Starter overheating problems
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,949
Likes: 4,507
From: Virginia
If it just clicks, you either have a poor connection, or a dead battery, or both. Start with the connections on the battery itself.
Even if it shows the correct voltage, it may not have enough remaining ampacity to start your car.
Can you hook up a multimeter and watch the voltage dip during an attempted start?
Even if it shows the correct voltage, it may not have enough remaining ampacity to start your car.
Can you hook up a multimeter and watch the voltage dip during an attempted start?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
If it just clicks, you either have a poor connection, or a dead battery, or both. Start with the connections on the battery itself.
Even if it shows the correct voltage, it may not have enough remaining ampacity to start your car.
Can you hook up a multimeter and watch the voltage dip during an attempted start?
Even if it shows the correct voltage, it may not have enough remaining ampacity to start your car.
Can you hook up a multimeter and watch the voltage dip during an attempted start?
This morning I tried to start it (55 degrees) and all I could get were clicks with 10 tries. Then I charged up the battery but it was fully charged anyway. I tried it after doing that and only got clicks. Then a couple hours later I tried again and it started up nice and crisp with gusto.
Most of the time it starts up fine but occasionally it only clicks until I try it again a while later. This is not making any sense to me. The electrician says it’s well grounded.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,228
Likes: 7,825
From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Cruise-In VIII Veteran
What your describing sounds like a bad connection. Your electrician says it's grounded properly. I wouldn't go on that at all. I would triple check both ground cables myself! Are they green inside, under the cable insulation? Good , CLEAN connection under battery at the frame connection? Engine ground cable, the same, CLEAN, secure connection's at the engine block and frame connection.
Do not count on someone else's assessment. Check it your self! Then condition of battery positive cable! With all the issues you have had that all SCREAM Bad connection. I would be looking at replacing all 3 cables!
If your getting clicking. It's absolutely NOT in your switches.
Do not count on someone else's assessment. Check it your self! Then condition of battery positive cable! With all the issues you have had that all SCREAM Bad connection. I would be looking at replacing all 3 cables!
If your getting clicking. It's absolutely NOT in your switches.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,228
Likes: 7,825
From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Battery to frame, clean and tight on both ends, proper gauge cable, engine block, just above starter to frame at idler arm. Clean and tight both ends. Proper size cable. Positive cable, clean and tight. Both ends. All solenoid hardware, also, clean and tight.
Clicking at solenoid shows power is getting to solenoid. So it clearly is NOT your clutch switch. Clicking at solenoid shows solenoid is not sending power to the starting motor. Bad disc inside solenoid? 2 in a row? Possible. Poor Battery cables? Also possible. Age? Quality?
also possible, bad spot on commutator of starter motor armature.
Clicking at solenoid shows power is getting to solenoid. So it clearly is NOT your clutch switch. Clicking at solenoid shows solenoid is not sending power to the starting motor. Bad disc inside solenoid? 2 in a row? Possible. Poor Battery cables? Also possible. Age? Quality?
also possible, bad spot on commutator of starter motor armature.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
Battery to frame, clean and tight on both ends, proper gauge cable, engine block, just above starter to frame at idler arm. Clean and tight both ends. Proper size cable. Positive cable, clean and tight. Both ends. All solenoid hardware, also, clean and tight.
Clicking at solenoid shows power is getting to solenoid. So it clearly is NOT your clutch switch. Clicking at solenoid shows solenoid is not sending power to the starting motor. Bad disc inside solenoid? 2 in a row? Possible. Poor Battery cables? Also possible. Age? Quality?
also possible, bad spot on commutator of starter motor armature.
Clicking at solenoid shows power is getting to solenoid. So it clearly is NOT your clutch switch. Clicking at solenoid shows solenoid is not sending power to the starting motor. Bad disc inside solenoid? 2 in a row? Possible. Poor Battery cables? Also possible. Age? Quality?
also possible, bad spot on commutator of starter motor armature.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,094
Likes: 298
From: Midlothian VA
A simple test for bad ground between battery & starter is to attach a jumper cable to the negative post of the battery and attach the other end of the cable to a clean (unpainted) point on your engine block. Then see if this improves/eliminates your starting issue.
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Advanced
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 62
Likes: 2
From: Wichita Kansas
I have a 70 454 vette (have owned it since 1973) with Hooker Ceramic Coated Side Pipes. Stock compression ratio (10.75 if I remember right). I fought the slow cranking problem when the engine was hot for years using the stock Delco Remy starters. Replaced a lot of starters and solenoids. I tried the wraps but not much help. Finally went to a mini starter a few years ago and put the wrap around it just to be on the safe side. Seems like I had to do a minor wiring change (I'm no electrician) but no problems since then.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
I have a 70 454 vette (have owned it since 1973) with Hooker Ceramic Coated Side Pipes. Stock compression ratio (10.75 if I remember right). I fought the slow cranking problem when the engine was hot for years using the stock Delco Remy starters. Replaced a lot of starters and solenoids. I tried the wraps but not much help. Finally went to a mini starter a few years ago and put the wrap around it just to be on the safe side. Seems like I had to do a minor wiring change (I'm no electrician) but no problems since then.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
There may be problem with oil dropping on one of the cables that is on one of the hold down bolts for the starter. Dripping directly down from the oil pan ( I need to replace the oil pan gasket with a one piecer). The other cable on the other hold down is very clean and they both go to the frame near the engine mount. That is clean but not be the best location possibly to bolt down.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
A simple test for bad ground between battery & starter is to attach a jumper cable to the negative post of the battery and attach the other end of the cable to a clean (unpainted) point on your engine block. Then see if this improves/eliminates your starting issue.
Could this mean the key switch is faulty and is intermittently connecting with the contacts?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 429
Likes: 24
From: Charlotte NC
It appears the ignition switch is worn out. The key doesn't make a buzzing sound anymore when inserting and other contact problems. This was replaced in 2018 ...do they not last as long after replacing? A Chevy dealer replaced it last time and was not cheap.