Starter overheating problems
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
Starter overheating problems
With headers in the hot summer there is always a problem with a standard starter not starting again after even a short drive. With a big block engine it's worse. Does using stock exhaust manifolds completely eliminate the problem of not restarting on a really hot day for either size engine? thx
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
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Stock starter, factory heat shield for the starter. Factory manifold and exhaust system.
No troubles whatsoever for me in over 47 years.
Perhaps other's can share their experiences.
No troubles whatsoever for me in over 47 years.
Perhaps other's can share their experiences.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Are you referring to Cranks / No start?
No Crank?
Huge difference.
Obviously, the exhaust manifold only has one "down-pipe" as opposed to four header pipes per bank of cylinders.
However, all eight, thin-steel header tubes cool at a faster rate than the bulk of iron manifolds.
And that I assume is your issue, hot starts. Or lack of.
The disadvantage of headers is the route they take right up next to the starter.
As far as heat next to the starter, there should be a shield in place to deflect excess heat.
If not, numerous shields or blankets / wraps are available to protect the starter.
The starter itself can handle a lot of heat. The solenoid however, not so much. And 90% of the time the starter is fine, the solenoid is toast.
A couple solutions is look at an insulating starter wrap sold at Summit Racing, that covers the solenoid too.
The other solution is to remove the starters solenoid and replace with a Heavy-Duty unit. The end cap will be brown in color indicating its ceramic and able to handle heat much better.
And of course, there are the mini starters. Cooler, lighter, durable, but pricey.
No Crank?
Huge difference.
Obviously, the exhaust manifold only has one "down-pipe" as opposed to four header pipes per bank of cylinders.
However, all eight, thin-steel header tubes cool at a faster rate than the bulk of iron manifolds.
And that I assume is your issue, hot starts. Or lack of.
The disadvantage of headers is the route they take right up next to the starter.
As far as heat next to the starter, there should be a shield in place to deflect excess heat.
If not, numerous shields or blankets / wraps are available to protect the starter.
The starter itself can handle a lot of heat. The solenoid however, not so much. And 90% of the time the starter is fine, the solenoid is toast.
A couple solutions is look at an insulating starter wrap sold at Summit Racing, that covers the solenoid too.
The other solution is to remove the starters solenoid and replace with a Heavy-Duty unit. The end cap will be brown in color indicating its ceramic and able to handle heat much better.
And of course, there are the mini starters. Cooler, lighter, durable, but pricey.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
Are you referring to Cranks / No start?
No Crank?
Huge difference.
Obviously, the exhaust manifold only has one "down-pipe" as opposed to four header pipes per bank of cylinders.
However, all eight, thin-steel header tubes cool at a faster rate than the bulk of iron manifolds.
And that I assume is your issue, hot starts. Or lack of.
The disadvantage of headers is the route they take right up next to the starter.
and yes all I get is one click when trying to start and then waiting sometime 6 hours for it to cool down enough to start again normally.
As far as heat next to the starter, there should be a shield in place to deflect excess heat.
If not, numerous shields or blankets / wraps are available to protect the starter.
The starter itself can handle a lot of heat. The solenoid however, not so much. And 90% of the time the starter is fine, the solenoid is toast.
A couple solutions is look at an insulating starter wrap sold at Summit Racing, that covers the solenoid too.
The other solution is to remove the starters solenoid and replace with a Heavy-Duty unit. The end cap will be brown in color indicating its ceramic and able to handle heat much better.
And of course, there are the mini starters. Cooler, lighter, durable, but pricey.
No Crank?
Huge difference.
Obviously, the exhaust manifold only has one "down-pipe" as opposed to four header pipes per bank of cylinders.
However, all eight, thin-steel header tubes cool at a faster rate than the bulk of iron manifolds.
And that I assume is your issue, hot starts. Or lack of.
The disadvantage of headers is the route they take right up next to the starter.
and yes all I get is one click when trying to start and then waiting sometime 6 hours for it to cool down enough to start again normally.
As far as heat next to the starter, there should be a shield in place to deflect excess heat.
If not, numerous shields or blankets / wraps are available to protect the starter.
The starter itself can handle a lot of heat. The solenoid however, not so much. And 90% of the time the starter is fine, the solenoid is toast.
A couple solutions is look at an insulating starter wrap sold at Summit Racing, that covers the solenoid too.
The other solution is to remove the starters solenoid and replace with a Heavy-Duty unit. The end cap will be brown in color indicating its ceramic and able to handle heat much better.
And of course, there are the mini starters. Cooler, lighter, durable, but pricey.
So maybe wrapping both the starter and the pipes that are closest to it may do the trick. I haven't heard of wrapping a starter but that I'm sure could help!
Last edited by CiCiC3; Sep 6, 2024 at 10:16 PM. Reason: continuing to answer
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
Are you referring to Cranks / No start?
No Crank?
Huge difference.
Obviously, the exhaust manifold only has one "down-pipe" as opposed to four header pipes per bank of cylinders.
However, all eight, thin-steel header tubes cool at a faster rate than the bulk of iron manifolds.
And that I assume is your issue, hot starts. Or lack of.
The disadvantage of headers is the route they take right up next to the starter.
As far as heat next to the starter, there should be a shield in place to deflect excess heat.
If not, numerous shields or blankets / wraps are available to protect the starter.
The starter itself can handle a lot of heat. The solenoid however, not so much. And 90% of the time the starter is fine, the solenoid is toast.
A couple solutions is look at an insulating starter wrap sold at Summit Racing, that covers the solenoid too.
The other solution is to remove the starters solenoid and replace with a Heavy-Duty unit. The end cap will be brown in color indicating its ceramic and able to handle heat much better.
And of course, there are the mini starters. Cooler, lighter, durable, but pricey.
No Crank?
Huge difference.
Obviously, the exhaust manifold only has one "down-pipe" as opposed to four header pipes per bank of cylinders.
However, all eight, thin-steel header tubes cool at a faster rate than the bulk of iron manifolds.
And that I assume is your issue, hot starts. Or lack of.
The disadvantage of headers is the route they take right up next to the starter.
As far as heat next to the starter, there should be a shield in place to deflect excess heat.
If not, numerous shields or blankets / wraps are available to protect the starter.
The starter itself can handle a lot of heat. The solenoid however, not so much. And 90% of the time the starter is fine, the solenoid is toast.
A couple solutions is look at an insulating starter wrap sold at Summit Racing, that covers the solenoid too.
The other solution is to remove the starters solenoid and replace with a Heavy-Duty unit. The end cap will be brown in color indicating its ceramic and able to handle heat much better.
And of course, there are the mini starters. Cooler, lighter, durable, but pricey.
So maybe wrapping both the starter and the pipes that are closest to it may do the trick. I haven't heard of wrapping a starter but that I'm sure could help!
Yes all I get is one click when starting and usually takes about 6 hours before it cools enough to start again regularly.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Somethings not right here. Six hrs to cool down and crank?
You have other issue going on.
Poor GRD somewhere. Corrosion of cables.
Low amperage from Batt.
Faulty safety switch. Etc, etc, etc.
You have other issue going on.
Poor GRD somewhere. Corrosion of cables.
Low amperage from Batt.
Faulty safety switch. Etc, etc, etc.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
its grounded to the engine and the battery is brand new. I’ll ask my mechanic tomorrow about it when I take it in for some brake work. Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Virginia
What is your timing set to? That might matter for an extra 30 minutes.
At 6 hours to cool down, @HeadsU.P. is right, there's something else going on.
At 6 hours to cool down, @HeadsU.P. is right, there's something else going on.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
A brand-new battery, fresh off the shelf, paid big bucks, fully charged for several hours.
How good is it? Tons of cranking amps? Great voltage? No!
Its only as good as the cables / terminals / connections that draw from it.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Sep 7, 2024 at 07:55 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
What is your timing set to? That might matter for an extra 30 minutes.
At 6 hours to cool down, @HeadsU.P. is right, there's something else going on.
At 6 hours to cool down, @HeadsU.P. is right, there's something else going on.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
You have two different terms going on here. Cam company recommended IGN timing?
And Total IGN Timing (no vac) should be close to 36, but not written in stone.
Seems to be some confusion and that will be a direct reason for poor performance.
And Total IGN Timing (no vac) should be close to 36, but not written in stone.
Seems to be some confusion and that will be a direct reason for poor performance.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
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From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Go with a mini gear starter. If you have a heat soak issue it can over come that usually. A small heat blanket is all mine needs. I have a big block and headers with 11:1 compression.
As always verify you engine to frame grounds and your battery to frame grounds as well as cable impedance/ Resistance.
As always verify you engine to frame grounds and your battery to frame grounds as well as cable impedance/ Resistance.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
Yes it is written on the outside of the box with the other specs. Performance is quite good excellent.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
Melting Slicks
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From: Fleming Island, FL
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
I don't want to go on tangent but it had a few problems and I got tired of messing with it so replaced it when a mechanic recommended one that he liked on a big block truck and I agree with him except for the heat problem with headers.
Race Director
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
And yet, my original factory starter. As heavy as it is. Has never failed me. My wiring to the starter failed once. Quickly repaired with a starter relay.
I just don't want my C3 Corvette to sound like my neighbours Toyota when cranking. That really bugs me.
I just don't want my C3 Corvette to sound like my neighbours Toyota when cranking. That really bugs me.