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If you're within a 1/2 inch, then the input shaft is just not getting in the pilot bearing, it's already through the clutch. Moving the rear of the tranny around causes big changes in the input shaft location. Make small wiggles. Did you check the pilot bearing and shaft fit? Chamfering (or sanding) the inner lip of the pilot bearing may help. Good luck, but don't crank it down.
If you're within a 1/2 inch, then the input shaft is just not getting in the pilot bearing, it's already through the clutch. Moving the rear of the tranny around causes big changes in the input shaft location. Make small wiggles. Did you check the pilot bearing and shaft fit? Chamfering (or sanding) the inner lip of the pilot bearing may help. Good luck, but don't crank it down.
Jim
Jim,
thanks for the advice. I have been shaking it pretty hard (frustration)
As I suggested earlier, loosen the bellhousing so that while your putting the trans in you can tweak the whole thing so the tail slides right into the pilot pushing. Worked great for me. I had 1/2" - 1/4" that wouldn't go in also.
EAT YOUR WHEATIES!! If you use your head and some patience you can use the bolts to draw it in I DO!! Have to do it almost every time and have NEVER broken an ear off yet.....
.....redvetracr
As I suggested earlier, loosen the bellhousing so that while your putting the trans in you can tweak the whole thing so the tail slides right into the pilot pushing. Worked great for me. I had 1/2" - 1/4" that wouldn't go in also.
I was about to try that last night, I will give it a try.
I indicate all of my bellhousings to the crankshafts now, I ran across a block that was out .200" the only way to get the trans. in was to draw it in with the bolts or studs as suggested. It kept breaking the ears off of the transmissions (while being run) until the runnout was repaired. This can be done with offset dowels on the back of the block. The info that comes with the dowels call for <.003 runnout of the bell housing, I have never checked one that was in tolerance to start with. Once this is corrected if it was out bad you won't believe the vibrations that will be eliminated. Good luck with your repair.
Lotus76, I can't remember the lengths of the ballstuds but I think the stock length is 1 3/8" (don't quote me though). I am sure if you do a forum search the lengths are in a thread somewhere. Sorry I couldn't help more.
Did the same conversion, had the same problem: That stupid plastic (mis)alignment-tool that came with the LuK-Kit seemed to be the culprit. Also pulled the tranny in with the bolts carefully.
Second time I removed the tranny and reinstalled (because the first tranny failed), it slid right in.
Good luck... and by the way: GOOOOOOOOOOD decision to convert. Best thing I ever did to my 72. Totally different car, better throttle response, more power, more fun. The last step now for me would be the Tremec TKO 5-speed. I could go Porsche-hunting on our Autobahn then...
If the car is high on jack stands, you have enough room to man handle the tranny. 4 speed trannies are not that heavy. Just go for it.
Once you get it up and in (except for the 1/2 inch) place a long rod (smaller than bolt) through one of the top holes into the bellhousing. Have someone depress the clutch. Supporting the front of the tranny with that rod in one hand, manipulate the tail of the tranny until it stabs in.
A second man can have a second rod in the other top hole as well.
Thank You to everyone that answered this post for all your support and ideas.
It took every one of them to get this thing together.
This last time I
1. begin the alinement with locater studs
2. wiggled trans while pushing in the clutch pedal
3. switched out studs and carefully drew in trans by slowly turning trans bolts in as I wiggled and had clutch pulsed by my 12 year old
after first few turns things got easy.