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Engine Rebuild Advice Needed

Old Jul 7, 2005 | 08:29 PM
  #1  
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St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Default Engine Rebuild Advice Needed

After almost 2 years of disassembly of my entire car, I have finally begun putting the car back together. I am getting ready to assemble my engine and I have a concern that the engine will sit in it's rebuilt state for another year (or more) before I get the car running. I thought this would be a good group to ask because of the number of long-term projects that I see here.

My question is this. Should I be doing anything special as far as lubrication of assembled parts (or anything else) to insure that the motor will be ready to run in a year or more? I am aware that I should pre-oil the engine. I have heard some people dry coat the cylinder walls with Marvel Mystery Oil.

Any advice would be appreciated.
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 09:15 PM
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Oil the cylinder walls, seal all openings, store in dry environment if possible, and loosen the rocker arm adjustment nuts so no valve springs are compressed. That should do it.
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 10:17 PM
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
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The valve springs are the main issue. If you do tighten them make sure you rotate the engine every few months (ie 45-90 degrees) to change the compression on the springs.
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 10:23 PM
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i hate the idea of having a built engine just sitting around....can yu delay the build so the timing is better
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
i hate the idea of having a built engine just sitting around....can yu delay the build so the timing is better
I thought I would have the engine together and running a year ago but have not had much of a chance to work on the car.
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 05:25 AM
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I coated the cylinder heads with WD-40 right before I installed the heads. Then it took me about 1 more year before the engine was fired. (Time & $$)

I turned the crank about once a month in the mean. Grumpyvette said to fill the oil pan with 10 qts during the winter too.
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by BKbroiler
Oil the cylinder walls, seal all openings, store in dry environment if possible, and loosen the rocker arm adjustment nuts so no valve springs are compressed. That should do it.

Lots of WD40 take tention off springs
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 10:26 AM
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I had my 350 sitting for 6 years. All I did was take out the plugs shoot some oil in the cylinders and rotate the crank every month or two. The engine was fine. I'm not that crazy about wd40 anymore for long term protection. The assembly lubes are thicker and will cling to the metal better or even ATF. I didn't bother backing off the springs because I have new heads to go on anyway.
Gary
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 10:30 AM
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Also to put a heavy plastic bad over the entire assy, and close it up tight on the stand neck....sealing it shut on a nice dry day....keeps it's clean and without condensate gathering on the block....

GENE
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 12:19 PM
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No problem storing a rebuilt engine for years. GM crate engines sit on the shelf for years with no problem. Just cap all openings and wrap the whole thing in a plastic bag and tie it off to keep moisture out of it. You can buy some dessicant from Grainger and throw that in the bag to keep things nice and dry for additional protection. I've had engines sitting assembled for 3-4 years and have never had a problem or an issue starting them or any issues with reliability.
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by lars
No problem storing a rebuilt engine for years. GM crate engines sit on the shelf for years with no problem. Just cap all openings and wrap the whole thing in a plastic bag and tie it off to keep moisture out of it. You can buy some dessicant from Grainger and throw that in the bag to keep things nice and dry for additional protection. I've had engines sitting assembled for 3-4 years and have never had a problem or an issue starting them or any issues with reliability.
That dessicant sounds like a good idea. Just be sure not to eat it .
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 01:20 PM
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If it were me and it's a fresh camshaft, I'd leave the intake off or unsealed and at least put some fresh break in lube on the lifter faces prior to priming it and starting it a year from now.

good luck

tbw
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 03:13 PM
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I'd just spray the cylinders with motorcycle chain lube and turn it over every month or so. Keep it dry. It will be fine.
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 07:23 PM
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Lubriplate sells a great white motor assembly grease that will stay in place over time. I would not hesitate to use it on all the bearings and to pack the oil pump. The cylinder walls can get some oil on them. The moly lube is just for the valvetrain. Wrap it up and forget about it.

-Mark.
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 08:28 PM
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I winterize my outboard motor with fogging oil. It comes in an aerosol and it's purpose is to protect the cylinder walls and carb linkages. My boat spends 6 months a year in the salt water and I've had no problems. Actually, if your engine was running, you would spray it into the carb with the motor running and it coats everything. I'm thinking it may be good for storing a car also.
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