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I’m pretty sure the center console is plastic. If you have the missing piece you could possibly plastic weld it back together.
I’ve used the CA interior dye with great success, but I wouldn’t overpay for their name brand. It’s just rebranded SEM color coat interior dye.
That “break” in the slider is supposed to be there. It’s how you get it around the parking brake handle.
I wouldn’t be too concerned about the insulation on that spot specifically, but having some further forward on the center console directly over the transmission can greatly help reduce interior heat.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
The Corvette America dye for Bright Blue will not perfectly match an original 68 Bright Blue interior. TH original was lighter and had more green in the hue. But if your interior has newer components like that center console or carpeting and such it will match because they have consolidated the colors. It is a very sturdy dye and if the part being painted is cleaned and prepped it will adhere very well. I redyed my entire interior and am very happy with result. It stuck very well to my leather seats as well. It will flake on the seats down deep inn the creases because of the depth and the in ability to get that area pefrectly prepped and covered perfectly. But still its very nice.
I will look into SEM for paint / dye, Piersonpie. Looking at the carpet behind the seat / console, I think we can all agree it’s not blue anymore, and may be headed toward gray; and the seat fillers are (at least through a camera) showing a little green in them.
I had a feeling there was supposed to be a ‘break’ to get the slider around the handle - 90% sure I read that somewhere, but recently read about new ones not fitting. Sounded like they were all 1-piece, and getting ‘broken’ during install. I’ll clean mine, reuse it, and prep / lube a lil so it slides nicely. [Lots of reading on how that slider can bind if the parts are assembled incorrectly, or new parts have burrs.]
Carpet and Seat upholstery is on my list, just not yet - no sense looking good sitting in the garage. I’ve got more mechanical / maintenance to button-up before interior & trim. In addition to 56yo carpet, the seats are torn and the foam is deteriorating.
…one thing at a time…
That’s a lot of blue in there, Rescue Roger’s - looks great! I’ll keep in mind that my console may “POP” like yours if I recondition it before any other panels. [Cameras only do so much to express colors - found that out on my post about VHT Chevy Orange engine parts. They ‘seem’ to have a red-tint in pics; look much more Orange in person.]
Speaking of which, that corner chipped apart into tiny pieces before I got the screw out. I’ll look into plastic panel repair kits and get a plan together.
I don't even know where to get SEM liquid vinyl dye anymore. Didn't know that SEM still made ColorCoat in liquid form for public purchase. Great stuff, if you can find it, though.
Some thoughts:
You can patch the broken part with some stick-type (kneed it thoroughly) epoxy. You can also use the same stuff to back up the cracked area in the top of the center console. Sand and clean areas that will see epoxy so that it will stick. Form it as close to the final shape as possible. If you can find something with similar grain pattern, you can press it into the epoxy surface before it fully sets up (after about 2-3 minutes with the 5-minute stuff). Or you can use a sharp pointed tool to etch graining into the surface since it will be in an area that isn't easily visible. Use a soft brush to wipe off any 'cuttings' and smooth the final surface a bit.
Also, you might want to consider eliminating that nasty bolt in the rear of the console. I don't mean than you don't have some method of retention; but, you could cut the head off of the bolt that you would normally use, round off the end, and install it in the rear of the console with a nut on the inside threaded end. Then, when you install the console, you simply put the "bullet-nosed" bolt shaft into the bolt hole in the rear bulkhead and call it DONE. With the other mounting screws, it will stay in place just fine and you will never have to squirm to get that bolt out again!!!
One more thing--buy a cushion for placing over the top of the E-brake housing. They make them in all of the interior colors and in same vinyl pattern as your year car. They are not expensive AND you can use your lower arm to push on the PAD and not cause damage to the housing. I did this (my E-brake housing was cracked in the top just like yours) and used the "E-brake housing assist" for the next 15 years with no problems.
If SEM is no longer available, I’ll check other options - still in the planning phase.
The whole point of removal -as many as you have done- was parts renewal / upgrade / update. And the first step in radio removal is that bolt in the back.
Yes, it was a pain, but I did my research and knew what I was getting into. A while back I bought a tablet for ALDL info on my OBD-1 Suburban, and a $40 Depstech camera/borescope for the tablet. Using the tablet/scope combo, I found I could get to the bolt through the jack pocket.
Turns out I also have an SAE set of GearWrench XL wrenches (ratcheting/box combo), and it was long enough to minimize the struggle. [I eventually swapped over to 2 Snap-On 1/4”-impact-U-joints + 3/8” socket + 12” extension, and it made removal easier.]
Looks like the idea of “install the bolt [stud] head on the cabin-side” will be considered for re-install. I like it, thanks!
I’ll consider the custom pad once I get a true feeling of the brake lever - right now it just ratchets up freely 🤣
Oh! And since I’m in there, I’ll look into some heat/noise insulation to replace the old batting, seal up the trans tunnel and make the ride a lil ‘cooler’. [“No pun intended”? NO!!! Be a man, INTEND ALL YOUR PUNS!!! 🤣]
Any suggestions on what you guys have used?
What works best?
Best brand for “cost / benefit” ratio?
Lowest asphalt odor? [Some of the heavier insulation I’ve looked at for my square Suburban has had that warning - “it’ll smell like you’re perpetually driving through a construction zone”.]
…btw… the front pipes are already wrapped in DEI header wrap - every lil bit helps with the heat.
For heat protection in the tunnel area, you NEED to install the foam collar above the transmission (or something of similar material) to prevent engine heat from entering the trans tunnel. Also make sure the upper heat shielding is in place in the roof of the tunnel...or put other type of heat blanket in there. The condition of the rubber boot is also important (manual or auto). If it is cracked or torn, LOTS of heat will enter the cabin area. If you install heat barrier with aluminum foil facing, put the facing DOWN to reflect the infra-red heat. Otherwise, the blanket itself will get hot and pass heat inside.
7T1vette, I will get the transmission tunnel checked out, thank you!
IIRC, I’ve head the stories about cabin heat and the trans tunnel insulation & collar seal go hand-in-hand.
I’ve got a tablet with a scope/camera app, so I’ll snake it down there and see what the last 56yrs have done to those components.
As far as ‘interior heat seals’ I’ll keep looking. But the parts recommended will be first on my list …for this part of the project - there are other parts that top other lists 🤣
2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
I recently had the transmission on my 72 BB rebuilt and added the heat shield and collar. It’s pretty cool up here still so can’t really compare but I did drive it 60 miles comfortably.
as far as the console, I just pulled mine too. Looks almost as bad as yours. I just bought a replacement from Al Knoch and it’s light years heavier and sturdier. It’s also vinyl wrapped.
I recently had the transmission on my 72 BB rebuilt and added the heat shield and collar. It’s pretty cool up here still so can’t really compare but I did drive it 60 miles comfortably.
as far as the console, I just pulled mine too. Looks almost as bad as yours. I just bought a replacement from Al Knoch and it’s light years heavier and sturdier. It’s also vinyl wrapped.
Thanks for the suggestion [I have another thread about seats, and Al Knoch was the highest recommended name for seats. Prices are better, Made In USA].
However, at $110 for the console, I decided to try my hand at repairing it.
I’ve had pretty good luck with tape and fiberglass. So I thought I’d go that direction with this repair.
Maybe it's good enough…?
Painters tape on the outside, got the tiny broken piece lined up as best as possible [felt like 10-20 tries], and figured the resin would fill in the seams/gaps, as well as make up for the even-tinier piece that was missing.
I cut 3 square pieces at about 1”-1.5” per side, mixed up the resin, and probably threw away more resin than I used.
Folded the tape over the edge, making a 90° to act as a ‘wall’ to keep the resin in, and… Not perfect, but better Inside, with the tape that got stuck under the resin Close-up -> looks like maybe a drop of resin in the hole might help?!?
Just need to do a lil sanding on those stray fibers, wait til the Eastwood Bright Blue paint shows up, and touch up the newly filled spot.
Plus, carefully drill through it. AND NOT overtighten that screw.
I'd be proud if I could reproduce the texture, but that might be beyond my scope of repair.
Lots of youtube vids on repairing plastic. I would search, watch some and see what suites you best. There are also vids on how to match texture. That replacement piece does not cost too much. Since you are going to be re dyeing anyways, you can buy a black one and re dye it. Just an idea. I’m all about making things work and restoring what I can. Sometimes it makes sense, sometimes not so much.
From your pictures is the metal support missing. The long metal support attaches to the parking brake console with “trim nuts.” There are small studs glued to the inside of the brake console. I tried to use JB Weld Epoxy with bad results. The best glue was from HD E6000, and that seemed to work ok, just don’t tighten them too much.
Both metal supports are inside; it’s just the zoomed in pics to show details.
Believe me, I was surprised to see “power window” style support in a crank-window car.
Took about 3 seconds for my brain to register that they wouldn’t make two different styles.
Park Brake Console
