Wiring harness suggestions/help
The black wire pictured here is the wire on the ignition coil that gets very hot within 5-10 seconds of the key being switched on.
The red wire that has fresh butt connectors is a section of wire I just added- the previous section had like 3 different butt connectors on it, was practically broken clean off, and the plastic was literally melted off the old butt connectors- the new butt connectors appear burnt too but thats just from me melting the rubber to be weather tight. I replaced the section hoping it was the cause of the issue of the coil only getting 3 volts but it made no difference- this section just takes a little longer to get hot because its a little thicker gauge. Does anyone know what this single pole component is? It resembles a solenoid but it doesn't make sense to me for it to be a solenoid since it just has one stud and has power even with the key off. Was hoping to figure out what this is because I was trying to figure out if the wire that gets hot is apart of the ignition system, or if it shares a common relay or something with the ignition system but I can't find that info anywhere on what it is, what it does etc and the wires being all spliced up doesn't help either. Its mounted to the inside of the driver side fender well.
Edit to add it looks like this car has had a wiring harness previously installed, looks like it was from the zip corvette site as found that exact same harness as whats in the care- not big on it as there is a lot of random plugs and wires not ran to anything, so i'm wondering if its not a great harness, or has options this car doesn't have, or if the harness was poorly installed.
Last edited by nickmigues12; Sep 20, 2023 at 06:00 PM.
How long roughly did it take you to insall? Sounds pretty simple.
Good Luck
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I can tell you this......if you decide to rewire the inside of the car, do yourself a favor and get the kit with modern AGM fuses in it.....the fuse panel is tucked way up in the fenderwell and glass fuses suck to remove when you are upside down on your back......
The engine harness will have wiring for emissions stuff you probably don't have anymore and don't need like the TCS plug.......I opted to cut it all back and cap with shrink for a cleaner look. If you ever want to A/C to work again....get a new plug and relay, the one that mounts to the A/C box in the front.......the engine wiring will not have this stuff in it.......
Off of the horn relay where GM decided to be a good place to split off all of the wiring for the car, I used two AGM fuse holders in lieu of the original fusible links for the Alt sensor wire and the interior power.....make sure you run the Alt. pos. post not only back to the starter lug but to the hot post on the horn relay......
Verify that all of the factory ground straps are there.........this is VERY important.
The A/C switch is easy enough to diagnose if you are not going to replace the interior wiring but you need to verify that it is the wiring or the switch. I recommend buying a Power Probe.....makes life so much easier. The Probe when hooked up can tell you if a wire is hot, if it is a good ground and allows you to shoot 12v to whatever you want to narrow down issues.......one of the best things in my toolbox and can't live without it now.
It really depends on the condition of your wiring right now.........I made the 50 year old wiring in the car work......but this was on the edge of needing a harness......
If you can get your hands on one, the Doc Rebuild wiring schematics are the best there is........they are huge, color coded, and show a pic of every connector in the system that each wire goes to........a must IMHO.......
Jebby
Pat

















