, who later sued my dealer (and won $$) for copying their diagram. Never steal a inaccurate diagram and try to resell it as your own.
OP here with update. Dropped the steering column and wrapped it in rag. Top dash pad is out.
Went to install panel and wouldn't go in. Some pressure on the panel's sharp points on the column, and just issues with getting it in drove decision to pull out the panel and regroup. Next is removal of the column to avoid possible damage.
BUT, does anyone remember how the odometer reset cable routes in a convertible? Do you mount it to the speedo and the bottom of the panel and have it press into the bracing, or do you install it unmounted from the bottom and route it over the brace (as shown) and then down to the hole where it mounts? Thought it came out routed over the brace, but honestly could be wrong.
The YouTube video (bottom) shows the dash going in with the odometer reset cable mounted top and bottom, but then he has trouble getting it seated, which could be the reset cable hitting the brace.
Video where he mounts it and it looks like the odometer cable is pressing against the convertible bracing.
The odometer reset cable on my '69 was one of the major problems I had. I THINK the verts have a additional brace under there that is right in line with the cable.
options
1 delete the cable
2 delete the additional brace
3 bend the brace
4 keep fighting it
Good luck
Or do like, me and leave the rest cable hanging behind the dash panel, unintentionally. It took me about two seconds to decide not to remove the dash panel once I had the dash panel attached. After some extremely loud cussing I was able to unscrew the reset cable from the back of the speedo with a extra long needle nose pliers. With the
F ing brace, there is no way to get the cable attached and routed correctly, without removing the dash panel. I figure the next owner of my convertible can install the reset cable if he wants to tackle a monumental challenge. My trip odometer never worked so I never had to, or could reset the Dam Thing. Good Luck, and thanks for the video, I will save it in my archival files.
With the
F ing brace, there is no way to get the cable attached and routed correctly, without removing the dash panel.
Still hoping someone can confirm if the cable, when installing the panel, goes over the top of the brace indicated in the pic above, or is installed top and bottom on the panel, and just get pressed into the brace and sharply bent down. Anyone recall how it goes?
