did not take more than two weeks to figure you out. give your opinoins and advice but keep your critisism.

 

After seeing and riding in a middle eastern guy's Aston Marton V8 Vantage w/ concealed radar detector I really want one. ...the car and the radar. I keep getting busted in VA with standard radar but really don't want to get caught using a detector Maybe I should just take a detour through WV to MD.

-Chris

 

Many of us tangle with Dep here and there and can still get along with him. The trick is to take it all in the spirit that it's given, and don't spout anything unless you can back it up.

 

The easy way to foul up the radar is to jam it. You can build a "transmitter" that will give off signals to a cops radar gun that will confuse it. That is not hard to build BUT it WILL violate FCC rules about the use of unapproved interfearance generating devices. Violation of Federal law is not something I want to mess with. That being said, I have never seen the "FCC patrol" in my area but I suspect that if a cop was suspicious because my car caused his radar gun to go haywire as I was speeding past, he might find a reason to pull me over and delay my trip for a while.

As for Radar absorbing materials, they are only marginaly effective. You can coat the surface with radar absorbing finish or even add a radar absorbing material to the front of the car to improve the stealthyness. Even with that, you still have a lot of signal bouncing back to the source due to the interior reflectivity. If you could put a thin reflective coating on the widshield that would cause the radar signal to be reflected straight up and away from the vehicle, you could probably get better stealth performance from a car. Normaly the radar signal hits the metal parts inside the vehicle and bounce back to the source. The vehicle interior is very "loud" to a radar gun. The metal parts in the front of the vehicle are the other big "reflectors" of radar signals. The more signal it reflects back to the source, the less stealthy the car is.

-Mark.

 

stingr69, did you read gkull's posts? He has tested both things against radar guns.

 

Yes I did read the post and he sounds like he has a pretty good handle on it. The radar jamming equipment you see advertized for sale is probably not all it is cracked up to be. This is not to say it can not be done, just that it is not available commercialy. You would need to build one on your own if you decide you want one and are willing to take the risk of being caught.

I am not a microwave technology engineer but I have had this discussion before with a person that has extensive experience regarding the subject. He is smart enough to do it and smart enough to NOT to do it.

-Mark.

 

Okay...so radar scramblers are not practical and the ones they sell are crap. Now how about an anti-cellphone device? One that you can aim at some buttmunch that is driving and weaving and yakking like crazy. Can we get one that can:

#1 Fry all the circuits in the phone.
#2 Permanently disable the phone (or the above).
#3 Make the phone screech REAL LOUD in the person's ear so that they go deaf. And yes...I sit up nights thinking of these things.

BTW...I heard the Beltronics RX65 was the "best" radar detector.
Anyone have one? I heard they were detectable by Spectre anti-radar detectors (used in Canada).

Dep

 

This is a nice fresh 385 built this past winter by my friend Brian. He is the 3rd member with Carguy4sure that go to the cruises together. This thing impressed me with
the way it moves out. He has 391 gears, a tremec and complt VBP suspension.
The car is quick

 

Radar detector are not hard to come by and they work. I am not trying for stealth, only pick up the signal and slow down before they get a fix on you.
Brian has and I don't know which unit but it is mounted in the nose of his car. Long before a cop gets a fix on him a beeper goes off in the car, He hits the brakes and turns the power off to the unit. By the time the radar gun gets a reading he is down and most radar guns here don't have a radar detector detector.
Again we are not trying for stealth, only to catch the radar beam on it's outer edges, slow down, turn the unit off incase this one cop has a radar detecter detecter.
I am running about 120 miles one way north today and I will have a plug in unit on the dash scanning ahead.
Security in builds set them off as does driving by any cop shop where the radar guns have been left on.
They cost $300-$400 CDN and they work.
Mine is an old Whisler, not great but still lets off a load beep if a oncomming cop has radar turned on.

 

"How come you insisit on limiting yourself on the compression ratio? Get some VP fuel and you can pop that compression right up to 12 to one or more. Don't tell me you're another one of those "budget builders" that has to beg the wifey for gas money just to drive it and all you can afford is unleaded regular!!!! I still don't get these "expensive, hard to find" parts that everyone keeps talking about. If you're talking 302 cranks, then you're right. But forged bottom end parts for a 350 mouse are a dime a dozen. NOTHING costs what it costs back in the late 60s-early 70s. But I still see the mouse being the best bang for the buck compared to other motors. "

Your post concerning "asking wifey for gas money". Wasn't that a reference to posters family?

 

And DEP, with his fictional engine, can back up what he spouts?

Too many apologists for his type of behavior.

 

It was and I apologize. Definitely gotta practice what you preach. I am probably oversensitive about comments about a significant other now that I am going to have one. Again..I apologize.

"And DEP, with his fictional engine, can back up what he spouts?"

Ahhhh...I LOVEwhen someone asks this!!!

Let's see...I got it right here on my desktop....

TECHNICAL DATA
VIN number 124378N411100
Build Date 04A (first week of April)
Color Corvette Bronze
Interior Code 712, black standard
Car Shipper Shipped on April 11, 1968 to Ammon R. Smith Auto Company, York, PA
Engine Data Cubic Inches, 302
Cylinder heads #3917291, completely stock, no porting allowed!
Stock rocker arms & valve springs
Intake 302 aluminum intake, casting #3917610
Carburetor Holley, #4053, 780 CFM 4bbl
Camshaft Crane, .480 inches lift, 272 degrees duration, valve lash, .016-.016
Pistons GM 302, .030" oversize
Horsepower 456 @7700rpm
Rear Tires 9" x 30.0" Hoosier's
Rear axle & ratio 12-bolt, 5.57 Richmond Pro Gears
Clutch 10 inch, three finger from Advance Clutch Technology
Shift Points 8200 RPM
BEST ET 10.80 @122.30mph

http://www.z28camaro.com/oldrel.html

That is a REAL car with REAL WORLD performance results. Not some dyno or computer "estimator". Considering I an NOT restricted to the S/S rules that the Old Reliable runs in, and I weight considerably LESS than he does, I think it's safe to say a 302 built the same way would achieve AT LEAST the same or BETTER results. Note that I have been unable to obtain a 302 crank for my engine build. So it will be a built 350-355. But the same applies.

Dep

 

Cylinder heads #3917291, completely stock, no porting allowed!
Stock rocker arms & valve springs


Horsepower is all made in the heads. Blocks are blocks but the heads are where it is all at.
Horsepower is roughly Flow in CFM x .257 x number of cylinders = horsepower.
Intakes take 15-25% off advertised flow ratings.
I fail to see how a stock head, no porting , stock springs turning 8200 rpm at that is going to flow the quantity of air required to make that type of horsepower?????

 

Norval: Actually, it's not all that spectacular when you consider the STOCK 302 engine was WAY under-rated for horsepower. Rated at 290, the actual horsepower was more in the neighborhood of 350-375. The Trans Am engines were in the 480 horsepower range running two carbs on a cross ram. The stock Z-28 intake was a VERY high rise/high RPM design. Perhaps I should send Strickler's info to Ripley's Believe it or Not???


Dep

 

Dep I was there when they came out. I worked in a speed shop and one of our regulars Tom bought one, installed the headers in the shop, put on the cross ram and started street racing. I was running the 428 CJ with 12.5 compression, tunnel ram, high stall C6 and 456 gears and Tom was no competion.
He sold the car the following year and went for a 427 Camaro.
Started turning 12.1? until it blew, put is a hilborn fuel injected 427 and went high 10's first night out.

 

A 302 is a 327 (or 350) block with a 283 crank. If you're having trouble finding a 283 crank then you may not be looking very hard.

It will be hard to build a 350 that will spin 8200 rpm.

I don't believe any stock cast-iron 1968 heads can flow well enough to deliver 450 hp even at 8200 rpm.

Then there are oiling problems at that rpm and valve float problems. I don't think you'd be able to keep it togther.

Don't forget. The class may have been Super Stock but those guys had plenty of ways to cheat in those days. (Ask Smokey Yunick -- world class cheater)

You will also have to run at least 12:1 compression. That may be fine on a drag track but on the street these days finding fuel is going to be tough.

Good luck with a 302 Corvette.

 

Ask Bill" Grumpy" Jenkins about high revving small-blocks...He was building 10,000 rpm pro-stock motors before there were any aftermarket heads, cranks or rods.....It can be done, it's just not cheap.........

 

Norval: Check my DOB in my profile. I ain't no newbie either. I was at the strip when the Zs were racing and blowing off big blocks like 396, 390, AND 428 (which was a pig unless you got a SUPER Cobrajet and the drag pack with an outrageous gear).
Personally, I wouldn't take a 428 Cobrajet as a gift. It's just a mildly hopped up low RPM Lincoln Mercury engine. The Ford to have for SERIOUS racing is the 427 medium riser. Cross bolt/4-bolt mains (yes...Ford had them LONG before Chevy put them in Vettes) and solid lifters with forged EVERYTHING, it was the engine that took home the 24 Hours of Le mans trophy for the USA and cleaned house at NASCAR. In modified form, the 427 SOHC kicked butt on hemis at the strip.

Seaside63: What you describe is JUST a 302. I want the Z-28 motor. Forged crank, forged pistons, forged rods. The bottom end was indestructible compared to "just a 327 with a 283 crank". Z-28 or equivalent crankshafts are almost non-existent. The only NEW 302 cranks available from Callies or Cola are made for 6 inch rods. I need on for the 5.7 inch rods. Yes, I can get a custom-built crank, but it will cost me over $2000 JUST for the crank. Might as well build a big block as pay that kinda money.
The LT-1 in 1970 cranked out plenty of RPM in stock form. I see no reason why I can't reach at least 7800 with it and still stay together.
Pistons will be 12 or 12.5 -1. No reason to build a hot car to get groceries or go to church with. Car will be strip-only. I like how everyone instantly assume that fast cars all cheat. That sounds like the mantra of the one who LOSES to one

big_G: You are exactly correct. How quickly some forget that "Da Grump" campaigned a SMALLBLOCK Vega in Pro Stock that KICKED BUTT!! This little item should make the big block fans twist in their chairs...

"Formal factory backing and the sheer number of entries swung the pendulum to Chrysler's favor, and Jenkins was winless through the balance of 1970 and all of 1971. Recognizing that the vast number of fans drove Chevrolets, NHRA reconfigured the rules to allow cars with small-block wedge engines to run at a lighter weight break. An untested short-wheelbase Vega that Jenkins built for the 1972 season was held to a subpar 9.90 to qualify a disappointing 17th for the 32-car field at the season-opening Winternationals. Last-minute suspension changes enabled Jenkins to improve to low 9.6s on race day, and he defeated five Chrysler Hemi entries for his most memorable victory."

Ahem....note that last line "defeated five Chrysler Hemi entries".

Dep