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Thanks in advance for your help here. Made a huge mistake 6 years ago when we took a C3 (son's first car) to a local body shop and they stripped with remover. Now there are several places that keep bubbling up. Was fine for 2-3 years and then that's when the problem started. New body shop essentially said car was ruined due to the remover getting into the fiberglass and would keep coming to the surface indefinitely. Really nice car and not inclined to salvage since the car is perfect in every other way...Any experience out there of someone who fought his battle? Is it permanent or will this eventually work its way out of the fiberglass. Mostly on the driver door and front fenders.
I’ve stripped dozens of Corvettes with methylene chloride strippers without issue. You will need to sand down to bare fiberglass and apply either a two part epoxy or catalyzed polyester based primer surfacer to seal prior to topcoating.
I have blisters on my 73 and showed my paint store guy. He told me it's because they painted it too soon and didn't let the primer cure out all the way.
I am in the process of painting my 78 and I have completely stripped it down to bare fiberglass. It has had one or two coats of paint applied over the years and I didn't want to chance something coming up after I did all this work. I carefully used a DA sander to get the majority of the paint off with 80 grit. I estimate I spent about 2-3 hours on each panel. I am retired,, have lots of time on my hands and also have lots of other things going on, so this project is taking a long time. Lately it seems that that time is spent with doctors, but oh well.
I actually started a DIY PAINT MY OWN CAR thread here https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nt-thread.html but I get lazy and don't think people actually want to see me sand everything down. Now the sanding is almost done and I am about to update that thread soon. With the help/advice from people here and in the PAINT AND BODY section I actually think I can pull this off. I am just about to give it one more light sanding with 80 grit by hand to make sure I didn't miss anything. Once that is done I will wipe it all down with some acetone. Then spray it with 2 coats of G2 Fiberfill polyester. Then the real fun will start.
I am just about to give it one more light sanding with 80 grit by hand to make sure I didn't miss anything. Once that is done I will wipe it all down with some acetone. Then spray it with 2 coats of G2 Fiberfill polyester. Then the real fun will start.
Do your hand sanding with 150 to 180 grit paper. A random orbital sander using 80 grit gives about the same scratch depth as 180 used by hand. Using 80 by hand will give a deeper scratch pattern and require more primer to fill.
Polyester primer is basically sprayable bondo. As such, it is porous. Epoxy is non-porous and will give you far better and longer lasting results because it remains flexible over time. Southern Polyurethanes makes a high solids epoxy that is relatively easy to sand, unlike many epoxies (PPG for example) that are made for use as a first coat for sealing a surface and sands like sanding a rock. Another advantage to epoxy is that you can use one product from bare glass thru blocking and on to sealing for base. Cost per sprayable gallon is about the same for SPI epoxy or G2 featherfill. I've used both products on glass in the past, and IMO the long term durability of a paint job over epoxy leaves poly primer a distant second.
Issue with Paint Bubbling
