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Timing Chain Replacement

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Old Jan 2, 2024 | 09:05 PM
  #21  
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You misunderstood. Oil Pan Stud Kit. So much easier.
Studs go into the block, you align the oil pan with the studs with one hand, then start a nut onto the stud with your other hand. No more trying to find the threaded holes in the block.
The kits are around $25.

The distributor does not need to be removed. As stated before, when you drop the oil pump the shaft will drop also. Reinstalling the shaft / pump is just as easy.
You are trying to make this harder than it is. The pump shaft will align with the dizzy, eventually. May have to turn the pump shaft a smidge. Easy peevy.

What was your oil pressure currently, do you know?

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 2, 2024 at 09:11 PM.
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Old Jan 2, 2024 | 10:46 PM
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Looks good.
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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
You misunderstood. Oil Pan Stud Kit. So much easier.
Studs go into the block, you align the oil pan with the studs with one hand, then start a nut onto the stud with your other hand. No more trying to find the threaded holes in the block.
The kits are around $25.

The distributor does not need to be removed. As stated before, when you drop the oil pump the shaft will drop also. Reinstalling the shaft / pump is just as easy.
You are trying to make this harder than it is. The pump shaft will align with the dizzy, eventually. May have to turn the pump shaft a smidge. Easy peevy.

What was your oil pressure currently, do you know?
Pressure is very good, no issues there. I get it, just turn the shaft until it drops in. Never done it before, but that sounds right.
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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jpatrick62
I take it that to replace the oil pump shaft I should remove the distributor first, correct? Not an issue as I've replaced distributors before - I was assuming that getting that shaft key in the exact location (relative to the distro shaft key) it was before hand would be almost impossible. I would just mark the location of the rotor (pointing at #6 now that I moved the cam and crank marks on top of each other) and then replace the distributor to the same location.
NO!!!

This job is done from the bottom, while you have the oil pan off. You remove the oil pump from the rear main bearing cap, by loosening/removing the one retaining bolt. The drive shaft usually drops down along with the pump. Remove the shaft and plastic coupler from the pump, set the new shaft in place, on the pump, then slide the pump and driveshaft back up through the main cap, and if necessary, turn it a little bit, until the slot in the driveshaft engages in the tang on the bottom of the distributor shaft. Reinstall the bolt that holds the pump in place, then proceed with reinstalling the oil pan.
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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 08:19 AM
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When almost done, Oil Pump Bolt gets 60 - 70 ft lbs torque.
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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 11:39 AM
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Is it just me, or do the teeth on that crank gear in the close up on post #4 look messed up a bit? Can't see the teeth faces on the cam gear.
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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Hopper12
Is it just me, or do the teeth on that crank gear in the close up on post #4 look messed up a bit? Can't see the teeth faces on the cam gear.
The teeth do seem to have a "rough cut" finish, along the outer edges......
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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 01:46 PM
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I recommend for $6 getting an oil pump stud and torquing it to 45-50ft/lbs. with moly.

Jebby
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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
I recommend for $6 getting an oil pump stud and torquing it to 45-50ft/lbs. with moly.

Jebby

Not a bad idea..........
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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 03:34 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
The teeth do seem to have a "rough cut" finish, along the outer edges......
Mr. jpatrick62,

Did you opt out on changing the crank sprocket? Perhaps you don't have a gear puller?
The crank sprocket looks used. Looks like chain link wear marks on the sprocket.
And somebody center-punched the dot . . . .twice!

Maybe it's just me, but the chain still seems to have a lot of slop for being brand new.
Often times that is an indication that the block was aligned-bored at one time. That machining process raises the center line of the crank, ever so slightly.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 3, 2024 at 04:16 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Mr. jpatrick62,

Did you opt out on changing the crank sprocket? Perhaps you don't have a gear puller?
The crank sprocket looks used. Looks like chain link wear marks on the sprocket.
And somebody center-punched the dot . . . .twice!

Maybe it's just me, but the chain still seems to have a lot of slop for being brand new.
Often times that is an indication that the block was aligned-bored at one time. That machining process raises the center line of the crank, ever so slightly.
Interesting observation!

I'm not 100% sure, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that Cloyes made a timing set, or just a chain, that was 0.010-0.020" shorter, for those "special occasions".

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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
And somebody center-punched the dot . . . .twice!

Maybe it's just me, but the chain still seems to have a lot of slop for being brand new.
post #4 looks like the "dots" have a bit of white paint in them and its smudged on the top face....



and yes, the chain does appear to be a little loose for a new chain.
I just replaced a chain on a friends '79 a few months ago and it was much tighter than that.

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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 06:52 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Interesting observation!

I'm not 100% sure, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that Cloyes made a timing set, or just a chain, that was 0.010-0.020" shorter, for those "special occasions".
Yes, I believe they are special order for align-bore cases. Seems to me they were 0.100 shorter. Not quite an 1/8.
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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 10:19 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
NO!!!

This job is done from the bottom, while you have the oil pan off. You remove the oil pump from the rear main bearing cap, by loosening/removing the one retaining bolt. The drive shaft usually drops down along with the pump. Remove the shaft and plastic coupler from the pump, set the new shaft in place, on the pump, then slide the pump and driveshaft back up through the main cap, and if necessary, turn it a little bit, until the slot in the driveshaft engages in the tang on the bottom of the distributor shaft. Reinstall the bolt that holds the pump in place, then proceed with reinstalling the oil pan.
Thanks for clarifying that for me!
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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 10:22 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by riverracer au
post #4 looks like the "dots" have a bit of white paint in them and its smudged on the top face....



and yes, the chain does appear to be a little loose for a new chain.
I just replaced a chain on a friends '79 a few months ago and it was much tighter than that.
My fault - should have made that clearer. That is a pic of the old chain, haven't yet replaced it with the DR timing chain yet. I just wanted to see if the alignment was correct before I started.
And I filled in the alignment dots to make it easier to see.
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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 10:26 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Mr. jpatrick62,

Did you opt out on changing the crank sprocket? Perhaps you don't have a gear puller?
The crank sprocket looks used. Looks like chain link wear marks on the sprocket.
And somebody center-punched the dot . . . .twice!

Maybe it's just me, but the chain still seems to have a lot of slop for being brand new.
Often times that is an indication that the block was aligned-bored at one time. That machining process raises the center line of the crank, ever so slightly.
My fault - should have made that clearer. That is a pic of the old timing chain (which shows the slop). I have yet to replace it - just wanted to ensure the alignment was correct (dot to dot) so the
process was easier. You are very observant - that old chain had a ton of slop which was causing the timing mark to leap around when I tried to time the engine.
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Old Jan 4, 2024 | 08:54 AM
  #37  
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Just a note here about inconsistent timing marks.
Some timing lights can not read some HEI systems. The flash may black-out or even move the timing marks.
Nothing to be concerned about, it's just how some timing lights are.
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Old Jan 4, 2024 | 11:13 AM
  #38  
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Hi jpatrick62, just checking in on the gear set shown in post #4 as a close up. I'm not certain if you're planning on replacing the gear set or not (unless I missed it?) - but I sure would. There is wear showing on the crank gear, and there probably is on the cam gear as well. Quality double roller sets aren't really that expensive and you have it all apart anyway. Just checking. Best, Paul
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Old Jan 4, 2024 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Hopper12
Hi jpatrick62, just checking in on the gear set shown in post #4 as a close up. I'm not certain if you're planning on replacing the gear set or not (unless I missed it?) - but I sure would. There is wear showing on the crank gear, and there probably is on the cam gear as well. Quality double roller sets aren't really that expensive and you have it all apart anyway. Just checking. Best, Paul
Yes, I am planning on replacing the gears with a DR timing chain set. I'll have pics of this after I do the replacement. I sent the 8" balancer (l46) out to CA to get rebuilt, and I have a new water pump as well. I also plan on replacing the oil pump shaft since the oil pan is off. Never did the job before, but so far, so good.
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Old Jan 4, 2024 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
Yes, I believe they are special order for align-bore cases. Seems to me they were 0.100 shorter. Not quite an 1/8.
I didn't realize that the chains were that much shorter, but it appears that we're on the same page.
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