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I'm not aware of any kit with good weights. Most agree to use the springs, but not the weights in these kits.
And 900-1,000 is a bit high.
Perhaps try contacting DUI in Tennessee. Or performance distributors I think is there other name. My DUI distributor doesn't start to advance untill about 1,200 .
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Centrifugal advance will start coming in at 900. Completely normal. Why are you idling at 900..? Shoot for "all-in" at 2800 - 3000 rpm with whatever springs will create that "peg-out" point and then take what you get for "start rpm." The high performance GM engines actually had some centrifugal coming in right at idle rpm - John Hinckley commented on this many times in his timing posts.
There are no good aftermarket weights - non of them are heat treated, and they will "egg out" the pivot holes within a few thousand miles. Find and use original weights.
Lars
The Lt-1 calls for 900 RPM at Idle. So that’s what i was shooting for. My expectation was that the centrifugal advance would start coming in above 1000, but I found that it was active just over 900.
I’m running a retrofit Hydraulic roller, so I can probably get it to idle a bit lower and not have the centrifugal affecting the idle.
Already set the max 36 at ~3000 - idle worked out to be ~14, but was bouncing around to 16, which is how i found the centrifugal was coming in. If I lower the idle, that should solve my issue.
You could always switch to electronic timing, such as progression ignition distributor. No weights, just type in the numbers you want. Customize your timing table to your application.
I am having a somewhat similar problem, bought the Mr. gasket kit and the centrifugal advance was coming in around 800, and still had issues using the stiffest springs Actually had to use real stiff springs from a distributor that were from a stock 307 distributor to delay the advance but it’s all in by 1600. I’m starting to wonder if it’s the cam on the distributor shaft. I had to replace the distributor shaft years ago because the gears for the mechanical tach stripped. Perhaps the design of the lobe for the replacement shaft is not quite to factory design. Just a thought.
Having a MSD Pro Billet Distributor that I bought new I still have the "Distributor Advance kit" they gave you with the distributor. The kit had new Bushings and several sets of different color Springs. Using the springs I was able to get a timing curve that I could live with. If I had gone lighter in the springs my engine would be entering the detonation zone instead of making lots of power.
The MSD pro billet Distributor came with a mechanical tach drive exactly like the one on the factory distributor and it has a grease fitting (which I keep greased).
If you need the springs or bushings then you might just buy a MSD Distributor Setup Kit. The part number and price at Summit racing is: # 8464 for $23
Having a MSD Pro Billet Distributor that I bought new I still have the "Distributor Advance kit" they gave you with the distributor. The kit had new Bushings and several sets of different color Springs. Using the springs I was able to get a timing curve that I could live with. If I had gone lighter in the springs my engine would be entering the detonation zone instead of making lots of power.
The MSD pro billet Distributor came with a mechanical tach drive exactly like the one on the factory distributor and it has a grease fitting (which I keep greased).
If you need the springs or bushings then you might just buy a MSD Distributor Setup Kit. The part number and price at Summit racing is: # 8464 for $23
Thanks for the suggestion. Seems the heaviest springs in the Mr Gasket kit are letting in the advance too soon.
I’m friendly with the owner of a local shop that has a sun machine. It’s down right now, but we agreed that if i fix it, i can use it. So I’m going to pick it up after thanksgiving and get it back up and running. Then I’ll be able to do this on the machine instead of over the fender.