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Hi,
I have a '69 convertible with a 4spd. Was originally a 427, now a 454. I want to pull the motor and tranny to rebuild motor as it is way too slow for a BB and work on the open underside of the car. The car is up about 16 inches on my quick jacks and I'm wondering if I can pull the trans while elevated and then drop the car down to pull the motor? I've never pulled a big block before and never pulled a motor from a C3, only a C2 I owned and rebuilt that one years ago. I've tried to find videos online but no big block removals.
It's not much different pulling a big block, just not as much side to side room, as a small block. The C3 feels as though it has a little less wiggle room but it's all the same process. You can certainly drop the trans, then pull the engine. Some folks lift both out at the same time but it's a little more challenging to do that. (I pulled my 454/TH400 separately but reinstalled as a unit.) To pull an engine from a C3, you can't do it from the nose unless you have an extra-long arm on your hoist. Standard & long-arm hoists have to come in from the sides.
One other tidbit: You'll want to remove the radiator and shroud. Easiest way is to pull out the entire core support with radiator still in it — the hoist is handy for this. then pull out the shroud. It fits around the upper A-arms so doesn't come out without a huge struggle when the radiator's in place.
Thanks for that...the radiator and shroud are out as well as the radiator support and hood is removed so I have plenty of room up front. I see that from the side is the way it's done as you said. Do I need to support the engine somehow when removing the trans or will it be ok on it's own? Looks like I need to tilt the front of the engine up to get the trans out but I wonder if the mounts can hold it once the trans is removed?
A lot less nerve racking to separate the trans from the motor and just having the engine bouncing around over-top of the fender on it's own. Get a leveler and definitely do yourself a favor and remove / move the rad support
I left the trans in the car. Then I just slipped the engine forward and left the trans in place. It needed a jack under it, until I could park a 2*4 under the input shaft to the frame rails to hold it.
I had major concerns about height in my 9.'2" garage ceiling and getting the hoist up high enough, even from the side, to get the oil pan over the fender and the hoist not hit the ceiling. It was all kind of tight. I even removed the left front wheel, and lowered the car almost down to the rotor. I had a leveling attachment on there which almost made it all too tall. But it all worked.
Boy wish I had a couple helpers! Managed to do it as a one man show. But that 600# lump bouncing over the fiberglass was nerve racking.
Last edited by leigh1322; Jan 22, 2024 at 11:10 PM.
Cool pic...glad I'm not going to be in the bay like that though...! I pulled the support so it's all open up front. Is yours a stick and did you have to brace the trans to pull the motor and leave it in there?
It's an automatic. The trans was already in the car when the engine was going back in there but it's been out a few times with the engine in place (including last summer) The removable crossmember makes it possible.
The 2 upper bellhousing bolts are a bit of a trick to get to but everything else is pretty easy
M
Interesting on the 2x4 idea. Maybe I can do that while it's up in the air and then drop down to pull the engine for overhead clearance... Looks like you were elevated for the whole thing? Also, how did you post the photo? I tried and it just made an attachment...
If you pull the trans first you definetly need to support the engine or it will tip back untill your dist hits the firewall. If your dist is already out I'm not sure how much farther it will tilt but either way it won't be good for the motor mounts. If you pull the motor first you can run a 2x4 across the frame to hold the tranny up.
Pat
We pulled my 427 with bell housing attached after removing hood, radiator, shroud and tranny. Had to have an extension on the hoist and jack up the rear end to clear the radiator support.
Going back in the tranny was attached. Put the rear on ramps and removed front wheels, placing the frame on jack stands just behind the front wheel openings. Supported the front clip in both corners. Came in over the psgr fender. That thing slid right in and bolted right up to the engine mounts and tail shaft mount.
Bottom line...it was much easier to just hook up the driveshaft and not have to deal with the 4 spd or the clutch or centering the bellhousing while laying on your back.
<snip> Going back in the tranny was attached. Put the rear on ramps and removed front wheels, placing the frame on jack stands just behind the front wheel openings. Supported the front clip in both corners. Came in over the psgr fender. That thing slid right in and bolted right up to the engine mounts and tail shaft mount.
Bottom line...it was much easier to just hook up the driveshaft and not have to deal with the 4 spd or the clutch or centering the bellhousing while laying on your back.
.
Agreed. I would not want to try to line up the trans input shaft / clutch while the motor was "swinging"
The easiest way back together, is of course, to pull the BODY. LOL!
Going back in as one engine-trans unit is the most logical, but likely requires raising the rear, ala shelby, if using a floor hoist.
Or make the crossmember removeable, then a later trans installation is much less problematic.
It's not much different pulling a big block, just not as much side to side room, as a small block. The C3 feels as though it has a little less wiggle room but it's all the same process. You can certainly drop the trans, then pull the engine. Some folks lift both out at the same time but it's a little more challenging to do that. (I pulled my 454/TH400 separately but reinstalled as a unit.) To pull an engine from a C3, you can't do it from the nose unless you have an extra-long arm on your hoist. Standard & long-arm hoists have to come in from the sides.
One other tidbit: You'll want to remove the radiator and shroud. Easiest way is to pull out the entire core support with radiator still in it — the hoist is handy for this. then pull out the shroud. It fits around the upper A-arms so doesn't come out without a huge struggle when the radiator's in place.
If you remove the core support, does that cause the nose to droop? What supports the front fenders?
There was no effect that I could see as a result of removing the core support. I certainly wouldn't put any weight on them though. I have gutted it from the front of the engine to the nose. I went out and lifted the nose and there is about 1/2 inch play. The fenders rest on the frame rails so if the front sagged it was minimal. I also added some pics of my solution to riveting the front cross support to the body. Yes I know that many will cringe, but using stainless #10 flathead screws with washers and nylon lock nuts was a quick and easy way to re-attach instead of buying the aluminum rivets and the tool needed to install. This is not a car that will ever be judged, so I went for an easy out. I had to remove it to repair the fiberglass on the corners as they had both been lightly hit by whomever I bought the car from. I'm also adding Vintage Air and I'm probably going to stroke and FiTech the engine along with the thousands I've spent in new parts to spruce her up. I still haven't come up with my plan on removing the trans and then engine, but after reading the responses, I think I'm going to buy a gantry and attach the engine, then drop the trans and then lower the car and the gantry will be holding the engine in place. My other thought is to put the car back down on the ground and pull the engine and leave the bell housing on the trans like Pat did so I can brace it. Then lift it back up and pull the trans. That would cost $1,000 less than buying a gantry!
Last edited by Jstam427; Jan 24, 2024 at 05:06 PM.
Reason: Added Content
If you remove the core support, does that cause the nose to droop? What supports the front fenders?
Originally Posted by Jstam427
There was no effect that I could see as a result of removing the core support. I certainly wouldn't put any weight on them though. I have gutted it from the front of the engine to the nose. I went out and lifted the nose and there is about 1/2 inch play.
Drooping is not an issue — the body is supported by the other components in the front. As Jstam427 replied, the nose can be lifted a small bit, but is restricted from drooping. My support was removed for 6 months or more and there were no problems reinstalling it.
Big Block Removal Help
