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C3 - T/A removal

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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 11:41 AM
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Default C3 - T/A removal

I'm going to rebuild the front suspension, but I think rebuilding the T/A's is more work/aggravation/pain than I want. Are there any tricks or special tools needed to get these off so I can send them some where ? It's a '71 and the rear suspension has never been touched, except for shocks.

Thanks
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 11:51 AM
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I think the biggest aggravation can be the front bolt. They sometimes rust solid with the inner bushing sleeve. If you can't drive it out with a punch, some folks have carefully used a sawzall to cut the bolt. Once the swing arm is out removing the bushing is not too difficult.

Oh yea... lots of penetrating oil for a few days beforehand!

Good luck… GUSTO
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim71Vette
I'm going to rebuild the front suspension, but I think rebuilding the T/A's is more work/aggravation/pain than I want. Are there any tricks or special tools needed to get these off so I can send them some where ? It's a '71 and the rear suspension has never been touched, except for shocks.

Thanks
Just basic hand tools are needed. The bolt in the front of the trailing arm can be difficult to remove. That will vary from car to car. I was luckier than some others. I was able to tap both bolts out. I would spray them with WD40 or something similiar. Loosen the nut and then see if the bolt will turn. If it does, then try tapping the bolt out. If it gets stuck, spray the bolt and tap it back in. This will work the solvent into the bushing area. Each time you repeat this the bolt should move out further. I should have mentioned you should remove the shims. Pull each side out seperately and mark them. Once you get the trailing arm back in, installing the shims will get the close enough in toe to get it to an alignment shop.
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 12:06 PM
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I had to use a sawsall to cut both sides of the bolts that hold the front of the trailing arm to the frame. You can use a torch as well. I sprayed penetrating oil on them for days and still had to cust them. It isn't a big deal, just hard work and takes a little time to cut thru both sides of each bolt.
Bernie
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by BerniesVette
I had to use a sawsall to cut both sides of the bolts that hold the front of the trailing arm to the frame. You can use a torch as well. I sprayed penetrating oil on them for days and still had to cust them. It isn't a big deal, just hard work and takes a little time to cut thru both sides of each bolt.
Bernie
Yup...that is how I did mine. Not much room in there to see what you are doing and without knowing it I was cutting into the bushing rather than the bolt. When I realized that and moved the saw outboard from the trailing arm a little it went fast.
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by carguy4sure
Not much room in there to see what you are doing and without knowing it I was cutting into the bushing rather than the bolt. When I realized that and moved the saw outboard from the trailing arm a little it went fast.
Vette, cutting, "saw" pass me a beer this is painful But carguy I've seen your Vette and no "saw marks" to be found you have a beauty
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mandm1200
The bolt in the front of the trailing arm can be difficult to remove. That will vary from car to car. I was luckier than some others. I was able to tap both bolts out. .
I too had no problem sliding both out. The bolts did not show and sign rust and I re-used them.

The trailing arms were bare when I removed them. I tried as best I could to balance them on a jack stand, the the arms in a horizontal position. This was to not place any load on the bolts. Being unloaded allowed them to freely slip out.
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 03:56 PM
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IF the T/A front bushing is still OK, you can unbolt the entire
bearing carrier assembly for rebuild. Also, removing the bearing
assembly first - can make cutting the front pivot bolt easier, due
to better access.

My 75 - was rusted solid, so I did not even try to push them
out. I didn't even cut them - ended up putting the frame in
a junk pile. My 70 chassis - different story: The pivot bolts
tapped right out easily.
Good Luck.
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 05:11 PM
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http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...bearingremoval
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 10:12 AM
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Can a cutoff wheel be used to cut the bolts, smaller tool better access ? Anyone try it ?
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 05:06 PM
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The bolt seizes to the steel bushing inside the middle of the trailing arm. Cutting the bolt head off would not let the arm slide out of the frame since the bolt shaft would still be thru the frame and the trailing arm.
Bernie
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by BerniesVette
The bolt seizes to the steel bushing inside the middle of the trailing arm. Cutting the bolt head off would not let the arm slide out of the frame since the bolt shaft would still be thru the frame and the trailing arm.
Bernie
You cut BETWEEN the bushing and the frame...and YES this does work. It's a tried and true method and probably the best way to get your T/As off the car. It's been said before and I'll say it again......the SAWZALL is your friend!!
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim71Vette
Can a cutoff wheel be used to cut the bolts, smaller tool better access ? Anyone try it ?
Curious if anyone used a (air) right angle drill with a "cut-off" wheel? Wonder if that'd work?
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