Hi, I have followed your build and Norvalwilhelm's. I don't think that I can keep up with you guys. You guys are enthusiast taking your projects to another level. You guys must be related to Greenwood, I would recheck the family tree. The coleman rotors are heavy so to balance back out the wheel rate, I actually currently have the vette brake aluminum hubs. I figured that that part was engineered by Coleman for Vette brakes and hopefully they won't melt like the wicked witch. The rotor mounting pattern on the coleman designed for vette brake hubs mounts the coleman units. Therefore I ordered different front rotors to my specs with the directional vanes and then cut the gas slots. I think you guys have more exotic braking system plans. I have the old tried and true J-56. I have the twin pin calipers front and rear with the insulators. The rears have the smaller pistons. I have the ole Kelsey Hayes proportioning valve and the brake bias setup on the original J-56 bracket. I have the braces down under and I took a set of J-56 twin-pin flanged pads down to my most local race shop (porterfield) and had them use a modern material to reshoe. On the back, I have a set of the van steel rear rotors with the gas slots (basically stock rotors with a perk).

If you are in a hurry, I think a call to coleman would answer the tech specifics on what they make for Vette brakes. I don't know if you are staying away from aluminum hubs for a reason? If not, I can yank a wheel off and measure the vette brake hub units. The rotor size of your project would be dependant on what brake calipers you are planning to run. Using the J-56 calipers limits me to basically stock diameter rotors. I run worn in pads so I went a little thicker on the width specs. If the pads wear, I have various size J-56 shims. I can drop in. I canyon run! It is a private and personal hobby. I have my own private 2 mile road race track that opens at 2am each and every morning which I light with Le Mans intensity Cibies H4's.

I have a very rare condition brought on by my Corvette called Corvette Bi-polarism. Some parts I lean toward the exotic and other parts of the car I lean toward a more purist approach. Example is I have a GM aluminum block, 23 degree Bowtie phase 6 heads, Bowtie single plane but I cut my 4340 large fillet crank to a 327 stroke. Why? Corvette Bipolarism. I could take that block out to over 400 cubic inches and buy Brodix track heads but something makes me think 327 and 23 degree. Now the intake ports on the phase 6 heads are alot wider than they are supposed to be with offset rocker arms, modified drilled push rod holes, undercut stem exotic valves, a mix of different ratio rockers to balance out the various intake manifold runner lengths, $400 retainer super locks, etc.. I have 6" carrillo rods, custom ross flat top pistons basically and very tight combustion chambers ala 12.5:1. I have a heavy duty ROD (HD model not stock) box with .80 6th. Like I said, I lean toward J-56 brakes, full cage, all of the spherical joints, heim joints, borgeson joints, etc.. What is poly urethane? Don't have any of it in my suspension. I have a Tom's differential rear end set up, Jongbloed rims 16". I like thicker looking sidewall on a vette but run high speed rated rubber with 50 profiles. I think 16" is perfect on a vette. The old 15" rims just look slightly too small in proportion to the body. The 17" 45-35 just don't look right to me (can't get used to them). Lastly I am also on the wrong forum since I own a 1964 Roadster, but I like talking tech with you C3 guys though. PS, thanks--- I have old Koni 3012's but currently for the double adjustability. I don't have the spring collars on so no coil-overs. I would like to run coils so the interest in the Pole position arms, etc.. and modifying the rear for clearance. Thank you! I like heavy spring setups with sway bar assist, "NOT" the heavy sway bar, soft spring approach. Let me know if you would like those aluminum hubs measured. I have the body lifted redoing all of the 1960 vintage welded frame gussets. I cut the rollcage out to redo. I have the body just above the frame resting on 6X6's. The rotors are on the car, old tires on the ground. Very difficult to jack it up with body balanced above frame, but I have an idea. If need be, I will measure them. Vette brakes might be able to give you the offset on their hubs. They also have gas slotted rotors but on directional vane, just straight and not as thick. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Take care! You guys have great cars! Hope to share a road or the track one day in the future.

 

OH, you only have the rotors that bolt to the VB&P 1 piece hub/hat center thing. I wasn't going to use that one as it's kind of expensive. I'll have to see what the stock rotor offset is then before ordering.

I also still have some carillo rods somewhere, 6"length, .928 pin, SPS bolts .94 big end width and they are for a small journal rod bearing 92.00 crank/2.125 big end).

I would love to see your Jongbloed rims, I wanted those also originally but went for my current ones (they're made in germany which is a little closer, they too are forged magnesium centers w/ spun alu rim halves, 3 pc. wheels). I absolutely love the jongbloed 6 spoke designs (both of them) If you don't know how to post a pic, pls. send to twinturbo @ home.nl (remove spaces, don't want a spam bot to catch my email address here)

My rims are 16" too, what kind of tires are you running (slicks?)