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My '70 C3 was painted in a custom color by the original owner and after trying to match the color (close but not acceptable in my opinion) I have decided to just go ahead and repaint the entire car back to the original Mulsane Blue (as I have been watching on BT and come to the conclusion the original colors fetch more on resale).
Here is my delema, My exhaust is completely welded in so making removing the fuel tank virtually impossible (I have researched this extensively).
My car has a luggage rack which is pitted and I am thinking of patching the holes but obviously I can't get to the underside. I have removed the luggage rack and the old well nuts.
Can holes be effectively be patched from just the top? If so what is the best method?
If you do not patch those holes correctly, from both sides, they will show thru the paint later.
They may show anyway unless done very well.
I am in the same boat and have to fill my luggage rack holes before paint.
But my car also has a huge 45 degree splice in the RR tail that was done 30 years ago, and does not show to this day. So it can be done. It has full length home made bonding strips underneath it, from the center of the RR fenderwell, all the way to the center rear lock on the tail panel. It is a huge splice.
Just bite the bullet now.
Exhaust band clamps.
Get underneath and do it right.
If you do not patch those holes correctly, from both sides, they will show thru the paint later.
They may show anyway unless done very well.
I am in the same boat and have to fill my luggage rack holes before paint.
But my car also has a huge 45 degree splice in the RR tail that was done 30 years ago, and does not show to this day. So it can be done. It has full length home made bonding strips underneath it, from the center of the RR fenderwell, all the way to the center rear lock on the tail panel. It is a huge splice.
Just bite the bullet now.
Exhaust band clamps.
Get underneath and do it right. Band clamps
That's what I was afraid of. I have already correctly resolved any and all delamination issues but none of these were holes. My past experience in patching holes or large cracks has always been from first making a bonding strip to the underside then after sanding the outer side surface to the bare glass adding resin to the crack/hole to the outside and filling the hole with resin saturated fiberglass strand prior to adding a patch to the outside. I just thought someone might have a trick of the trade they could share.
Looks like I will be searching for a rechrome service to plate my original rack since all the aftermarket ones have different mounting hole dimensions.
My '70 C3 was painted in a custom color by the original owner and after trying to match the color (close but not acceptable in my opinion) I have decided to just go ahead and repaint the entire car back to the original Mulsane Blue (as I have been watching on BT and come to the conclusion the original colors fetch more on resale).
Here is my delema, My exhaust is completely welded in so making removing the fuel tank virtually impossible (I have researched this extensively).
My car has a luggage rack which is pitted and I am thinking of patching the holes but obviously I can't get to the underside. I have removed the luggage rack and the old well nuts.
Can holes be effectively be patched from just the top? If so what is the best method?
My experience, you have to get something underneath. You will have to sand and rough it up for a fiberglass patch to adhere from the bottom. Don't believe you can do this with Bondo. Further you need to give the patch sometime to heal and harden or there will later be a noticeable depression. Even then you may not get a perfectly flat surface.
My experience, you have to get something underneath. You will have to sand and rough it up for a fiberglass patch to adhere from the bottom. Don't believe you can do this with Bondo. Further you need to give the patch sometime to heal and harden or there will later be a noticeable depression. Even then you may not get a perfectly flat surface.
Bite the bullet and break out the SawZall
Originally Posted by ignatz
Don't believe you can do this with Bondo.
Absolutely Never use bondo on fiberglass for repairs. Use VPA for repairs and only use Fiberglass Reinforced Bondo as a very thin final surfacing product.
Regarding cutting off the exhaust system, dropping the gas tank then patching the proper way and reinstalling everything. I think based on a ROI for my time and expense, I will just have the rack rechomed buy a new stainless mounting hardware kit and reinstall it. Thanks for the feedback.
I can tell you how to patch the holes correctly and easily from the outside using short strand Everglass...
Let me know if you are interested...
But I have also seen people remove the rack and plug the holes with plastic plugs from Lowes...
I think it takes a 9/16 plug...
They are black plastic. but I have seen people paint them body color...