L48 low-cost performance
New springs and weights and an adjustable vac diaphram are all you need to get this done. You also need an adjustable timing light.
LARS had a kit that I purchased to do this job. I am not sure if they are still available.
Last edited by Pete76Shark; Aug 17, 2005 at 02:24 PM.
know you want the centrifugal advance to come in at 2800-3200 RPMs you do this by changing the springs to lighter ones if you use the Crane advance kit like I do you are looking to install one Blue (heavy) spring and one Silver one (medium). These springs are located directly under the rotor and are easy to remove/replace by hand or with needle-nose pliers. These springs will give you an advance curve that starts at about 800 RPM and ends at 2800. Since the srping I recomended starts at about 800 RPMs if you try to set your initial timing with the engine idling ABOVE 800 RPM you will NEVER get a true initial advance set it with the idle temporarily slowed WAY down if you have to but DO IT RIGHT

Vacuum advance for the street: You want about 12 (crankshaft) degrees total vacuum advance if you run WITHOUT a functional EGR system I recomend to use the Crane advance kit (the one in the picture) install their can with about 9 turns tighter than the loosest setting on the adjustable advance can spring use the little lockout cam that comes with the kit to lock out as much advance as possible this will still leave you with about 12 degrees of available vacum advance
Last edited by Empatho; Aug 17, 2005 at 02:40 PM.
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyguide.shtm
BigBlockk
Later.....
I was thinking of just trying out new springs and adjusting my timing that way. Thoughts?
Hef









