both I have heard alot of tragic stories about flywheels breaking apart. IMO, i would spend the extra $ and get a new one and know that there is no question on strength when it comes to that type of rotational mass.

 

yep...I'm begiining to agree...aluminum (bellhousing) and fiberglass(floorboard) won't stop much at 500mph (flywheel parts)
I appreciate all the input and will start looking for a replacement flywheel

 

i'd check with the disc maker if the new one scrapes too. if they say it's OK, i'd try different braND BOLTS, w/loctite red, no star

 

Hi

Didn't we mention in your previous post ( or wasn't that you ? ) that the new ARP bolts are installed without washers and are still thinner at the head than the original bolts ?
Why didn't you first try those before milling your flywheel ?

Of topics : Why is a scattershield so urgently required ? The flywheel sits way forward of the cabin, I think even forward of your feet.
If it gives up, pieces should fly outwards and should not make it into the cabin, or ?

Günther

 

When a flywheel lets go it's like chain saw and you can't really predict where it will cut through. If you are gonna drive like a granny, then you can get by with a factory aluminum housing and a factory flywheel. For anything else, an NHRA-approved flywheel and Lakewood blowproof housing should be installed. Would you really want the nickname of "gimpy" or "pegleg"?

Dep

 

ok...I think you guys have scared me enough into spending more money for another flywheel...As poor as I am, I don't wanna be called peg leg

 

Good idea gimpy!!! LOL...just kiddin'

Dep

 

There would be a lot more than flywheel chunks coming out of there - there would likely be pieces of clutch, pressure plate + bell housing, too. You are right, the flywheel is well forward, but there is no way to predict exactly how it would come undone. At the very least, anything from the knee down would be in great jeopardy.

 

Hey, did somebody call me stupid?

 

jk

 

Sorry, I've been away at an autocross race and haven't been able to check this thread for a while (I won but the 72 LT-1 stayed home and I dorve my wife's 02 Z06 for the win, winning is much easier when the car is "helping" you to drive!) The L-88 flywheel is about $160 at GM Parts direct (a forum sponser) here is the link: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/perform...CATID=533.html

 

cool...thanks...any price break being that they are a forum sponsor?

 

Good price, but if you want SFI 1.1 spec flywheel for racing, the Hays or Ram unit will set you back $229 from Summit. Up to you, of course

Dep

 

Hays and Ram flywheels are 30-45lbs! so your "throttle response" will suffer with a heavier flywheel but, it will have more stable low end response and launch harder when "spun-up" at the Drag Strip (hard enough to DAMAGE! parts.) Nodular iron is WAY more stable than conventional cast Iron used in most standard flywheels. One point of Corvette history, std motors lkike L-48s recieved std iron flywheels while higher HP motors like, LT-1s had nodular iron flywheels (look on the engine side of the flywheel for a "N" cast into the flywheel along with the GM part number.) I do run a scatter shield and will always run one with this flywheel in my Vette and I will only machine the L-88 flywheel 2-3 times maxium before throwing it away. Many aftermarket flywheels that I have used have been "disappointing" in their clutch engagement performance and I have NEVER had problems running the GM lightweight flywheel. I wouldn't run the L-88 flywheel in a 3.08 geared L-48 Vette but, if you are running a 3.70 gear or Richmond/Tremec 5 speed, I would go ahead and use the L-88 flywheel. The LT-1 standard flywheel is still avalible from GM too if you want the "heavy" flywheel.

 

Thanks SolidLT1...ordered the nodular flywheel today...thanks for all the input folks! So...I can keep walking without the limp!

 

Attaboy gimpy!!

Dep

 

the 153 tooth ring gear, standard flywheel has 168 tooth, you will need to get a different starter for the 153 tooth, consider getting a ministarter which is adjustable for 153 or 168 tooth.

 

thanks...had already converted to the 153 tooth and a high torque mini starter, but appreciate you catching my back! Good to know there are people you have never met face to face that you can depend on!

 

This forum has been a huge help to me and my son's rebuild of a 71. Anytime I am able to return the favors I am glad to do so.

 

I find this thread interesting when you speak about flywheels coming apart. Back in 62 the rules for Drag racing were a little different and I was working fire control ay Charlestown drag strip in RI. When a Henry J with a Pontiac motor blew the clutch in forth gear, well the car had a scatter shield welded to the frame but the flywheel came threw the hood and the clutch and pressure plate took out both fenders and the floor including the throttle pedal. So I am a firm believer in getting the proper setup when it comes to these parts.