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Norval suggested to either obtain two brass blocks(front & rear) with whatever adapters required for your line/thread sizes, or to fabricate a single new block out of a piece of brass that keeps both front and rear isolated. The fabrication is not that bad, basically drilling holes and tapping with the correct brake line flare adapters. I just took my valve out tonight and will let you know what I end up doing. Tomorrow evening I am going over to Norval's shop, we are going to see if there is even an easier way by modifying the stock valve..as in sealing off the valve with a brass plug.
if you guys can, it would be helpful if you could "publish" a "parts list" in this post to make this conversion. pics too if possible. thanks.
Norval,
Everyone just needs to be warned that removing the prop valve may result in stability problems in a panic stop.
In my experience, that is an understatment! I had one fail on a Pontiac Grand Prix. I didn't know it was defective because the car stopped well under normal circumstances. But when a guy over-ran a stop sign and ended up stopped in front of me (coming on at 40 mph) I hit the brakes hard, the rears locked hard, and the car whipped around over 90* and slid off the road. It all happened so fast I don't think I could have done any better if I knew the valve wasn't working.
I replaced the valve and deliberately checked the car would panic stop straight, and it did.
reducing the rear pad area should be an effective way to balance the brakes.
keep in mind all early c3's did not have the p valve and suffer the same fate (with no recall). my 72 has a warning switch only.
reducing the rear pad area should be an effective way to balance the brakes.
keep in mind all early c3's did not have the p valve and suffer the same fate (with no recall). my 72 has a warning switch only.
The factory already put larger pistons in the front and smaller ones in the back to aid brake bias.