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Depending on the diameter of the bolt, I would drill a hole about 1/2 the size of the diameter and get as far down as possible without going off center. Then install the easyout and back the bolt out as normal.
From: Ville de la Baie Quebec. A winner is just a loser who tried again.
Friendly advice; use the largest easyout possible, you do not want to break the easyout in the bolt. (you must consider leaving suffitiant wall thickness in order not to expand the stud). Good luck
Friendly advice; use the largest easyout possible, you do not want to break the easyout in the bolt. (you must consider leaving suffitiant wall thickness in order not to expand the stud). Good luck
Definately dont want to break the easy out. I've done ot before in one of my motorcycle engines. What a pain to drill through it. Soak it for as long as possible with a penetrating oil first.
I have found that easyouts are worth a damn. I start with a center punch then 1/8 bit, then keep going up 1 or 2 sizes at a time until you get almost to the threads and then take a small screwdriver a tap around on the threads, most likely it will break lose where you can turn it by hand. My 2 Cents
I have found that easyouts are worth a damn. I start with a center punch then 1/8 bit, then keep going up 1 or 2 sizes at a time until you get almost to the threads and then take a small screwdriver a tap around on the threads, most likely it will break lose where you can turn it by hand. My 2 Cents
Larry
Just keep drilling with larger bits and use a tap to clean it up.
Easy out ain't easy....and it ain't working.......Time for some larger drill bits I guess.....any other suggestions?
Get some intense heat around the threaded hole ro expand away from the bolt threads. For what it's worth, I've had better luck with easy outs that are tapered and square rather then the style that looks like a left hand thread. They don't have as much tendancy to expand the bolt during use.
Try getting a set of left hand drill bits. Use them the same way
someone else suggested using regular drill bits. That is, start with a
small size and keep stepping up to larger sizes. Often as you are
drilling with them the bolt will loosen.
Auto Zone stocks sets of left hand drill bits at a reasonable price.
Was the only store in my area to stock them.
Thanks for the correction.
Last edited by mark79,80; Apr 22, 2005 at 10:48 PM.
Try getting a set of right hand drill bits. Use them the same way
someone else suggested using regular drill bits. That is, start with a
small size and keep stepping up to larger sizes. Often as you are
drilling with them the bolt will loosen.
Auto Zone stocks sets of right hand drill bits at a reasonable price.
Was the only store in my area to stock them.
I think you mean left handed drill bits (lefty loosey righty tighty) and that's what I have, but haven't used them. I don't trust the easy outs I have not to break. I got a full set on line for about $35. Joe
If the reason the bolt busted in the first place is because it is rusted, the left hand drill bit won't work. they will just break and maybe ruin the finish or whatever. I am telling you from 30 years of working on cars that using the stepped drill bit method WORKS. Just make sure you are centered in the broken bolt. the lefty drill bit will work if you just OVERTIGHTEN a bolt( which I have Done) and have used a lefty drill bolt to back it out. It wont work if it is rusted.
It sounds like you got alot of advice on the broken bolt and most is good stuff. My easy outs all have a drill size stamped on them and it is a good start. As to the depth you need to drill, It has to be at least deeper than where that drill size meets inside diameter of the flutes on tool. If you hold drill bit beside e.o. i think you will see what i'm talking about. It is better to drill deeper as it allows the tool a bite,too shallow a hole will only ream out when tool bottoms out. Any rust will make extraction harder, if not impossible. The best penetrate I found is called kroil, and you need to soak the job down and let it work. Be careful with e.o. too as it is a hardened steel and brittle. If access is there I like to lightly tap on the end as I turn e.o. counter clock wise. Sometimes if you drill wih l.h. drill the bolt will back itself out on the drill.
A t-handle tap wrench is about the best way to use e.o. If you have already passed the point where any of this helps and need to try and retap make sure tap is same thread, nat. course or fine and hope you get the same lead ,otherwise you cut a second set of threads between the originals. Good Luck.........ED
Good replies.....thanks. I HAVE BROKEN THE EASY OUT OFF! This was not a rusted bolt, but a bolt for the valve cover that was to long and snapped when it hit bottom as I tightened. My lame brain brother snapped the easy out off in the hole, (I told him 3 times to watch it), now I'm really screwed.
Im dealing with a similar problem with a mustang and a headbolt. Talk about a hard bolt to drill. I ended up having to take a very hard punch to break the easy out up and get it out. If you dont get it out it will push the bit all over the place and cause you major issues with drilling straight for retapping, and it about impossible to drill through.
That thought entered my mind, hooker!! Man, I have had the worst run of luck with this car......Sure would like to drive it every now and then!
Hey, how hard would it be to tap a new hole in the head? Casting seems soft enough (I accidently found that out with the drill bit). Couldn't I just move the hole over a little, and drill new hole in valve cover gasket? Only need to go about 1/2" deep or so....
Last edited by MsVetteMan; Apr 23, 2005 at 11:54 AM.
I think I would pull the head and take it to a machine shop. I'm sure they deal with this kind of thing all the time. The one post above that had a link showed the guy welding a nut to a broken bolt, probably your only chance.