Did a quick search in the archives for this and found one decent thread, but wanted to get more ideas.

What's a good method for breaking in my new engine? I've run it all of 30-45 seconds or so, just to make sure I had no catastrophic problems awhile back and all is well, so it's about time for a real break-in.

What method do most follow, including frequency of oil changes for the first few thousand miles?

Thanks.

 

make sure you break in the cam, follow the instructuions mine were for the first 20 mins or so have engine over 2000 rpm

 

Here is the GM instructions:

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Info..._break-in.html, same thing came with my GM crate eng.

EDIT

I noticed #8 and 9 are the same, I believe #9 should be to take it to 5000 rpm's, will see if I can verify that.

 

No, you shouldn't exceed 3800 RPM for 500 miles...

Difference between 8 and 9 is that 9 is more aggressive ("Hard Throttle Acceleration" vs. "Medium Throttle Acceleration")

 

Here is another page with #8 and 9 both saying to go to 5000 rpm's.

http://www.paceparts.com/index.asp?P...=Custom&ID=636

I do believe it is 3500 for a few runs then 5000, this is to seat the rings and to do that you need cyl pressure like what is created on higher rpm's.

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

If the engine is put together right you should break in the cam for 20 to 30 minutes according to the cams recomendations. After that run it like you normally would. I had mine at 6500 rpm after the first shake down run of 5 miles to make sure there was no leaks. It has run perfectly for the last 6K miles with no oil leaks or blow by. I stress again if it was put together right and the machine work was correct. If you have a roller cam check it out for leaks and set the timing and have at it. Done this on many engines and never had a problem.

 

Ok how about when you're starting a rebuilt engine and rebuilt automatic for the first time, any concerns?

Gary

 

I'm getting close to breaking in a crate 502 in the next couple of months, it has a roller cam - and you still need to run it for 20-30 min at 1500 -2500rpm?? Also, is it that critical that that it be a continous break-in run, I assume you can shut it down if you notice leaks or it starts to run hot due to air in the coolant system or whatever??
I guess I probably should instal quiet mufflers for this breakin also - 30 min at 2500rpm just sitting in the driveway I bet will seems like a long time (and loud with super 40's) after just starting my new pride and joy.

 

I didn't do #11 I have about 250 miles on her but was not abusive. Wally said he never broke in any engines.

 

i think thats only for the conventional cams.

 

I didn't do that either...of course my engine builder was so confident he encouraged me to go out and DRIVE the car. He said about 50 miles of non extreme driving after seating the rings, and it should be good to go. I give her hell, and runs great.

 

I break in the cam as specified..... then break it in the way I drive normally....... VERY HARD. This is a highly debatable subject though.... but I have taken my BRAND NEW engines straight to the drag strip MANY times after a small amount of run time, sometimes with a couple laps around the block first. My very first 327 I built, I drove to school the next day (16 years old) and spun my bearings dragging it on the way to school, but I ran the motor way past the red-line.... floated the valves and did it in. My dad wasn't pleased. I wouldn't reccommend doing that!!! Since then, I still break em in hard, I just don't KILL it. Honestly that day I would have blown a fully "broke in" engine...... it was stupidity, I had that engine screaming!!!

By the way, do you think all these drag racers "break in" thier engines before roaring down the track? I know many who run "BRAND NEW" engines at the track all the time.

Of course ALOT has to do with the quality of your build too.

Well there is my 2 1/2 cents.

I imagine the best way may very well to be easy on them first, but I can't wait around to see what it'll do, and with my very first build as the 1 exception, all my builds have taken it fine, and have not bitten me in the butt yet.



Loren

 

Run the engine 20-30 minutes, with RPMs at around 2000... Make sure your cooling system is in good shape, use a garden hose if necessary to keep the radiator cool...

After the cam break-in, shut her down, change the oil. Then, you should be ready to do the fine-tune to the carb and timing.

 

It was a very simple process using mineral based 10/30. Since it has a roller cam it was brought to temperature on a dyno at 1500, imeadiately after checking for leaks , timing etc. the dyno runs began. max rpm was 6250 based upon the limits of the hydraulic roller valvetrain. He does this to develop maximum sealing force on the cylinder walls before any glazing can begin. They changed oil again and told me to repeat at 500 miles. He then instructed me to drive it hard and often.

Larry