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Just removed my upper & lower control arms. I've read a paper from a forum member on how to remove/install bushings yourself, but I'm too busy (and lazy). Will a "regular" garage know how to press out and replace the bushings or must I visit a "Vette" specialty mechanic?
Thanks in advance,
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
P.S. - How the heck do you remove the lower ball joint from the control arm? I've split it from the spindle, but can't get it to come loose from the arm...
Last edited by 74FLCONV; Mar 21, 2005 at 11:24 PM.
P.S. - How the heck do you remove the lower ball joint from the control arm? I've split it from the spindle, but can't get it to come loose from the arm...[/QUOTE]
If the those ball joints are original they're riveted in place.
The upper balljoint is riveted (mine have been replaced previously and were bolted). The lower ball joint has one bolt sticking thru the control arm. Removed the bolt/lock-washer and whacked away with zero results.
Upper ball joints rarely wear, thus rarely need replacing...the wear and tear is on the lower ball joint. If the joints been lubed, then it is not necessary to replace the uppers.
Quit whacking!! There is that nut on top but it has 2 rivets as well. Angle grind carefully or lots of drilling starting small. Uppers may not wear, but while you're in there, might as well.
Just removed my upper & lower control arms. I've read a paper from a forum member on how to remove/install bushings yourself, but I'm too busy (and lazy). Will a "regular" garage know how to press out and replace the bushings or must I visit a "Vette" specialty mechanic?
Thanks in advance,
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
P.S. - How the heck do you remove the lower ball joint from the control arm? I've split it from the spindle, but can't get it to come loose from the arm...
I would at least take it to someone who knows what they are doing. You can bend the shafts and/or the arm.
Last edited by Van Steel; Mar 22, 2005 at 09:09 AM.
Quit whacking!! There is that nut on top but it has 2 rivets as well. Angle grind carefully or lots of drilling starting small. Uppers may not wear, but while you're in there, might as well.
Good luck,
Chris
Ahhh....I stand corrected.
The front end of my car shakes like a bowl of jello resting on a fat man's beer-gut. Going to change-out everything.
I would not let any one that didn't know about problems replacing bushing touch my A arms. They are very delicate and you can NOT just push the bushings out or in without proper support. I would rather cut the old ones out with a drill, a hole saw or a hawksaw or burn them out, polish the A arm bores really well and hand press new poly pushing in.
Just because a shop has a press doesn't mean they can do the job.
Ask them how they support the A arm?? It will bend without proper support.
I've read a paper from a forum member on how to remove/install bushings yourself, but I'm too busy (and lazy).
..[/i]
Hello, I have the "Paper" that Lars sent me, I can forward it to you if you send me your e-mail address.
Real quick though, to get the upper and lower control arm bushings out, I drilled a bunch of holes in the rubber and slid out the bar. This left the outer part of the bushings which I then put penetrating oil on, and used a thin sharp chisel to tap in between the bushing flange and the control arm. I did this around the bushing several times and it slowly worked out. This does not bend or damage the control arm.
Hello, I have the "Paper" that Lars sent me, I can forward it to you if you send me your e-mail address.
Thanks, I've already got it and have followed it to the letter. When I got to the part about removing the bushings, that's when I decided I was too lazy. I don't have a workbench with a vise.
The GM Shop Manual shows a special tool that is used to support the a-frames BETWEEN the bushing bores so that the arm does not bend when pressure is applied to install the new bushings. This tool can be made from pieces of pipe. Without proper support BETWEEN the bushing "eyes", you (or your mechanic) will bend the arms. If your chosen shop is not aware of the issue, they will bend the arms.
After your new bushings are installed, the shafts should rotate freely. If they don't then the arms are bent.
Edit... I bought the tool around 1975 and it works pretty good. The lower frame eyes are separate unlike most frames, and the tool has inserts for these eyes so they don't bend either. FYI
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Keep in mind that there is nothing "special" about Corvette control arms - they're plain ol' standard GM arms just like any other GM car. Anyone who does bushing replacement on a regular basis can knock out the bushings and replace them with no problem. Most automotive machine shops do this on a regular basis and have the equipment to do the job correctly - just ask them if they do this type of work often and if they have the tools to do it. If they make it sound like a difficult job, they don't have the right setup. If they tell you it's a simple thing and it's no problem, you got the right place.
Like Lars said - find someone who knows what they are doing.
I thought I didn't want to tackle getting them out. My mistake.
When my lower arms came back, the machine shop had pushed
a chisel head right through one of the bores. They returned it
to me like that. I was pissed, but let it go. No longer do I send
anything out. I had to MIG up the slice and grind the bore back
to correct.
Find someone in the area that has done their own. Once you do
one set - it becomes quite easy - even without a vice.
I have vices, but not the kind you find on a workbench.
No problem to ease them out with a torch and an air chisel.