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The frame I am currently working on for my 72 C3 will need to be painted. The car is a completely original with matching numbers and build sheet. The car will not be a NCRS candidate, yet I’m trying to keep it as original as possible during the restoration.
I really like gloss black paint. I think it makes the suspension components/frame look good. I also realize that semi-gloss black is the correct color.
Suggestions? Gloss black or semi-gloss black?
Hello,
The frame was painted with semi-gloss black. It was 'dip' painted.
Many of the other parts like brackets were also semi-gloss black, but were 'dip' painted and often had a bit more glossy finish.
Radiators, metal fan shrouds, a-arms, trailing arms, air cleaner bases were typically slightly more shiny black.
Regards.....
If not worried about originality, I 2nd satin. Satin just seems to hide better and kunda smooths everything out by not reflecting light off of imperfections.
When I had my frame powdercoated, they suggested a 20% gloss, which is a common frame gloss level. Consider it satin if you are painting. This is the way.
FYI...if originality isn't a concern....clean the frame and spray it with gloss if that is what you really like,
It may show too many flaws, though;
You can then spray it with semi'gloss to hide some of the welding imperfections.
Many members use satin because it hides nearly all imperfections.
My weird PTSD theory is (which I probably learned years ago from another forum member)...spray everything with gloss black to provide a tough basecoat finish on the fiberglass or steel...
.then spray a topcoat with the semi or satin you like best. I tried using satin as the base coat and also the main coat but it didn't hold up on my daily driver.
With the gloss base and satin topcoat it is very easy to touch up any scratches/rubbed areas/or even areas with orange overspray to keep the area looking freshly painted.
If it were my car I would go with the factory color/sheen. But you like gloss and you state its not an NCRS restoration then I absolutely believe you should do gloss. Then you wont regret it 6 months from now because you got what you wanted in the first place. No regrets
Just a note on powder coat.
First powder loves a sand blasted surface.
Second powder coat shops have colors that they use everyday. If you want a "special" color it will be much more expensive because they have to buy the special color by the pound. Powder goes by RAL numbers color wise. Typically 25 lbs? They may use 1/2 that to do your parts? The rest goes into the land fill?
Hello,
The frame was painted with semi-gloss black. It was 'dip' painted.
Many of the other parts like brackets were also semi-gloss black, but were 'dip' painted and often had a bit more glossy finish.
Radiators, metal fan shrouds, a-arms, trailing arms, air cleaner bases were typically slightly more shiny black.
Regards.....
I really like your approach with the different levels of shine. The suspension/engine compartment pics you provided are perfect! Thank you.
Hello,
The frame was painted with semi-gloss black. It was 'dip' painted.
Many of the other parts like brackets were also semi-gloss black, but were 'dip' painted and often had a bit more glossy finish.
Radiators, metal fan shrouds, a-arms, trailing arms, air cleaner bases were typically slightly more shiny black.
Regards.....
What did you use to achieve the finish on the A-arms?
Is there a concern about water based vs solvent based paints? Here in Commifornia solvent based paints are not allowed. Commercial paint shops must use water based paints. My experience using water based in a home-use environment has been very negative. I read that new Corvette have a water based color coat, but the finish clear coat is solvent based. Looks like paint shops in some states are still allowed to use solvent based paints.
Hello EsQ,
The a-arms are a bit tricky.
I painted them with Krylon Acrylic Lacquer...Semi-Flat.
After that flashed I sprayed on some Krylon Acrylic Lacquer ....Gloss.
Just enough to get some shine showing.
The under side I used the semi-gloss but sprayed it 'wet' to get some but not a lot of gloss.
Regards.....
It's not just the paint.... its everything. Learning how to plate changed everything.
I think I went through the front suspension 4 times. Knowledge was expanding very quickly. Just look at the plating on the caliper mounting bracket.
My opinion the frames too rough for gloss paint,satin is the way to go. And if the frame has surface rust clean it up before it's painted. Nothing looks worse than a rusty frame that someone had blasted then painted.
Hello,
'Plating' is an interesting process to learn how to do at home.
The part needs to be scrupulously clean and the bath uncontaminated.
The black oxide and phosphates are more forgiving.
I believe 'zinc' is typically 'shinier' than 'cad' naturally.
The sway bar mounts were very rusty but not pitted so the plating turned out very smooth and 'bright'.
Regards.....
Alan:
Is there a place where you've posted more photos of your car? I'm in the midst of my restoration efforts and you seem to be very willing to share photos of your car. The photos I've seen so far (and saved!) are fantastic reference. Also, what paint brand did you use for the engine? My block/heads are presently at the machine shop for valve guides/valve job/honing/cam bearings and the aborted restoration of a prior owner had seemingly used a 2-part paint on the engine that is requiring some pretty aggressive measure to remove it.
Thanks in advance!
Bob
Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hello,
The frame was painted with semi-gloss black. It was 'dip' painted.
Many of the other parts like brackets were also semi-gloss black, but were 'dip' painted and often had a bit more glossy finish.
Radiators, metal fan shrouds, a-arms, trailing arms, air cleaner bases were typically slightly more shiny black.
Regards.....
Gloss or Semi-gloss
