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200 4r and question about lockup.

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Old 04-12-2005, 09:01 PM
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munday
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Default 200 4r and question about lockup.

Do I have to actually spend money and get something from bowtie overdrive or can I just hook up a toggle switch. I don't mind it being manual engage especially for 70 bucks.
Old 04-12-2005, 10:04 PM
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MIKER
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Spending the $70 would be the easiest thing to do.

You can hook up a toggle switch but it might be a pain having to remember to engage it while in 4th and disengage it when coming to a stop. If you leave it engaged for the 1-2, 2-3, and 2-4 shift all the time, the torque converter clutch might have a short lifespan. If I remember correctly, forum member, mrvette, has his connected to a toggle switch and he really likes it that way. Maybe he will chime in to give you the specifics.


As you already know, the desired lock up sequence is:
-unlocked during 1st, 2nd.
-lock up while in 3rd gear is optional but unneeded in my opinion.
-lock up while in 4th gear.
-unlock under heavy load (low vacuum signal)
-unlock when brake pedal is pressed.
You can piece together all of the items needed to make it function correctly. Here's a basic description of the parts you will need:
-vacuum switch that disconnects electrical lockup circuit when vacuum is less than ~6 in. Hg.
-brake switch. You car should already have a disconnect switch that kills the cruise control.
-Pressure switch that activates the clutch when it sees hydraulic pressure for 4th gear.
-O.E. type weather pak electrical connector that will plug into the transmission.

This picture shows the valve body of my 700R4. It's labeled for discussion related to calibrating individual shift points but you can see where the 4th gear pressure switch is screwed into the valve body. The O.E. 2nd and 3rd gear pressure switches have been replaced with threaded plugs.
Old 04-12-2005, 10:55 PM
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redwingvette
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The most important thing is that you run it through the brake switch so it disconnects if you hit the brakes. Remember, when it is locked it is just like having a clutch on a manual trans. I also use a toggle switch to turn it off so I can use 4th gear for driving around town (under 45mph). What happens if you don't have a switch and you end up slower then 40 the engine starts to chug (same as a manual trans if you don't downshift). Factroy installed OD cars are setup so it won't lockup unless it is going over 45mph.200-4R Trans Install
Old 04-12-2005, 11:12 PM
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Schmucker
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The TCI auto lockup kit that I have doesn't have a brake switch. It is capable of being wired in, but they don't mention having to do it. I would assume that the engine would have low enough vacuum when the throttle is closed during braking to disengage the lockup. It is also setup to unlock in any gear but fourth, so it should unlock when coming to a stop just on that. I think everything should work okay.
Old 04-13-2005, 09:29 AM
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Fevre
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I run a toggle switch in my Formula, I like to lock it in 3rd gear under 50 mph (under 3000 rpm's) on back country roads to reduce heat build up, 4th is too low and doesn't allow you to enjoy accelerating out the curves. Once you get used to switching it on and off it is no big deal, the eng will tell you when you forget to turn it off when it shifts from 1st to 2nd.
Old 04-13-2005, 11:25 AM
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UKPaul
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I've taken a simple "temporary" (Bubba?) route with my BTO 200-4r. My C3 has a brake TCC disconnect switch as stock ('81) so all I did was connect the live wire from it direct to terminal D(?) on the trans. What happens is that as soon as it shifts into OD the converter locks & only unlocks if I brake or shift down a gear manually (shifting manually into "3" is something I do if the speed gets below about 60mph as I've been told that the trans doesn't like low rpms in OD, even without the converter locked). The brake switch is a feature that prevents the motor from being stalled under emergency braking ie if you get into a situation where you lock the rear wheels under panic braking then the engine will still be running afterwards.
I was going to fit a toggle switch but somehow never got around to it. Now I'm not sure that I'll bother because in OD I'll probably always run with the converter locked. Fitting a switch will just mean that I'll be flicking a switch as well as changing into/out of OD.
The trans I got has not got an option for a locked converter in the 1st 2 gears, but if 12v is connected to pin C(?) the converter can apparently be locked in "3". I've not bothered with that either as I can't see the point of it (apparently it's useful if the vehicle is used for towing. Towing? In a C3?!).
In short, just running a wire to the trans so that the converter locks as soon as it shifts into OD works just fine, you just need to ensure that you shift out of OD when running at low speeds as the engine can start lugging even without the converter locked (proved by running with my foot on the brake pedal just enough to cut the power to the TCC solenoid).
I'd strongly recommend fitting a switch on the brake pedal though. Rolling down the street in gear without the motor running is a weird feeling (I'm used to stick shifts) & the lack of power steering & brakes could potentially get dangerous.
Old 04-13-2005, 09:04 PM
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aussiejohn
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Default Long time no see

Hi UKPaul,
Haven't seen you in a long time. I guess married life is keeping you off the computer, LOL. It's good to see you back. BTW are you planning to come out here next year for the Commonwealth games, by any chance? A good excuse to leave the cold miserable climate you live in if ever there was one.

Regards from Down Under

aussiejohn
Old 04-14-2005, 12:21 AM
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munday
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Do I have to run the lockup or can I go without for a while? I have to much other crap to get for this car.
Old 04-14-2005, 12:31 AM
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MIKER
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The standard answer is NO because of heat buildup. But I can't help but wonder if you couldn't get away with it IF you were to install a healthy sized inline transmission cooler.
Old 04-14-2005, 12:45 AM
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munday
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Originally Posted by MIKER
The standard answer is NO because of heat buildup. But I can't help but wonder if you couldn't get away with it IF you were to install a healthy sized inline transmission cooler.
i would rather just install a lockup for the price although i have entertained the thought of an aftermarket cooler with fan....don't know where i would put it though....
Old 04-14-2005, 06:03 AM
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UKPaul
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Originally Posted by munday
i would rather just install a lockup for the price although i have entertained the thought of an aftermarket cooler with fan....don't know where i would put it though....
I fitted a cheap cooler in front of the rad. I hooked it up so that fluid goes from the trans, through the cooler, into the stock rad cooler & then back to the trans. I used a B&M one with a rating of 19 000gvm & it's a bit too efficient as the temps are on the low side (a bonus is that the engine coolant rarely gets much above the stat rating now).
I found that without the cooler, & with the TCC locking in OD, the temps were fine when in OD but would climb rapidly when in lower gears. As BTO keep saying "Heat is the number one killer of transmissions, running hot will shorten it's life, etc, etc), I'd guess, from what my trans temp gauge showed, that a small cooler would be better than connecting up the lockup (assuming that the only problem with not locking up the TCC is the heat build up). The lockup ensured temps were good when in OD but the lower gears caused the temps to climb so much that I once stopped the car to let it all cool down!
If I was you I'd just run a hot wire to the terminal on the trans for lockup in OD (pin D?) & worry about the brake switch thingy when you've sorted all the other stuff (OD would always run locked up, but I've never had a need to run unlocked in OD) & fit a small cooler in front of the rad. The one I got was a B&M Super Cooler, measuring 11" x 7 1/2" x 3/4". It cools it too much (even on a miserable day with temps of 100F I needed a lead diving boot on to get the temp up to the optimum 160* when running in the lower gears). DON'T get a large cooler with a fan on it as it'll never get up to the optimum temp (unless you're running it in Death Valley regularly). Highly recommend running the cooler hooked up as I've done it as, from cold, the hot coolant in the rad helps warm up the trans fluid.

Hi John (G'day mate!),
Married life isn't the problem, that's one of the good bits. I'm flat out at work trying to save a sinking career (with as much success as the captain of the Titanic had). Would love to go back to Oz, but next month we're off to the good ol' U S of A for a vacation (& will probably still be paying for it long after the games have faded into a dim memory ). Besides, I don't need to go to the other side of the planet to see our teams get slaughtered, I can see that on the TV all the time Definitely intend to get back to Oz (if only to eat a bunch of those curry steak pies ) & the next time will be to see a good mate who lives in Tassie. As we'll "be in the area" we'll also probably visit some mates who've moved from Perth to Melbourne (they couldn't take the weather in Perth, apparently it didn't rain enough for them?!!!). That's in your neck of the woods I believe, so if we do get out there I'll give you plenty of warning. In the meantime, if you see any Morris Dancers doing displays in the area, the tall Irish bloke & the short German Sheila are mates of ours. If you do see them "dancing" then that would be a good time to decide whether you'd actually want to meet up with us

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