reamer help + front steer stuff
Thread Starter
Race Director
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reamer help + front steer stuff
Does anyone know what angle the GM tie rods are? 1,5 inch/ft or 2 inch/foot ???? and does anyone have one I could perhaps borrow (I'll pay the shipping of course and will send it back insured 
) if not I'll have to buy one but I hate spending 100$ on just 2 holes 
The reason I need it is the steering arms, because of my front steer project I swapped L&R and turned them upside down so they point up, now my tie rod will hang under the arm and you just guessed it....the reamed angle on the stocker is the other way around so time to drill a new hole and ream it the other way around.
Well..here's how I am going to put this thing together, ignore the messy bolt/spacer deal on the steering arm but that's because of the reamed part. The pic of the rack w/ the frame is an overhead shot w/ the rack sitting on a little stand, it's under the frame there so the dimensions are screwed up (perspective) but will give an idea of where it will sit. I will have to notch the frame horns a tad on the underside to clear the tie rods on full bump. The sleeve is also too short..ignore that also
) if not I'll have to buy one but I hate spending 100$ on just 2 holes The reason I need it is the steering arms, because of my front steer project I swapped L&R and turned them upside down so they point up, now my tie rod will hang under the arm and you just guessed it....the reamed angle on the stocker is the other way around so time to drill a new hole and ream it the other way around.
Well..here's how I am going to put this thing together, ignore the messy bolt/spacer deal on the steering arm but that's because of the reamed part. The pic of the rack w/ the frame is an overhead shot w/ the rack sitting on a little stand, it's under the frame there so the dimensions are screwed up (perspective) but will give an idea of where it will sit. I will have to notch the frame horns a tad on the underside to clear the tie rods on full bump. The sleeve is also too short..ignore that also
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I think the angle is 7 degrees. I am not positive but have that information at work. The other choice is 10 degree but I don't thing so. I am at a funeral tomorrow so I won't be able to tell you which it is until Tuesday but again I think it is the 7 degrees.
You could also calculate it by measureing the different diameters at a certain distance apart and do the trig.
You could also calculate it by measureing the different diameters at a certain distance apart and do the trig.
Last edited by norvalwilhelm; Aug 21, 2005 at 06:13 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
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St. Jude Donor '03,'11
i can't believe that friggin car TT.
If that thing acutally works when your done ( and i have my doubts ) you truely are a genius. How can anyone redesign a whole car all at once without testing things piecewise?
If that thing acutally works when your done ( and i have my doubts ) you truely are a genius. How can anyone redesign a whole car all at once without testing things piecewise?
Thread Starter
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I want to use a tapered adjustable tie rod stud, that'll allow me to use heim joints but I don't like the idea of having just a bolt that could work itself loose from the twisting motion. I have no problems w/ heim joints, if you look at my front and rear suspension it's heim central 
I think I have somewhere in the neighbourhood of 30 heims in it
Techno, the upper a arm is the real deal, they look like they could move but once you have all the settings correct you do up the jam nuts and they are as rigid as a normal a arm, a rigid triangle is the strongest construction possible, with everything tightened how can it move?
I think I have somewhere in the neighbourhood of 30 heims in itTechno, the upper a arm is the real deal, they look like they could move but once you have all the settings correct you do up the jam nuts and they are as rigid as a normal a arm, a rigid triangle is the strongest construction possible, with everything tightened how can it move?
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Aug 22, 2005 at 02:44 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: eville in
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Norval, 7 degrees is Chrysler, I think we have 10 degrees ... that would make it the 2"/ft one.
7 degrees = 1.5"/1ft
10 degrees = 2.0"/1ft
7 degrees = 1.5"/1ft
10 degrees = 2.0"/1ft
i'll try to make a call in a few hours and post back,,, don't know if they will answer
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Thread Starter
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comp, that'd be awesome...can't find anything w/ google.
Why are things never as easy as they seem? Things just got more complicated, I thought I could pull it off w/ a single rod from column to rack ... stupid me, forgot about the dry sump pump oops Now I have to run a 2 piece shaft setup angled up and over the dry sump pulley to the left close by the shock tower and then to the column, I'll support it w/ a bracket and a heim.
Why are things never as easy as they seem? Things just got more complicated, I thought I could pull it off w/ a single rod from column to rack ... stupid me, forgot about the dry sump pump
oops Now I have to run a 2 piece shaft setup angled up and over the dry sump pulley to the left close by the shock tower and then to the column, I'll support it w/ a bracket and a heim.
Thread Starter
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BTW, Redvetracr ... you were right about having to notch the frame for the pump...and not a bit either DAMN LOL The notch needs to go even further to the middle of the crossmember to clear the belt.
The notch needs to go even further to the middle of the crossmember to clear the belt.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: 68 427 4.11s Roadster
Twin Turbo After looking at the picture again it looks like they aren't heim joints? no swiveling bushing. I think they're called eyes, which is funny since I just ordered some today and can't remember the name!
Anyway with 4 points of contact it isn't a triangle anymore. Something like a cam link. 4 points can move while only 3 bolts couldn't, although the ball joint could still swivel. A triangle doesn't rely on friction.
I just think your depending on a bit of friction too much. Anyone of those bolts gets loose and they all are going loose. Besides getting loose I don't see that bit of friction lasting for many miles.
Just my 2 cents.
Anyway with 4 points of contact it isn't a triangle anymore. Something like a cam link. 4 points can move while only 3 bolts couldn't, although the ball joint could still swivel. A triangle doesn't rely on friction.
I just think your depending on a bit of friction too much. Anyone of those bolts gets loose and they all are going loose. Besides getting loose I don't see that bit of friction lasting for many miles.
Just my 2 cents.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
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St. Jude Donor '03,'11
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
BTW, Redvetracr ... you were right about having to notch the frame for the pump...and not a bit either DAMN LOL The notch needs to go even further to the middle of the crossmember to clear the belt.
The notch needs to go even further to the middle of the crossmember to clear the belt.You'll have to put some stiffeners in that area to make up for the loss of strength.
there wasn't a way to mod the bracket instead?
Thread Starter
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techno, I think you mean clevis? That's what they are, but really when it's all bolted down the arm is very rigid, one side on the ball joint plate is fixed:...see??
there's no way that it can move, there are only 3 bolts..not 4.
turtle yeah it's ugly but it will be pretty, it will just be a big notch in the frame...nothing to worry about and I will weld in some extra ribs inside for strength but when I have my frame horn to shock tower bars and a big X in front of it installed there's nothing there that will twist.
Can't mod the bracket, the pump is as close to the block as possible and any higher it will hit the power steering pump.
Those holes will not be left open like that. Can't access it though...engine needs to come out to be able to plate over the big hole.
I did finish plating up 1 frame horn
and again, a notch...for the tie rods. My car is full-o-notches and holes LOL ...any minute now I may go mad and start drilling holes also
there's no way that it can move, there are only 3 bolts..not 4.
turtle yeah it's ugly but it will be pretty, it will just be a big notch in the frame...nothing to worry about and I will weld in some extra ribs inside for strength but when I have my frame horn to shock tower bars and a big X in front of it installed there's nothing there that will twist.
Can't mod the bracket, the pump is as close to the block as possible and any higher it will hit the power steering pump.
Those holes will not be left open like that. Can't access it though...engine needs to come out to be able to plate over the big hole.
I did finish plating up 1 frame horn
and again, a notch...for the tie rods. My car is full-o-notches and holes LOL
...any minute now I may go mad and start drilling holes also
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Aug 24, 2005 at 12:41 PM.
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Twin Cities Minnesota
Originally Posted by Techno
Twin Turbo After looking at the picture again it looks like they aren't heim joints? no swiveling bushing. I think they're called eyes, which is funny since I just ordered some today and can't remember the name!
Anyway with 4 points of contact it isn't a triangle anymore. Something like a cam link. 4 points can move while only 3 bolts couldn't, although the ball joint could still swivel. A triangle doesn't rely on friction.
I just think your depending on a bit of friction too much. Anyone of those bolts gets loose and they all are going loose. Besides getting loose I don't see that bit of friction lasting for many miles.
Just my 2 cents.
Anyway with 4 points of contact it isn't a triangle anymore. Something like a cam link. 4 points can move while only 3 bolts couldn't, although the ball joint could still swivel. A triangle doesn't rely on friction.
I just think your depending on a bit of friction too much. Anyone of those bolts gets loose and they all are going loose. Besides getting loose I don't see that bit of friction lasting for many miles.
Just my 2 cents.
TT Looks great!
Make me want to do a front steer, OK maybe not, rear steer was hard enough!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
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From: Orange Park Florida
Originally Posted by 427V8
Those are circle track arms. They aint movin.
TT Looks great!
Make me want to do a front steer, OK maybe not, rear steer was hard enough!
TT Looks great!
Make me want to do a front steer, OK maybe not, rear steer was hard enough!
Yeh, and BUMP stear is what you REALLY don't want to do, either....
GENE
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From: Living in the Hartland
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
a rigid triangle is the strongest construction possible