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I put in a new clutch and hooked everything back up and now the pedal is nearly going to the floor before it just barely engages. Whats up with that. I moved the two nut as far as i can that adjusts the clutch. What happend
My buddies mom delivers auto parts i got it from her its stock stuff no performance aftermarket and i do not want to take my trann out again just put in an adjustable ball pivot(pics?) Is it possible it needs to be moved a little so kind of settle in?
I put in a new clutch and hooked everything back up and now the pedal is nearly going to the floor before it just barely engages. Whats up with that. I moved the two nut as far as i can that adjusts the clutch. What happend
Do you have the trow out bearing / clutch fork engaged properly? You may have the bearing behind the spring clip.
Its in the right spot. Everything has to be right it just sems the distance from the flywheel to the tops of the presure plate fingers is shorter so it has to move further to engage.
Anyway i am planning on going to a t56 and hydrolic clutch set up anyway so if i have to i will just lengthen one of the rods i'm not going to takethat stuf apart again when bubba can save me.
I ran into the same problem. Can't say why rhe geometry changed but my clutch rod needed to be 1.5 in longer to get adjustment correct. I bubbaed it by replacing the clutch rod with a length of angle iron until I can fab up a prettier solution. No way I'm paying $60 for a $6 part.
Flywheel surface measurement is key in clutch alignment...We've all been through this, and on my Centerforce, I found that the measurement of 4.75" that is required for the pivotball to the face of the bellhousing that meets the block is crucial. But its actually based on 4.75" to the face of the flywheel, and centerforce even bases this measurement on a 0.950" flywheel. My Hays billet flywheel measures 0.990", I had to use a shorter pivotball rather than the adjustable or 1/8" taller pivot ball. Clutch works great!