I finished the rear subframe for the additional suspension mounts, from this the inner toe control links will mount as well as the upper camber control rod inner mount. Do you think it's sturdy enough?? The bracket in the middle on top of the big tube will hold the dry sump tank. The big beam will also hold the 2 upper shock mounts, I'll build those later this week.

 

Yes it looks sturdy enough. It will really stiffen up the back section.
Nice job as usual Twin Turbo.

 

Looks a lot more solid than stock

Is that an aluminum case rear diff? Will that hold up to the stresses you're planning with your twin turbo powerplant? (unless you plan to drive very politely... )

 

I don't plan on dumping the clutch...but if it breaks I'm going to get a C4 D44 (still looking for one)

The roll cage will tie into this stuff also.

 

That looks pretty beefy. As usual it looks really good. With the storage compartments out of the way I think I would triangulate the frame from the last stock frame crossmember (right at the front of the diff.) to as far back near the diff. as you can get on those two longitudinal bars. That would stiffen the back half of the frame in bending.

 

the roll cage will triangulate it, I've been thinking about triangulating some of the above but won't untill I know for sure that it won't cause any itnerference problems.

 

looks sturdy and a bit heavy but with two turbines it shouldn't be a problem :

is that 2x4 tubing in the back? and 2x2 tubing bracing to the round member?

0.062 or 0.125 wall ?

Nice work

PS did you get the GM part number I sent you ?

 

Amazing work as always!

 

looks like that could hold up to lots of abuse!

 

when do you think you'll be finished now that you have the shop to work in?

 

It's not that heavy, the square tubing weighs next to nothing (it's 40mm x 40mm x 3 mm thick), the round tubing is maybe 10-15lbs. What part number do you mean?

AGVI, hopefully before next summer, I did more work the last couple of weeks than I did in the months before that (this year) so I'm actually making good progress. I'd say the frame is 75% complete

 

I can't wait until you can get some meat on those rims! That is going to be one awesome sight!

 

Yeah me neither but I have to order the tires in the US so I'm still figuring out what the most cost effective way is to have them shipped. USPS won't acept them because they're too large.

 

The Jongbloed company moved to Minnesota and are still around!(www.jongbloedwheels.com). They can custom make you anything from the 6 spoke to a McLaren, Lola, Porsche racing styles. What I have on my Jongbloeds 9 inch front is Goodyear Eagle Sports Car Special G19 (23.5 X 10.5- 16) the rears 11 inch with same brand (25 X 12- 16) that I am trying to fit. Which I sold and I kept the 15 x 10's. They also sell a radial G19. Since this is an old race car (1964 Roadster) ala 1966- 1971 racing career followed then primarily by a Solo II career up till about 1975, 1987 I took an interest in Vintage racing and converted back to basically stock fenders with some American 7X15 rims but kept all of the racing stuff (ATL plate, Paddy Hopkirk buckets, J-56 disc package, etc.). Then 1991 I put the old box flares back on that retain the belt line and mounted the Jongbloeds. I might need to extend these flares out some for my current project. What makes those box flares ugly like in a recent post with comments by unknowledgable people (Cobrastang- sounds like Ford Man, ps I like GT40's and 1965 GT-350R models) is when the police pull you over and they make you cover all of the rubber, therefore alot of guys extended these flares ruining the look and the lines because of necessarity. There were basically two types of flares (box and ZL-1) where the only way to get big rubber. I would like to use my car on the street, so I am exploring a way to take the flares on and off and when in street trim use a fastener system to reattach the stock fender section that was cut out. I have the offset trailing arms I bought about 10 years ago giving me room with the stock fenders on for a 9" rim back with about a 275/45-16 or 255-50-16 and the front a 7.5" rim with a 225/45-16 or 225/50-16 with the lips shaved off. Last time I was running the car, I used the Jongbloeds with R1 Road Race BFG's. I bought new inner rim sections a few years ago (modular) to extend the width of the rims (Jongbloeds) to run the current Racing rubber I bought. I would like to see if PS engineering can make me a set of 16" rims in the 9" and 7.5" widths to mount some decent hipo street rubber when running without the flares. For street use most of us with the older cars don't have any good hipo rubber choices. I have old American Magnesium 10" and the fronts 8.5. That I ran around the street with mounted with just BFG Radials 295/50-15 and 265/50-15 when I wasn't racing with the Jongbloeds. Finding 15" high performance rubber is impossible therefore I wasn't pushing the car on the street.

To answer your question from the GM welding monkey topic, I was planning on getting a good Digital camera prior to Monterey in August. I want great pictures of the Jim Hall Chaparrals that will be there as a featured Marque. It would also be fun to post pictures on this forum. I posted that Rear Bearing Tool Thread? Forum? and had 20plus wise guys email me about how great this shop was or that shop was. Like a bunch of hustlers trying to waive you into a strip club. Ya, they will strip your wallet. I had my answer about the tool and exited not upset or bothered (I saw your post, "What Happened"). Most Corvette guys don't know anything about anything. You can quickly tell the ones who haven't wrenched on a car themselves. Then got an email telling me that I should see what others said on that topic (Sensitive, sounded Angry) those comments make me laugh. Alot of Jerks on this forum. No big deal. Like you and Norval, the pictures help shut up the pencil pushing know it alls that take their cars to shops, and are experts on the types of waxes and polishes. I go to events at the Pomona Swap Meet, etc., etc. and rarely see a Corvette that impresses me. In our 1968, we used to turn FTD for a Corvette at almost every Solo II event for darn near 4 years with the Guldstrand group. That included beating every single C4/C5 vette out there, V8 Miatas, Rice Burners etc.. That wasn't popular because his shop wants those C4/C5 parts to customers and taking points from the modern cars hurt the moral of the paying customers in the team. Therefore they approached us and didn't want us to run in any class that might take points from a C4 or C5 owner (politics). It was no longer fun! We have had Corvettes in our family since 1957 which is alot longer than alot of the self proclaimed experts. Therefore in the future when I have got what I want out of a forum, I am off/gone. No need to talk with insulting idiots. P.S. the rims you bought look great. I really wouldn't change them for the Jongbloeds. I have to go look at the battery/storage boxes in our 1968 but in my 1964 I tied the frame rails together over the rearend crossmember within the luggage compartment then triangled it back to the corners even though I have the rollcage tied in to the risers connecting above the rear tires. I also raised that crossmember and use a solid bushing welded so the rubber donuts were completely eliminated. That stiffened up the rear third. You are going for weight reduction with the rear end you selected. I question the strength of that unit but I saw your plan for I assume a Dana 44.

 

There is a company about 40 miles from me that makes a D60 rear end housing with a vet mounting pad on top for top mounting to a cross member. It's callled the rock crusher , comes without axles and could be easily converted for a vet with yokes. If I really had a problem this is the way I would go.
Their web site is not very good but it is www.rockcrusherdiffs.com
For you and I with coilovers it would be simple to run a Dana 60 custom housing. They claim their rearends are 80% stronger then a stock Dana.

Their web shows one with axle tubes pressed into the housing but the housing is sold bare/no tubes and with simple adaptors seals and yokes can be used. Mounting is by 4 bolts in the top to a crossmember

 

The website is actually pretty nice (it's new according to the "news" section). I may have to go to a Dana 60 sometime in the future but I'll see how this works out, a D44 from a C4 should be able to handle plenty of power. I'm not going to run sticky tires and John Meaney's 1200+ HP vette holds up w/ the D44 also, Monty's car held up w/ the modified stock one (Tom's stuff) but I don't think it saw that many miles.

 

TT: When are you gonna stop fiddling around with flimsy IRS rear ends and convert to a Dana 60 or Ford 9inch? You wouldn't have to worry about popping the clutch and having stuff fly apart if you did. Looks like you have the technical know-how to DIY.

Dep

 

Comon dep, we all know you just want to see how TT would do the 9 inch so you can copy it

 

Curses!!!...my secret plan has been revealed!!!

Dep

 

Plus - Marck's car is made to turn ... turn hard.

Looking good and strong !!