....In with the new (pics)
#61
Race Director
Thread Starter
wiring time....
well time to hook up the wiring kit for the 700r4...went over the kit tonight and looked under dash should not be too hard....my brake light switch has two connections on it....one with a white wire and two orange wires and one with a red wire and a pink wire...I have looked at my wiring diagram and looks like one of the orange wires is the power lead to the stop lamps....so i think i can tap into either of the orange wires...i also have a connection with a red wire and a pink wire...this must have had something to do with the cruise control , the pink wire is cut and abandoned...i can't find this on the wiring diagram..it is probably there just can't see worth crap anymore... its the over 40 thing...Can any one confirm the orange wires are the leads to the brake lights and the white wire is the "supply line"..
heres the kit
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heres the kit
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#62
Race Director
Thread Starter
well with the help of all of you i figured out the wiring for the 700r4 relay but i did not do that tonight....i wanted to turn some wrenches so here is what i did in three hours...installed fuel pump and line, installed power steering pump, installed Alternator, hooked up lines from rack and pinion unit to power steering pump....
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only one question for you steeroids guys is this how your PWR steering high pressure line looks? it seems kind of close to the lower control arm? any thoughts?
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[IMG][/IMG]
only one question for you steeroids guys is this how your PWR steering high pressure line looks? it seems kind of close to the lower control arm? any thoughts?
[IMG][/IMG]
#64
Race Director
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by EDDIEJ82
Bob, looks like your getting close now
listed in generic order of importance
A. paint water & ac radiators, install lockout wiring, fix core support, paint shroud, paint core support, paint radiator bracketry, tighten up gas line, tighten up pwr steering pressure hose, double check/tighten tie rods, put tape on vacuum hoses like original.
B. prime oil pump a 2nd time, install distr, r/r wiper washer motor, install exhaust headers; install wiring on alt,starter,dist,and senders; install belts
C. fabricate horn ground harness, install radiator and shroud, install trans cooler lines, hook up vaccum lines to engine, install fan & pulley
install exhaust, double check neutral safety switch, install consol side cover,install seats, hook up gas lines..
D....gentlemen start your engines....Sunday 1/16
Last edited by bobs77vet; 01-04-2005 at 04:04 PM.
#66
Race Director
Thread Starter
crossedflags, thks for the nice comments...ok midnight again which means i'm here to report on my accomplishments...cross off of list tightening fuel line, and painting radiator shroud. Squarely into repairing radiator core support....
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shroud after painting rustoleum satin black
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replaced retaining nut that was ruined by busted bolt by mig welding in new nut
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before shots of core support
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[IMG][/IMG]
after some grinding
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
what gauge steel do you guys use to repair this 18 ga or 20 ga? i'm thinking 18 ga is what i want to use...any thoughts? tomorrow night maybe some cleaning/painting on radiators and more metal work on core support....
[IMG][/IMG]
shroud after painting rustoleum satin black
[IMG][/IMG]
replaced retaining nut that was ruined by busted bolt by mig welding in new nut
[IMG][/IMG]
before shots of core support
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
after some grinding
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
what gauge steel do you guys use to repair this 18 ga or 20 ga? i'm thinking 18 ga is what i want to use...any thoughts? tomorrow night maybe some cleaning/painting on radiators and more metal work on core support....
Last edited by bobs77vet; 01-05-2005 at 12:23 AM.
#67
Race Director
Thread Starter
small bite out of the elephant tonight only 45 mins....
paint radiator
[IMG][/IMG]
paint radiator
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#68
Melting Slicks
hey bob, i missed the boat on "zero clearance", can u enlighten me on it? how $ and where do u get it at? most impressive job you've got going there, exciting ain't it? keep on keeping on
#69
Race Director
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by rosslato
hey bob, i missed the boat on "zero clearance", can u enlighten me on it? how $ and where do u get it at? most impressive job you've got going there, exciting ain't it? keep on keeping on
www.coolandquiet.com
product info
https://www.coolandquiet.com/product_detail.cfm?Prod=4
its a heavy foil faced heat barrier made for external applications to reduce interior heat with self adhesive on the mounting side...cost with shipping is $74.20.. can't remember the sixe of the sheet (42x48) but its enough to cover the floor pan area, i also have a trans tunnel insulation piece up there...this stuff is very impressive and the edges are very sharp when you are cutting it so wear gloves....i then used foil tape to cover all the seams...after cover those areas i have some left and will use that under the exhaust pipes when they get installed...
Last edited by bobs77vet; 01-06-2005 at 12:13 PM.
#70
Race Director
Thread Starter
well very productive 2 1/4 hours tonight...all the kids @ wife went to sleep early and i got stuff done...cross off list install horns, installed tape on vacuum hoses, cross of tighten pwr steering hose, cleaned and painted radiator support bracketry and hood hinges, figured out all vacuum hose to engine connections.... repaired alternator harness...
first painting of bracketry, like signguy said many light coats....
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[IMG][/IMG]
first painting of bracketry, like signguy said many light coats....
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#71
Melting Slicks
thanx bob
#72
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I notice you have both the tall and short valve covers installed in your pictures. I have the tall covers installed on my motor, from the previous owner, and they can cause a problem trying to size the alternator belt. The alternator will not rotate far enough forward with the tall covers on for the stock belt size and you will find you don't have much adjustment before the alternator crowns and you can't tighten a longer belt any more. My new belt is tight enough to drive the alternator but just, and I had to pull the pulley off to install the thing anyway. This is after burning up the old alternator because the stock belt, again the previous owner, was way too tight. I'm goint to the short covers in the spring.
#73
Race Director
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 1tuffref
I notice you have both the tall and short valve covers installed in your pictures. I have the tall covers installed on my motor, from the previous owner, and they can cause a problem trying to size the alternator belt. The alternator will not rotate far enough forward with the tall covers on for the stock belt size and you will find you don't have much adjustment before the alternator crowns and you can't tighten a longer belt any more. My new belt is tight enough to drive the alternator but just, and I had to pull the pulley off to install the thing anyway. This is after burning up the old alternator because the stock belt, again the previous owner, was way too tight. I'm goint to the short covers in the spring.
yup same problem here....luckily i have the old crappy looking tall morosos and the too large alternator belt to go with them...i use these just to stop stuff from falling in the engine...we remove the valve covers to get the belt on/off.... and then the new short polished aluminum ones for when all the adjustments are made, and also a solid billet aluminum M/C cap...those will be the final crowning touches when its all done....i'm even thinking of using the old crappy wires and dist cap until i have the valves adjusted so any oil spray doesn't get my new spark plug wires dirty...is that **** or what?
#74
Drifting
Originally Posted by 1tuffref
I notice you have both the tall and short valve covers installed in your pictures. I have the tall covers installed on my motor, from the previous owner, and they can cause a problem trying to size the alternator belt. The alternator will not rotate far enough forward with the tall covers on for the stock belt size and you will find you don't have much adjustment before the alternator crowns and you can't tighten a longer belt any more. My new belt is tight enough to drive the alternator but just, and I had to pull the pulley off to install the thing anyway. This is after burning up the old alternator because the stock belt, again the previous owner, was way too tight. I'm goint to the short covers in the spring.
I solved this problem with a chrome universal one from autozone It fits fine and they are a little longer than a stock one. I can put my belt on without without removing the alt and it gets it off my tall covers. With the stock adjuster bracket it would fit but the alt had to rest on the cover to get the bolt in.
#75
Team Owner
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Location: Diesel smoke Makes me horny
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08
you guys on this forum continue to impress the hell oughta me, with bobs corvette expertise AND computer genious. bob can you do mine now??
#76
Race Director
Thread Starter
who ever would have thought working on British Sports car would pay off
gr8wht thanks for the nice comments although really i am just like the rest of you.
well for all those nights where it took hours to do minutes of work i made up for it tonight (1 hrs worth of work)....thank you corvette gods...tonights mission to fabricate the repair panels for the radiator core support...funny thing is I actually miss the metal body work that goes along with restoring non fiberglass cars....heres the steps...
first we make a template
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clamp it down to cut
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clamp it down to make first bend
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tap it down with a hammer
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final product
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now we put it in a "c channel" to make next bend..you guys in Canada will be happy to see your country on the c channel...did you know that when i lived in Cleveland they taught the kids in school your national anthem...i guess they wanted to be ready for the invasion..
[IMG][/IMG]
i'll finish in next post...
well for all those nights where it took hours to do minutes of work i made up for it tonight (1 hrs worth of work)....thank you corvette gods...tonights mission to fabricate the repair panels for the radiator core support...funny thing is I actually miss the metal body work that goes along with restoring non fiberglass cars....heres the steps...
first we make a template
[IMG][/IMG]
clamp it down to cut
[IMG][/IMG]
clamp it down to make first bend
[IMG][/IMG]
tap it down with a hammer
[IMG][/IMG]
final product
[IMG][/IMG]
now we put it in a "c channel" to make next bend..you guys in Canada will be happy to see your country on the c channel...did you know that when i lived in Cleveland they taught the kids in school your national anthem...i guess they wanted to be ready for the invasion..
[IMG][/IMG]
i'll finish in next post...
Last edited by bobs77vet; 01-08-2005 at 12:32 AM.
#77
Race Director
Thread Starter
here it is be bent down
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this is what it looks like
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here it is in place
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this is a little more difficult
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and here it is formed into place
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and lastly the bottom right corner
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ok when the house gets quiet and everyones asleep i will go out side and MIG weld up the pieces....talk to you at 1am...
[IMG][/IMG]
this is what it looks like
[IMG][/IMG]
here it is in place
[IMG][/IMG]
this is a little more difficult
[IMG][/IMG]
and here it is formed into place
[IMG][/IMG]
and lastly the bottom right corner
[IMG][/IMG]
ok when the house gets quiet and everyones asleep i will go out side and MIG weld up the pieces....talk to you at 1am...
Last edited by bobs77vet; 01-07-2005 at 09:22 PM.
#78
Race Director
Thread Starter
once again tomorrow....had an opportunity to tack weld down the pieces....
first spray area and bottom side of repair piece with cold galvanizing compound
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clamp down piece
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now start to tack weld every 1/2 or so...
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other side
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when welding is done hit the areas with cupped wire brush mounted in a 4 1/2 hand held grinder. now some guys here are great welders....not me.... but i do ok....so don't be scared to try this you get better at it the more you do it....
[IMG][/IMG]
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tomorrow ....finish welding in between Tack welds....
first spray area and bottom side of repair piece with cold galvanizing compound
[IMG][/IMG]
clamp down piece
[IMG][/IMG]
now start to tack weld every 1/2 or so...
[IMG][/IMG]
other side
[IMG][/IMG]
when welding is done hit the areas with cupped wire brush mounted in a 4 1/2 hand held grinder. now some guys here are great welders....not me.... but i do ok....so don't be scared to try this you get better at it the more you do it....
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
tomorrow ....finish welding in between Tack welds....
Last edited by bobs77vet; 01-08-2005 at 09:12 PM.
#79
Safety Car
Boy Bob, I'm impressed. Especially that you still find time to spend with us while you've got all that work to do. I'm glad my engine compartment looks OK the way it is. I see you've got the same $20 Harbor Freight angle grinder I have. They work a lot better than the expensive Makitas. All your hard work gives the rest of us encouragement to get the job done. John
#80
Race Director
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jdmick
I see you've got the same $20 Harbor Freight angle grinder I have. They work a lot better than the expensive Makitas.