Hi,
I was just quoted $225ea to strip, fill and chrome plate the pot metal windshield molding pieces. 1968 convertible. I know 1969-1976 repro pairs are available for $150. I've heard that the later repros on 1968s don't fit right.

Any pics of later pieces on 1968s?

Thought on costs? Quote is for triple plated finish. I'm in CA, but quote was from TX.

Thanks,
Rob

 

What is the part number cast into the underside of those, because they look like 69-76's to me? The 68 header corners I'm familiar with have the pin receiver as a separate casting from the header molding itself, like a 63-67.

 

Interesting. Numbers are:

3935503 LH
3935604 RH

I didn't even notice until looking closer but there is a very slight difference where this goes under stainless. 3935604 RH has straight edges and 3935503 LH has a slight contour of fore and aft edges.

 

I just hit order on 69-76 repro's from Trim Parts. We'll see?

If doable, I'd rather work the stainless so it fits right with something that can be replaced in the future.

Thanks for the help.

Rob

 

Let's start with I think the left hand is 3935603, not 503.

I think you'll be okay with the 69-76 moldings.

Bare with me because this may get a little confusing. I looked at my September 1970 Corvette Parts Book, a December 1980 Corvette Parts Book, and my work laptop. Both the of the Parts Books list a first and second design header corner molding for 1968. The "first design" is the two piece one with the separate receiver for the top pins, listed as "3915667" left and "3915668" right hand. Both Parts Books list the 68 "second design" corner moldings as "3966601" left hand and "3966602" right hand. The 1980 book also notes this molding as "W/ATTACH BSHG" which I assume means it has the attached receiver that takes the pin bushing, instead of a separate receiver like the first design. The 70 book also lists "601" and "602" for 69-71, and the 80 book lists them as 69-76. I don't have a 68 Assembly Manual at the house, but the 69 AIM shows the "601" and "602" as the corners installed in 69. Finally I have a note in my parts section of my laptop showing the 69-76 corners as a "replacement for 68 2nd design".

This is just a guess, but it appears to me the "3935603" and "3935604" corners you have are the "true" second design 68 parts, and that sometime between the end of 68 and when my 70 Parts Book was printed, they were replaced in the parts system by the 1969 corners, "3966601" and "3966602". There may be a very slight difference between the 68 corners you have and the 69 up corners, but it's probably insignificant enough that GM determined the 69's were an acceptable service replacement for the second design 68's. I think you'll be okay with the center header molding too, because normally the Parts Book will have a note if a modification has to be made to use a substituted part.

I'd hold onto the moldings you have. The 68 first design two piece corners are pretty sought after and your's may be of some interest to another 68 owner too, depending on if there's a visual difference to them compared to the 69's.

 

Lots of great info

 

I know you ordered the repros but $225 is not a bad price for the rechroming. I’d opt for that if you don’t like the repros.

 

Going thru this same issue with a 69 coupe, an early Sept 68 build.

I think the following:

Your photos of your corner moldings match the 68 AIM numbers 3935603-4 with no slot on the inboard side to install a sheet metal nut.
Your matching ss top trim should not have a hole in the end if a real 68 pc.

69 and up corner moldings are 3966601-2 per my 69 and 72 AIM and I think this is constant until 76?

These 69 and up corner moldings have a slot and you install a sheet metal nut there and that slot matches a dimpled hole in the ss top trim. This ss top trim would be a "T" shape for a coupe and I have both top trims for a 68 and 69+ coupes, sure enough the ss top trim has a dimpled hole for the 69 and no hole for the 68.

The 2 pc 68 corner molding with 2 pc's is very hard find. I think the 2 pc was for 68 verts, maybe?

Agree with above, you can buy 69+ corner moldings all over pretty reasonable. The real 68 pc in your photos 3935603-4 I could not find a reproduction.

So, I think the 69+ pc will fit in the place of the 68 pc 3935603 -4 BUT you need the matching ss trim top pc with the hole to fasten the screw to the sheet metal nut in the slot. OR maybe not maybe you just fasten the top ss trim as the 68 design and the slot on the 69+ molding is hidden. I will find out in a couple of week, as I have the same issue. Hope this helps...maybe

 

A few years back I purchased chrome reproductions probably made by Trim. They looked well made and fit my 73 really good. Trim reproductions are usually very well made, I also recall buying the chrome / painted hood ornament too.

 

That's a bargain. Shop rates in any professional shop are roughly $125/hr, and twice that in California. That means that the shop can strip, fill, repair, sand, shape, polish and triple plate each one of those badly damaged junk pot metal pieces for less than 2 hours of labor each. I'd charge you at least 4 hours each to fix those without doing the plating... $225 is a smokin' deal. How can you even question that price?? Really?

 

I have used these guys on Long Island several times in the past & have good prices, not sure as "GREAT" as you got, but you can check. Usual problem with these places is turn around time. The summer is usually a lot faster turn anound & the shops not as busy, vs winter when all these cars are parked !

CLICK HERE >>>>> https://www.nassauchrome.com/

 

gbvette62,
Thank you very much for the research and response on this. 3935603 LH is correct. Very much appreciated and I will hang on to these until I see how things fit.

20Mercury,
I'll post some pics in a week or so, I'm at that point of assembly and w/s installation. My center trim does not have holes. Each end has a channel that fits fore/aft over molding's inboard ear. The aft side of center trim fits inside header sheet metal and is secured by 6 dedicated U-nuts/screws. The forward edge has forward facing bends that fit between the upper w/s ss trim's downward facing bends. The upper w/s ss trim is part of what secures the forward edge. Some pics below.

69L88/Lars,
I agree that for the work involved, and considering plating constraints, this is a good price. Just weighing options. I've read of others using the later repro's on '68s, but those posts lacked detail and I haven't seen close pics. I'll follow up soon.

Thanks again,
Rob

 

I replaced these corner pieces on my 70, reproductions. After two years, car kept in a garage, I’m seeing pitting already. Could be poor plating? You may do better having the originals restored and plated by a reputable plater.

Ive thought about buying reproductions, having them stripped and replated, see if they stand up better. I can’t speak on a 68 but the later years require removing the windshield to get at the screws. May be worth spending a bit more up front?

Same pitting showing up on reproduction exhaust bezels and license plate frame. Reproduction parts are quite disappointing.

 

I am having the same issue on my70. How does the chrome trim come off the header?. Is it used glued as there is a black substance along the edges. Thank you

 

There is one front screw that is half hidden behind the glass windshield lip.
There is almost zero chance of getting those screws out without cracking the windshield.
You need to remove the windshield first.
And these pieces go back on before the windshield goes back in.

 

Hi Rob. I have a 68 coupe (March build) and your pieces look just like mine. You probably have the later 68 design. Attached is a pic.

Im in Texas, and considering getting mine plated… can you share the place you had talked with? Thanks for your help!

 

Thank you for the reply I guess I will try to buff some of the pitting before I remove the windshield at this time. When the time comes to replace the windshield I guess I will tackle the chrome headliner. Thanks again.

 

$225 each?
What's the contact number of the person who quoted you that. I want to hire them to do mine

 

Can't confirm but I believe the chrome shop may be in the El Paso area per some of the folks on a C10 site I hang out on.

 

Mine has four 8-32 screws per molding piece; two aft and two forward. The two forward screws are the issue with windshield installed. Molding 'ear' inserts into center stainless piece and center stainless has 6 U-nuts on aft side to secure to header bar. The '68 appears unique in that the forward edge of center stainless is secured by upper stainless trim. I believe factory and most restorers use sealant where molding ear inserts into center stainless piece. Hope that clear.

Quote was from Atlas Chrome Plating in Houston. I received a cheaper quote from a place in CA but its electroless.

v/r,
Rob