Considering a C3...Some Q's
A C3 Corvette seems to be an itch that I can't scratch. I've been interested in owning one for several years. Approaching age 55 soon, I am starting to feel it's about time to get on with it. I am not focused on having the "fastest, best bad-a-s-s C3 around". I like a project. Something rewarding to thrown my time and money at. I am well aware of the money pit scenario with these old cars. I have no ill-conceived notions that I'll fix up an old Vette and flip it for profit. Lol. I am quite experienced with auto repairs and maintenance. I currently own a couple of pre-WW2 cars. I am leaning toward a 1975-80 era Vette. I will admit their lower resale value is attractive. I quite like their appearance. I'd probably lean to the vertical rear window era. 1977 maybe? I suspect the lower resale value is at least partially due to their anemic, smog equipped engines. Sub 200 HP L48 engine is my understanding.
I have a garage here at home and I am about ready for a new project. I keep seeing some sweet C3 'vettes for sale that seem like good deals to me. My questions today are more around how far I might be able to hop-up the stock engine, and keep it from grenade-ing? It is reasonable to consider stripping the all the smog stuff off? New intake manifold and carb? Headers and improved exhaust? Better heads? The two-bolt mains and the crank on the L48 block will take this happily? The clutch, tranny, drive shaft and rear end can take more HP? Perhaps I am better off finding an L82 to build up? A local good-weather cruiser is what I am looking to build. Laying a little rubber, a nice exhaust rumble, some decent acceleration would be part of the fun. Another big part of the fun for me, is the shop time. Modifying, tuning and testing. Car improvements are addicting and fun.
I am interested in hearing your comments about 1977-ish Corvettes. What would/should you have done different with yours? Most any of my questions are surely to be found in earlier threads here. I will start reading and self educating ASAP.
Thanks.
Post #107 of this thread has good buying advice if you haven’t read it already. The general best buying practice is to buy the nicest car you can afford, and it will pay off in dividends for the work you have to do on it.
My car is an L48, and I’ve gone down the path of the heads, cam, and intake swap, but if I were to do it again I would definitely spring for the L82. Not only does it have the 4 bolt mains, it has a forged rotating assembly and higher compression pistons. Meaning that any modifications you make to the top end will make it better than a modified L48, and even the high horsepower hydraulic lifter small blocks in the earlier C3s!
Before, during, and after my engine modifications.





The factory exhaust fell off one day. It was as thou the anchor rope was cut! Huge difference! Then over the years a fair few things changed. Original block. But about double the power.
Love my car. Even after all these years.
Still puts a grin on my chin everytime I take it out!
As to the flat rear window style, it really, really, cuts down on rear space, especially if you put your t-tops back there. The "bubble" back window style offers much more space and easier access.
Are you considering coming south of the border in your search?





And make sure it has 3 pedals. You might have to budget for a 5-speed TKX swap, too. For some reason, folks with 4-speeds (especially later production 4-speeds), seem to hold on to them, but the market is flooded with automatics.
Good luck with your search!





Before tearing into it, just drive and enjoy it, after all a running C3 is faster than a non-running C3.
When it comes time for a new engine in my 75, I have a plan, but while it is a solid running L48, I just enjoy it…get lots of compliments and waves when I take it out, and few ever ask how fast does it go.
Just my .02 cents, good luck with your search and welcome aboard🏁🏁🏁
Welcome to the forum. Best wishes on finding the right C3 and building it into what you want.

The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
In areas like mine (Louisiana), I have no tests/inspections on my 75 - allows me to eliminate catalytic converter, smog pumps, etc. with no concern.
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1977 L48 Basic Mods with Dyno Results - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
Since then I added Trickflow aluminum heads and a Mike Jones cam kit, hope to get it on the dyno in the spring. Runs awesome, a blast to drive!
Also check out Leigh1322's post, very thorough:
L48 performance upgrades by the numbers - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
Having said all of this....these C3's are a stinker to work on. MUCH more difficult than my '67 roadster. Get the best car you can afford and be sure to check the frame for rust.
My advice is simple, find the year, model and body style that you fall in love with and go for it.
If you plan a full body off rebuild, then find a car that’s not necessarily in mint condition and save some money on the purchase.
The mistake I made was finding a show quality car, then disassembling it down to the bare frame to start a nut and bolt, body off Resto Rod.
The frame, bird cage and body are the main concerns you need to pay particular attention to when shopping.
My frame and birdcage were completely rust free and the body looked perfect.
Fiberglass and paint work on these cars are labor intensive and the price of a good paint job with some repairs adds up really quickly once a shop has your car which we typically refer to as “paint jail” for good reason.
You can build a nice 400hp dependable engine out of the oem block and be really happy with the results.
If you want more, you need to keep in mind that the factory drive train was designed to stand up to a maximum of 400-450 hp.
Any more than that and you’ll need to start upgrading the entire drivetrain and that becomes expensive as well.
You can build a nice 600-700 hp engine that can also be dependable but once again it takes a load of cash to do it right so it stays together.
If you’ve been around classic or muscle cars like you say, this is nothing new to you.
One other thing.
These cars are unique in many ways but the same as other cars in many other ways.
I ask a ton of questions on this forum about how my car should be put together to make it correct even though my car is no where near original.
There are many members here on the forum who know their stuff and who are more than willing to help.
Good luck in your search and keep us posted with what you find.
Regrets - None, I'm at the point where I will likely die before I get rid of this car.
Things I wish it had - I do wish it was a 4 speed, I miss driving a stick. That is the only thing over the years that has made me eye something else. If you want a manual, get a manual, it's something I wish I didn't compromise on.
Things I didn't know, that I got lucky with - The frame and birdcage were in good shape, so I got lucky. Strongly suggest making sure anything you are considering has good bones to start with. About 10 years ago, I did replace all of my body mounts which were completely shot. This can be done in your garage without taking the body off - so it's completely doable.
Good luck and this forum has been fantastic for me over the years - better than any shop manual
My '69 L-46 was a rescue of sorts and was maybe the 14th one I looked at and I was getting really discouraged until I found something really nice so I'd say don't settle or compromise.
I've had it 9 years now and have been perfectly happy with it the way it is, it zips around town just fine without me having to shovel $$$ into it. Unfortunately it developed a rat-a-tat-tat and it looks like the exhaust lobe on #2 is going. I've got the thing stripped right down. NOW I get to shovel $$$$ at it
Virtually every car I've looked at has the engine rebuilt or whatever with no receipts. That was the case here and I was pleasantly surprised to find it really was! Go figure. I'm looking at AFR, Brodix and Trickflow heads, want a mild street cam and will give it a set of headers. I'll likely go with Highflow Performance and tuck the under the OEM side exhaust covers. Personally I would have preferred to just keep it the way it was but as they say, when you come to the fork in the road .... take it.
IF i was looking for a C3 right now I would consider the 74-77s the most likely candidates. I've had a 68 for 41 years but the 68-72 prices are downright ridiculous and I would not even consider them (nor those half rubber 73s).
As far as the powertrain don't even worry about it. Get the best body & frame you can find for the best price. You can always upgrade the engine and the tranny and the power choices nowadays are fantastic and better than anything from 60s and 70s. I would narrow my choices down to 74 & 75 because of smog limitations where I reside .
If you find an automatic get it - that makes it easier to swap out the tranny anyway. AND not only that but there are some fantastic automatic trannys out there that are faster shifting than any manual contraption....... but that's neither here nor there. Just get the best body and frame you can get. Those 74 and 75 SBC drivetrains are pretty much disposable and the cars look wonderful
There are zero emissions regulations in my area ,for old cars. I can do whatever I want. The only issue is, I want to be careful of too much exhaust noise. I'll keep it within reason. I'll mainly drive a C3 as a local cruiser. Maybe the odd regional road trip, 3-4 hours drive. I don't really want head-aches from loud exhaust on a hi-way trip. If I can find a stock L-82 engine core, for a decent price I think I'd buy it. Tear it down, hot tank it, crack test, and start measuring. Then build up from there. While I am building the engine, I keep looking for right 74-77 C3.
Last edited by Piersonpie; Feb 13, 2026 at 07:56 PM.



















