just out of my budget
DIY, dist. test machine
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: eville in
Originally Posted by Matt Gruber
while it is faster w/machine, we mostly do it in the engine w/timing light
is about gone
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 690
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From: near Memphis TN
You mean one of those sun machines that reconfigure timing and all that? I think they are obsolete, I doubt anyone makes them anymore.
Something like this? (already sold unfortunetly)
http://www.cornercarlot.com/sun_machine.htm
Something like this? (already sold unfortunetly)
http://www.cornercarlot.com/sun_machine.htm
Last edited by SpyderD; Apr 7, 2005 at 12:18 PM.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: eville in
Originally Posted by lars
They're out there. I bought mine for $75 - Sun machine that's fully functional.
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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I'd love to land me one of those too, same as an old sun engine analyzer, sure is handy and looks good in the shop too. I know a guy who has one but he won't sell it although he's pretty clueless about the operation
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by Hvymtlc5
Wow - haven't seen one of those since shop class back in the mid 70's.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,050
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From: Orange Ct
I've thought about this often. It would be fairly simple to do. 1. design a mounting to hold down the distributor. 2. get a motor with variable speed control (power drill?) to spin it at 2k rpm.(half engine speed) 3. Use an electronic tac like the ones used for model aircraft. 4. put a pointer on the rotor and a degree scale(don't forget to double the readings). You should be able to spin it up and watch the pointer advance with rpm.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Little Rock AR
I have a crazy idea where I use a large camshaft degree wheel and a mighty vac to set the vacuum advance setup and the centrifugal advance amount, then just install and run the distributor with medium springs. Swap the springs up or down with the distributor back in the car so I get the curve to start a few hundred RPM above idle and thats it. Then just road test like usual. 
No fancy machine required.
Never actualy tried that but I see no reason it would not work. In the past I have just eyeballed brazing the slot closed a bit and filing it down to get the curve where I want it but that can method takes a lot more trial and error (time). Maybe next time....
-Mark.
No fancy machine required.Never actualy tried that but I see no reason it would not work. In the past I have just eyeballed brazing the slot closed a bit and filing it down to get the curve where I want it but that can method takes a lot more trial and error (time). Maybe next time....
-Mark.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 4,101
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From: NorCal
The old Sun machines are the way to go. They basically spin it up to any RPM you want and you can set points (remember?), adjust vacuum cans, set mechanical advance, all that good stuff. We had one here, but foolishly sold it for $25 bucks. What a mistake! Find an old timer shop in your area and they may still have one, or ask here and send our your distibutor to a fellow vette nut. I think Lars has one...
Hans
Hans
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From: eville in
Originally Posted by Matt Gruber
i can plot the weights' advance curve with a scale and calipers. just measure the tension to move the advance at various positions