I have owned my 70 for about 10 years now. I bought it in very nice condition but it always had some issues that needed to be sorted out. These issues did not stop me from driving and enjoying it. So what's wrong? I was almost embarrassed to tell people other than my close friends that the fuel gauge, temp gauge, dash lights, horn, interior lights, windshield wipers did not work. My clutch switch broke and I have had that jumped out for a few years. When I bought it I was working full time and had other projects and obligations that all took my time, and did not want dig into the car and risk having it sit like so many projects do. So now I am retired and decided to go for it.

So far I found that the gas gauge had no ground, my temp gauge needs a sender, the dash lights need a new headlight switch, the lights in the foot wells have no bulbs I'm not sure why yet, I have the clutch switch and have to put it in. Overall the wiring is in good shape so I don't need a harness. A bonus is the now exposed upper birdcage is super solid.
a couple of questions
Where should I get a good headlight switch?
I heard the best temp sender is from Letric Limited, correct?
How does the seat belt light work? It lights up but the button does not turn it off.

 

The best light switch is going to be a new old stock. You can get them on eBay or at shows. You may be able to rebuild your old switch. Usually they are just dirty. If you have to by a repo switch, Letric Limited makes a decent replacement. Jerry

 

I'll agree with the idea, but offer an alternative.

If you convert to electric headlight servos, and add relays to the headlight circuits, you can get away with a cheap reproduction switch AND have brighter and more reliable headlights. You won't be using the vacuum portion anymore, and you'll only be passing signal levels of current. This is especially true if you convert the rest of your bulbs to LED.

There are a lot of caveats to this advice, and the LED and electric servo solutions are somewhat involved, but eliminating vacuum hoses is worthwhile, if you are comfortable with electronics.

 

Bikespace, As much of a PITA the vacuum system is this car should stay stock. On my original headlight switch I found a broken section on the rheostat that dims the dash lights. I tried to bend the "spring" to touch the next area to skip the bad section, it worked but it was starting to glow red hot in that area, so I'm not going with that.

 

Then another NOS switch is likely your best option. You could also bypass the dimmer switch, and have it controlled elsewhere.

You can add relays for the headlights (just the bulbs), without changing much of anything, and that can easily be reverted back to stock (dim) if you want. That will greatly reduce the current through your stock headlight switch.

 

Original equipment is much better than any of the aftermarket switches.
Try reaching out to Jim, member ID:70's Vette Guy for a good used switch. I've dealt with him many times, super nice guy and very fair.

 

The only headlight switch worth your time is an OEM Delco New-Old-Stock.

New switches made in you-can-guess-where will function but in my case, even with a switch from the reputable Lectric Limited, the draw from the headlights would trip the circuit breaker in the switch so the lights would just flash on and off.

Highbeam and Lowbeam relay setups resolved my issue.

 

Eljay
I would suggest removing that steering column. Don't want to damage that fragile fiberglass when reassembling. It's easy and well worth the extra steps. Not only that it will give you more room to work ..... I cracked mine and had to repair it.... finally learned my lesson and now remove the steering column.

Let me look and see where I got my replacement headlight switch. Not sure how much the info will be worth since it was decades ago....but it was aftermarket.

Well....I'll be dipped. I got it from Mid America Corvette in October 2003.... it's cheaper now than then! (40 bucks vs 50 bucks). I'd say it's just fine having worked for 20+years.

https://www.mamotorworks.com/corvett...m-valve-606228

SINCE you are retired with all the time in the world here are some more suggestions:
1. Don't toss that temp sender. Not sure why you think it is bad but you may just need an adjustable resistor on the back of your gauge. Mine was reading low for decades and I bought the adjustable resistor from Willcox (no longer around but other outfits sell the adjustable resistor) and now it works like a dream and tracks about perfectly with a separate digital temp reader.

2. IF you ever plan to go back in there (I've been in mine at least a dozen time in 39 years) then I also suggest extending the 2 different side leads (speedo & tach side) and soldering in some connectors. Makes it easy install and remove by just unplugging. It also lets you tuck everything in nicely and THEN plugging things in. It also lets you test things before installation.

3. While you are in there you can also install better plastic dash light assemblies with their own grounds that won't fail out, fall in, or drop the bulbs.....and go to LED bulbs---- or do like me and go to LED strip lighting.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-and-tach.html

 

The update, I got the clutch switch in. What an ordeal, something that should take 30 minutes took 4 hours.
I ordered a NOS headlight switch.
Carriljc, the temp gauge never worked since I owned the car. It it getting power and twitches slightly when the car is turned on but will go about halfway when the lead to the sender is grounded. From what I'm seeing on a few vids on Youtube that points to a bad sender. Is the adjustable resistor you are talking about replace the resistor across the two lugs behind the gauge? From what I'm hearing the Letric Limited sender is accurate where standard parts store senders are not.
Still looking for info on the seatbelt light, it goes on but the button does not turn it off.

 

x2
My sw was cooked so I got a repro. Interior worked, reostat worked, vacuum worked, low beams worked... high beams were a disco ball. Bought relays from MAD electric, solved the problem.

 

Well I think I have most of my issues resolved. I installed the new temp sender from Letric Limited today and need to start the reassembly. Once I get the driver side put together I can run the car to see if it works. So a couple questions remain.

This tandem orange wire with two blue plugs, it was not attached to any thing when I took it apart and I can't find it on my wiring diagram, what does it go to?

And this condenser looking device, it looks like it was spliced in. What do you think it is? Is it factory? and do I need it?
Thanks

 

Just saw this.
After you hook up your new sender I reckon we'll have some direct feedback on accuracy. If it is appropriately calibrated for the gauge scale then even if it is OFF you can put in the adjustable resistor (yes, backside of the temp gauge) to dial it in. I'll go find the link where dialed mine in and even tested a "suggested" sender (which didn't track worth a good g*dd*m f*ck.... but we learned something).
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html

 

The condenser looking device is a condenser, and is factory-installed. The blue connectors shouldn’t have black paint on them, but they are factory!

 

I'm cringing looking at your center gauge cluster hanging like that. BE VERY GENTLE / CAREFUL not to break it, it's very fragile & doesn't take to much to snap it in the corners !!!

 

If you haven't yet resolved the headlamp switch issue, I'll provide a different "take" on that one. The problem with the original is that they designed the entire headlamp current to be provided by that switch. Over time, the contacts gain corrosion/resistance and the switch can generate heat from the 'lost' current in that circuit. I suggest digging into the original switch, cleaning the contacts and re-assembling. BUT, when installing, also install a good quality high current (50 amp) circuit breaker in the circuit so that only switching current flows thru the headlamp switch. That way, it will last forever and if you ever have any problems, you only need to replace the breaker.
P.S. Put the breaker near the lamps on the interior of the engine compartment.

 

7T1 I did get the NOS headlight switch so that is resolved in the stock configuration for now but may look into a relay setup in the future.
427 Sixpack I know how fragile that bezel is, one side was already broken when I took it out!

 

I have a few repair pics in my tthread for the broken part...the screws are fine-thread small machine screws....the repair is not noticeable from the front once the bezel is repainted.




approx. page 336 in my thread...

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1606416531

 

Doorgunner, the repair looks good, I was thinking of something similar, thanks

 

IF you get brave....you can make a "splint" for the unbroken side of the bezel to beef it up.
I think the members said that applying too much pressure to the assembly when reinstalling it is what breaks the bezel.
Trying to stuff it into its original location can be a problem.