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Old Feb 6, 2005 | 08:01 PM
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Default Looking for a better way !

I've been trying to get the BOLT that holds the rear trailing arm to the frame (in the front) The BOLT is stuck fast inside the "bushing sleeve". I've drown it with PB Blaster, (the nut is off) & I can't even drive it out with a BIG hammer. It's loose in the frame holes, & the shims are out, But it won't let go of the bushing sleeve! Anyone run into this before & come up with a "Better Way "? Thanks for any suggestions.
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Old Feb 6, 2005 | 08:04 PM
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That's exactly why I didn't want to drop mine! Most have said they have cut it out with a sawzall with a metal blade and just buy another bolt. Good Luck! Why are you taking it off?
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Old Feb 6, 2005 | 08:06 PM
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Very normal typical issue. A sawzal does the trick. Not as bad as people say. Just have some fresh blades on hand.
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Old Feb 6, 2005 | 08:14 PM
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Theres actually room to get a sawzall in there?
I Had a helluva time just getting my head in the wheelwell just to be able to see up in where the bushing is ! It's gotta come out, because evidently this cars had a bent trailing arm from a wreck 20 years ago. wheel bearings are shot, so I might as well just rebuild one & replace it as a unit. Thanks
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Old Feb 6, 2005 | 08:17 PM
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I agree, it's a very common issue. I have 3 C3's and 2 of the 3 the bolts came out, the third was rust seized in the bushing sleeve. No amount of PB baster will get it off if it's that bad. I used both a torch and sawzall to remove. If you use a torch you have to be very careful with the fuel lines on the other side of the frame rail.
Gary
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Old Feb 6, 2005 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Glasspacked
Theres actually room to get a sawzall in there?
I Had a helluva time just getting my head in the wheelwell just to be able to see up in where the bushing is ! It's gotta come out, because evidently this cars had a bent trailing arm from a wreck 20 years ago. wheel bearings are shot, so I might as well just rebuild one & replace it as a unit. Thanks
Yes there is, just get everything out of the way that you can...eg Shocks. Use a bright light and make sure you have something low to sit on. You will be there for a while but you will get it. Cut close to each side of the trailing arm. Some people even had to cut through the shims..you are ahead of the game. Just keep working at it, take breaks. PS....I cut more than I had too, I did not realize that I had sawed through the bolt and was into part of the outer bushing...until I gave the TA a kick in frustration and it broke free.

Last edited by Retro78; Feb 6, 2005 at 08:32 PM.
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Old Feb 6, 2005 | 08:34 PM
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Make sure that you have the trailing arm supported so that the weight of the arm is not hanging on the bolt. Sometimes the repeated pounding from a rivit gun will break them loose.
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Old Feb 6, 2005 | 08:36 PM
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Old Feb 6, 2005 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by topless68

That's exactly what I bought.... works sooo good....

I started on one side, removed the shims (which took hours..) - then I had to cut the bolt... on the second trailing arm I cut right through the shims and the bolt.... wonderful tool....

Replace the shims/bolts/nuts/pins with stainless... just in case you ever have to get it apart again...
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