C3 buying tips?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,872
Likes: 7
From: Richmond VA
C3 buying tips?
I have owned several Corvettes. Was very active here several years ago.
Now looking for my first C3 convertible. Want 1968-1971. Hoping to find one that will not depreciate like all my others.
Prefer manual.
Undecided on big vs small block (advice welcome).
Prefer power steering, brakes, etc.
Any things I should be looking for?
How much does matching numbers affect value going forward?
Now looking for my first C3 convertible. Want 1968-1971. Hoping to find one that will not depreciate like all my others.
Prefer manual.
Undecided on big vs small block (advice welcome).
Prefer power steering, brakes, etc.
Any things I should be looking for?
How much does matching numbers affect value going forward?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 2,206
Likes: 961
From: Wauconda IL
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,026
Likes: 4,174
From: US-PNW
I have owned several Corvettes. Was very active here several years ago.
Now looking for my first C3 convertible. Want 1968-1971. Hoping to find one that will not depreciate like all my others.
Prefer manual.
Undecided on big vs small block (advice welcome).
Prefer power steering, brakes, etc.
Any things I should be looking for?
How much does matching numbers affect value going forward?
Now looking for my first C3 convertible. Want 1968-1971. Hoping to find one that will not depreciate like all my others.
Prefer manual.
Undecided on big vs small block (advice welcome).
Prefer power steering, brakes, etc.
Any things I should be looking for?
How much does matching numbers affect value going forward?
For options, my '72 has just about every creature comfort option available. It's a very nice car to drive and doesn't fight me. However, more stuff equals more complexity and potential for failure.
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 10
Likes: 8
From: Sussex, United Kingdom
I have a manual '69 big block with no power steering and no power brakes. It's quite a workout, but that's what I wanted from the car.
I was set on a small block coupe and ended up with a big block convertible. What you think you want is not always what you end up with : )
I was set on a small block coupe and ended up with a big block convertible. What you think you want is not always what you end up with : )
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,521
Likes: 1,956
From: Temple Terrace Florida
The over riding factor is a rust free birdcage and frame. Next would be a a sound engine, transmission and rear. If you find an appealing car that does not have power steering, power brakes or air conditioning, all those components can be added. Good luck with your search. Jerry
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,701
Likes: 1,892
From: LONG ISLAND
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 724
Likes: 112
From: Austin TX area
IMO, numbers matching is only important is you want to go for NCRS or Bloomington. If it's not numbers matching, you could save yourself $$. Depends on what you want to do with it. Do you want a driver, something you use and have fun with? Or do you want to keep it as original as possible. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying a NCRS top flight cars are trail queens, but if you have something that nice will you still want to keep driving it.
Also, keep in mind a 68 has a lot of one year only parts. Might be difficult to find some stuff.
Also, keep in mind a 68 has a lot of one year only parts. Might be difficult to find some stuff.
Last edited by kingkohlmn; Apr 29, 2025 at 01:15 PM. Reason: Add comment.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 14,320
Likes: 8,124
From: Napa Valley California
First decide what you want to use the car for.
Do you want a trailer queen, a nice looking show car that you drive, weekend cruiser, racer???
Then things like matching numbers start coming into play.
I wanted a matching numbers coupe with a big block.
Matching numbers was only important because I wanted a car which had as much original equipment still in it as possible to reduce the risk of poorly done work by prior owners.
I found one for sale at a car show in excellent condition.
I’m in the middle of a body off restoration where next to nothing is original equipment.
New 496 engine, 5 speed manual transmission conversion, upgraded rear differential, full coil over suspension front and rear, Wilwood brakes, new paint, all new interior, and the list goes on.
My point is, if you find a really nice car but it’s a small block, you can always swap in a big block.
Do you want a trailer queen, a nice looking show car that you drive, weekend cruiser, racer???
Then things like matching numbers start coming into play.
I wanted a matching numbers coupe with a big block.
Matching numbers was only important because I wanted a car which had as much original equipment still in it as possible to reduce the risk of poorly done work by prior owners.
I found one for sale at a car show in excellent condition.
I’m in the middle of a body off restoration where next to nothing is original equipment.
New 496 engine, 5 speed manual transmission conversion, upgraded rear differential, full coil over suspension front and rear, Wilwood brakes, new paint, all new interior, and the list goes on.
My point is, if you find a really nice car but it’s a small block, you can always swap in a big block.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,872
Likes: 7
From: Richmond VA
I would like to own one that doesn't depreciate as much as my C8 and other corvettes did. It will sit in a garage and just drive on nice days.
Ideally a '68-'71 numbers matching orange big block convertible with manual. Doesnt need to be perfect. My budget is around 40ish so not sure I can get all that. I would prob sacrifice the big block first.
I have not driven anything without PS in years so guess I should drive one first.
Ideally a '68-'71 numbers matching orange big block convertible with manual. Doesnt need to be perfect. My budget is around 40ish so not sure I can get all that. I would prob sacrifice the big block first.
I have not driven anything without PS in years so guess I should drive one first.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,923
Likes: 4,495
From: Virginia
Are you planning on keeping it stock? If so, the best way to not lose money when you sell it is to not buy it. They are done depreciating, though.
Looking at the car in your profile photo, perhaps you will not concern yourself with stock parts, numbers matching, or even SBC vs. BBC. Build the car you want to drive, and drive it! You can build up any year C3 to outperform any C3 GM ever sold new. Color and year are aesthetic choices. Underneath, the cars are very similar (and the interior of the later cars is much more pleasant to my eye, and butt).
Here's a summary from 23 years ago on this Forum:
Looking at the car in your profile photo, perhaps you will not concern yourself with stock parts, numbers matching, or even SBC vs. BBC. Build the car you want to drive, and drive it! You can build up any year C3 to outperform any C3 GM ever sold new. Color and year are aesthetic choices. Underneath, the cars are very similar (and the interior of the later cars is much more pleasant to my eye, and butt).
Here's a summary from 23 years ago on this Forum:
1970 had high compression and gross HP figures
1971 had lowered compression and both gross and net HP figures
1972 had low compression and net HP figures
1973 added hardened valve seats
and
1975 added cat converters
The lower compression and hardened valve seats were getting ready for the upcoming unleaded gas and cat converters.
tom...
1971 had lowered compression and both gross and net HP figures
1972 had low compression and net HP figures
1973 added hardened valve seats
and
1975 added cat converters
The lower compression and hardened valve seats were getting ready for the upcoming unleaded gas and cat converters.
tom...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,872
Likes: 7
From: Richmond VA
Yea the one in my profile pic was a great investment for fun! Most certainly didn't my money back but that's ok. Same with my C8. For a C3 I plan on keeping it stock. I want to drive it as they designed it. I dont expect to get rich but also dont want to lose half in 5 years.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,116
From: Crossville TN
If power is important and cost is not an issue, get a 1970 model. If money is an issue and "best power" is not a major requirement, opt for a 1972-1972. They will have somewhat less power (still enough for FUN, if you dial in the distributor and carb properly), but will run on 87 octane fuel and still hold their value well over the years. 1968-69 are good cars, but I don't like the fact they have no rock guards built into the body panels behind the tires. It was enough of an issue, that they were added in 1970 and up.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,872
Likes: 7
From: Richmond VA
If most of the options were the same which would you prefer?
1969 convertible 350 number matching. Manual.
1968 convertible 427, 427 car but not the original 427 motor. Manual. $3k more.
1969 convertible 350 number matching. Manual.
1968 convertible 427, 427 car but not the original 427 motor. Manual. $3k more.
Last edited by clemsondave; Apr 29, 2025 at 08:22 PM.
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 53,976
Likes: 6,202
From: About 1100 miles from where I call home.
IMO, numbers matching is only important is you want to go for NCRS or Bloomington. If it's not numbers matching, you could save yourself $$. Depends on what you want to do with it. Do you want a driver, something you use and have fun with? Or do you want to keep it as original as possible. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying a NCRS top flight cars are trail queens, but if you have something that nice will you still want to keep driving it.
Also, keep in mind a 68 has a lot of one year only parts. Might be difficult to find some stuff.
Also, keep in mind a 68 has a lot of one year only parts. Might be difficult to find some stuff.
It directly affects value. If you dont want to care about such things or try to verify them, then you can look at NOM cars and expect to pay less. Or, if you want an original car, you will need to do more homework, get more help, do more inspecting and pay more, but those cars will be worth more.
But either way, you should understand the effect matching numbers have on value, specifically on cars that are worth more anyway, like big blocks, premium correct colors and roadsters.
A prospective buyer should understand the market, whether he personally wants an original car or not.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,701
Likes: 1,892
From: LONG ISLAND
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Surprise...................Coming from a '68 guy, .............................. in this case i'd 100% prefer an original matching number '69 over a no match '68 !
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,923
Likes: 4,495
From: Virginia
In case it got lost, this link takes you right to the rust trouble spots on the C3. Post 107 has all of the images that were deleted.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...orvette-6.html
Ask for photos of these areas when looking online. If you are looking on Facebook, good luck getting more photos or information without seeing the car in person. You can find some deals, but most of those go to the first person who shows up with a trailer and cash.
So, use Bring a Trailer instead. Lots more photos, and generally higher quality cars. It is an auction, though.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...orvette-6.html
Ask for photos of these areas when looking online. If you are looking on Facebook, good luck getting more photos or information without seeing the car in person. You can find some deals, but most of those go to the first person who shows up with a trailer and cash.
So, use Bring a Trailer instead. Lots more photos, and generally higher quality cars. It is an auction, though.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 2,117
From: Minnesota
Looks like OP looked at a 1969 427 in October, and hasn’t been active on the forum since a little after.
It’s a bit silly to compare C3 prices to the rapidly depreciating newer models though. There might be a slight depreciation of all years as more original owners/people that were of driving age when these cars were new age out of being able to drive altogether, but overall I only see their values going up over time.
It’s a bit silly to compare C3 prices to the rapidly depreciating newer models though. There might be a slight depreciation of all years as more original owners/people that were of driving age when these cars were new age out of being able to drive altogether, but overall I only see their values going up over time.
