There is more to the Vortec heads than just the combustion chamber. That is why a different intake is needed. Some dealers will drill and tap holes to use an older style intake. The problem is the way runners then line up. The Vortec heads have the intake runners raised somewhat giving a straighter shot to the valves. The downside to Vortec heads is they have to be modified when going to a cam with more than .480 lift. Crane makes a spring that will allow up to .550 lift and the only tool needed is a valve spring compressor to change them. If you're going to be running a cam with a lift closer to .550, then chances are that these heads may not be the best choice anyway. I wish GM would set the heads up with a spring that would allow a little more lift so that additional cams could be used.
Until someone shows flow data or dyno data of the GMPP Vortecs versus the Summit heads, I would stay with the Vortecs. There is plenty of info showing that these flow better than any other head in it's price range and flow better than a lot of heads costing more.

 

A good thread from nastyz28.com

http://www.nastyz28.com/ubb/Forum5/HTML/012542.html

 

worth repeating.
Canfields are $950 and worth it imo

 

I'm running a Edelbrock Q-Jet 1904. It's not a bad carb, just needs to be tuned properly. They are setup lean at the factory. I will be playing around with jets and metering rods soon as the weather breaks. Demon carbs are pretty decent from what I hear. But I never dealt with one. I'm eventually going to switch over to Tuned Port injection, so I don't have to deal with the quirks of carburation. Good Luck!
Darryl

 

I agree..... but the carb was special order from Elderbrock, shipped to my house.... saved almost $100.00.... I drove my firebird to autozone to order the carb!!!!

 

I'm runnin a set of Vortecs on our '79 Z28 and LOVE EM!
I bought em used and had em checked and swapped a set of LT4 springs that will handle up to .525 lift.

even with buying a new Professional Products intake, I still have less that $800.00 in the swap.

Also, if you don't want to fool with adaptors or relocating the temp sender, GP Sorensen part number TSU64 temp send works great! It has the correct threads for the Vortec heads and still has the single pin needed for the original temp sending wire.

I'm runnin a Comp Cams 268H cam with .218 duration and .454 lift. I think the Vortecs would like a little more cam than that and if I did it again I would go with a something just a smotch bigger.

One of the secrets most guys have learned about the Vortec heads is not to run any more than 32 degrees total timing in lieu of the 36-38 degrees most SBCs like.

I guarantee the Vortecs will put a smile on your face.

Our once 185 HP weakling Z28 will now smoke the rear tires as long as you want when you nail her from a 30 MPH roll! Its totally amazing the amount of torque that those heads will make!

BTW, I just remembered that I'm still running the stock manifolds and the factory 2-1-2 exhaust pipe also. I bet a set of header and free flowing exhaust would find another 20 ponies.

 

Just read the comparison above

Where can you buy Trick Flow 23 degree aluminum heads complete for $850.00?

I recently bought another set of Vortecs for $175.00 for the set (not typical but there are deals out there).
They were complete with the rockers (the Vortecs come with self aligning rockers).

I spend about $46.00 for a set of LT4 springs and titanium retainers from Scoggins Dickey. Spend another $120.00 at the local machine shop to have the heads checked and the springs swapped.

So, another $80.00 for gaskets and bolts and another $180.00 for an intake and I'll have $600 in another Vortec setup for the 383 going into my wagon. Hard to beat it in my opionion.

 

Someone posted that link before. It's old and very biased. Many people who are doing their first upgrade will purchase an aluminun intake, so that takes that out of the equation. If they go with roller rockers, the self-aligning rockers are essentailly the same cost as non-aligning. Valve springs are only needed if a cam larger the .480 is being used. The Vortecs were designed to give maximum torque at lower lifts. They make gobs of power with lower lift cams, that is what their application was engineered for. Once word got out, higher performance street engines were getting these. Then people started to rag on them due to the limited lift that can be used (including myself at times); however, they were never designed to flow more at higher (.500) lifts. I don't recall hearing anyone complain that they did perform as intened and are considered the best bang for the buck.

 

Thanx for the info Dwayne..and i will most likely go with roller rockers when i finally decide to go with the Vortec heads(get enough money). OH..and thanx for the tip on timing..should come in handy.

Thats a hell of a deal u got there on those heads too..i hope i can find something like that. Did you get 'em from a boneyard or somewhere else? There are plenty here in Baytown, but Im gonna wait for the money to come in before i even start to look..i dont want to get too far ahead of myself.

Im thinking i might go with the Edelbrock Performance intake also..but not too sure about that yet. Wow..there is still so much i have to think about ..haha..All in good fun..

 

You've posted those before if I remember correctly. Do you have any dyno data or an article with dyno data. I like the theoretical look of those Summit heads but until someone proves it to me with dyno data I'm still skeptical. We are talking real money afterall to make this work well the FIRST time.

 

I don't need dyno data. I can use the "black patch" data just fine:

1-2 shift before: a nice chirp, perhaps a bark
1-2 shift after: lay a patch of rubber as the car slides slightly to the left from all the torque

Not bad for a total expenditure of under a thousand bucks.

If you're a racer and are worried about getting every extra 100th of a second in the quarter-mile, do not buy these heads. They are street heads designed to enhance midrange performance.

If you're a driver looking for good midrange power that's easy on the wallet...go for it! I spent real money and I got real results. I'm happy.

The vortecs will provide similar results -- pehaps even slightly better -- but I wanted to keep my stock manifold, and I was also concerned about valve lift issues.

 

Before you buy check Scoggin-Dickey out of Texas.I got the complete top end.(Heads intake all hardware and gaskets)shipped to my house for well under $900.00.Forget the exact price,it was in the middle 8's.Best money I every spent.Went on a 71Z/28.I wanted to save the orginal engine so I got a fresh 350/350 and added the vortecs

 

Uh oh the cam i bought for the vortecs is a .488 exaust should i take it back and get a smaller one?

 

There's no question that it will have to be checked. Some places will not allow returns on items that are opened up.
You have several options: 1.) Return the cam for something with a little less lift. 2.) Upgrade the springs in the heads that will allow more lift 3.) Install the components to see if there is any coil binding or if the retainer/keeper contacts the guide/seal.

 

http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/2060...ve-Springs.htm

http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/3533...Spring-Kit.htm


I would keep the cam and upgrade the springs. The Z28 springs above should work perfect. I used the LT4 springs in both sets that i've had set up. They dropped right in, on the second set, the spring pockets had to be openned up just a bit for them to fit.
A lot of guys use the Z28 springs in the Vortec and they should be fine for your cam.

BTW, I would definately not go to a smaller cam with the Vortecs. Read my previous post. I'm runnin a Comp Cam 268H with .454 lift, and the Vortecs definately want more cam.

 

Did my 78 two years ago. I already had a L88 aftermarket hood on it so clearance wasn't a problem. I installed the old 350/350 GM Cam. Vortec Heads with Edelbrock intake. My pictures show anAccel distributor with coil. I've since put on a Mallory Set Up (Much Better). It is topped off with a 670 CFM Holley Street Avenger Carb. I am also running Hooker Jet Coated Headers and true dual Flowmasters with no cat. I don't know what the exact horsepower is but believe me it really woke up the old girl. Best mods I ever did to her.

 

The question was "Vortec worth it??". I believe information such as that provided in the link I posted is applicable to the question. That one article provides more information about the Vortec head than all the posts in this thread combined.
There's no need for anyone to defend their choosing of the Vortec heads. It's well known that they are really good heads for certain applications. The article was written in 2001 and reflects prices for brand new parts from that year. It's obvious that you might find used stuff for less money.

In 2001 I picked up a pair of new Vortec heads that had supposedly been removed from a new Vortec crate engine. Included in the deal was a new Comp Cams 280H and a set of new Summit brand stamped steel roller tipped rockers. All for $400. Seemed like a killer deal.
Eventually I found out that the rocker arms wouldn't work because they were not self-aligning. Then I learned about the limitations of the stock valve spring. The Comp Cams 280H cam has a .480 lift. This was too close for comfort. I was going to have to purchase a set of center bolt valve covers. The Vortec compatible intakes cost more than the old style. Vortec heads have no provision for EGR. At the time, my car had to have an EGR valve to pass the states visual inspection of emission equipment.
I finally decided it wasn't worth it so I sold them to a friend for $400 and purchased a pair of fully loaded Trick Flow heads for $850. By the time he had the heads on his engine, he had spent over $750 total to make the Vortec heads work. They work well but if he had it to do over he would have just purchased the Trick Flow heads. Roughly the same power increase but a LOT easier.
So far the Trick Flow heads have served me well. I don't feel the need to convince others that they should run use Trick Flow heads just so I can justify my choice. There's a lot of good heads available. Collect and compare the information and you will find the right ones for you.

 

The link that was posted was written with the intention of showing that switching to trick flow heads was about the same as it would cost to go with Vortecs. That may be the case in some instances. As stated before, many people upgrading heads will also being changing the intake. If they have a stock L-48 they will more than likey also change the valve covers. Centerbolt valve covers also seal better so the chance of leaky valve covers is less. I would also recommend changing rockers and push rods in either case. With the trick flows hardened push rods would be needed, not an option.They have to changed and they are more expensive. The cost of new push rods was never factored into the price of the link.
For someone who only wants and needs heads and nothing else, then the Vortecs may not be the best choice. If they are planning on changing intake, valve covers, etc. then the Vortecs will save them almost $600. The $600 price differnce in heads will allow them to get everything else plus a new camshaft/lifters as well. Almost seems like a no brainer when comparing the Vortecs to the trick flows.

$1100 For Trick flow heads and you got a set of heads
$1100 For Vortec heads and you get heads, alum intake, valve covers, push rods, alum roller rockers, camshaft, lifters

 

Where do I get these Votec heads, alum intake, rockers , lifters, cam shaft for $1100?

 

From my previous post

I know that its not often that you can find a set of used Vortecs for $175.00 But I've seen em availible often for $350.00 with the rockers.

So it could be done for $775.00 - $850.00 which would leave $325.00 to $250.00 for cam and lifters.

But, probably not with aluminum rockers and new push rods.