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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 10:21 AM
  #21  
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If by some chance the height is not correct (too high) you can buy longer bolts and set the D Height yourself.

Last edited by cottoneg; Oct 21, 2024 at 06:33 AM.
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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by randallsteel
Im not 100% dead set against it, I would just want to do some more research into it first. Theres a lot of threads of guys who switched to composite and seemed to have a hassle to get back to stock height.
Im thinking I’ll start with removing the current spring, take some measurements to try and see what arch height I’ll need.
current ground to rear wheel well is 28.5”
what is wrong with the wheel height .. that is pretty much were you want to be 🤷‍♂️
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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 10:56 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by cottoneg
If by some change the height is not correct (too high) you can buy longer bolts and set the D Height yourself.
I ordered some 8 inch van steel spring bolts that have about 4 inches of threads on it. Lock nut instead of the castle nut.
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Old Oct 20, 2024 | 10:58 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Cam33
what is wrong with the wheel height .. that is pretty much were you want to be 🤷‍♂️
Nothing lol, I want a stiffer spring and the same ride height as I have now. My bad if that wasn’t worded well. Engineer=poor english.
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Old Oct 22, 2024 | 10:25 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by randallsteel
I ordered some 8 inch van steel spring bolts that have about 4 inches of threads on it. Lock nut instead of the castle nut.
You can use a Dremel and remove the excess if needed. An engineer? Measure the D height and be sure it set the same for both sides.
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 01:59 PM
  #26  
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Question for y’all about the rear strut rods. The bushing are shot.
can I just remove the strut rod, knock out/replace bushings and put em back without completing ruining the alignment?
Im not opposed to replacing the strut rods entirely, seems to be not too much more($90 for rods, $27 for just bushings)
is it recommended to replace the strut rods?
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 02:02 PM
  #27  
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It is recommended to replace the stock strut rods with heim-jointed strut rods. Be careful removing the shock bolts, though. That lead to a complete rear-end rebuild in my car.

You need a way to measure your camber and toe-in no matter what you do. @cagotzmann has some DIY threads on that. Use the money you save doing your own alignment for tools and better components!

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nt-method.html
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 04:53 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by randallsteel
Question for y’all about the rear strut rods. The bushing are shot.
can I just remove the strut rod, knock out/replace bushings and put em back without completing ruining the alignment?
Im not opposed to replacing the strut rods entirely, seems to be not too much more($90 for rods, $27 for just bushings)
is it recommended to replace the strut rods?
this is my replacement and advice i got ,..went poly no issues, easier to put in. or as mentioned.. adjustable
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-advice-2.html





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Old Oct 26, 2024 | 12:40 PM
  #29  
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Bikespace, interpon, thanks for the threads and great info.
should be getting the struts off and crossmember down tomorrow. I’ll def be careful with the shock mounts.
Diff is going out for 3.73 gears instead of 3.08
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Old Oct 27, 2024 | 01:42 PM
  #30  
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Rear cross member is out, diff’s out, half shafts out, all went well.
inside the diff looks good. Don’t see any cracks in the posi case, no metal in the oil, didn’t smell cooked.
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Old Oct 29, 2024 | 10:52 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by randallsteel
Rear cross member is out, diff’s out, half shafts out, all went well.
Don't forget to do the front end once you're done with the rear end.
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Old Oct 31, 2024 | 12:51 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by LT1M21Vette
Don't forget to do the front end once you're done with the rear end.
thats going have to wait til next year lol
I’ve really been surprised at how expensive rear end parts are. Ima be over $2.5k when this is all done.
My forged balanced rotating assembly from scat was less than that! $2.3k.
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Old Jan 20, 2025 | 06:38 PM
  #33  
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Just to close out the thread, got it all assembled finally.
still some tweaking left to do, but ima going to drive it around a few miles first.
Driver side is 1/4” lower than the right, camber isn’t 100%
Worst part by far was the lower shock mount removal

Very content with the Eaton 330# 7 leaf.
appreciate all the tips/advice.
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Old Jan 21, 2025 | 10:47 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by randallsteel
Driver side is 1/4” lower than the right
appreciate all the tips/advice.
Good luck with that: right rear higher than left
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