No Brakes!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
From: Forty Fort PA
No Brakes!
I am new to the forum hope someone can help with this. I just put a new brake system (M-cylinder, lines & calipers) on my C3. I manually bled the system, pressure bled from the calipers, dropped the front end to level the master cylinder (to get any air out). No pedal! Any ideas?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,025
Likes: 12
From: Pleasant Grove AL
Bench bleed the MC. Otherwise, it will take forever to get them bled. A pressure bleeder will also help. Not sure what you meant by "manually bled system, pressure bled from calipers".
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
From: Forty Fort PA
Did not bench bleed master cylinder. It took forever to pump fluid via the pedal but I did finally get good air-less flow at each bleed point. Because I did not have pedal at that point, I pressure bled the system from each wheel back to get air out of the master cylinder (if there was any). No indications of any air in system. How do I tell if the master cylinder is the correct size (bore, whatever)?
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 7
From: Ontario
Originally Posted by langg
Did not bench bleed master cylinder. It took forever to pump fluid via the pedal but I did finally get good air-less flow at each bleed point. Because I did not have pedal at that point, I pressure bled the system from each wheel back to get air out of the master cylinder (if there was any). No indications of any air in system. How do I tell if the master cylinder is the correct size (bore, whatever)?
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 7
From: Ontario
Originally Posted by doug.storch
I am really going to show my newbie/greenness here-How does one bench bleed the master cylinder?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
From: Forty Fort PA
Originally Posted by carguy4sure
You are going to have to remove it and bench bleed. It took me 40 minutes on the bench pumping while tapping before I got all of the small bubbles out. I cannot imagine how long it would take on the car...days?
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 7
From: Ontario
Originally Posted by langg
I didn't think bench bleeding would be necessary after having gotten the thing to pump and then pressure bleeding from the calipers back. I did tip it back and forward during the process. Did I mention that I am using Dot 5 fluid?
Last edited by Retro78; Aug 23, 2005 at 02:30 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,812
Likes: 4
From: Gig Harbor Wa
You don't have to remove the master to bench bleed it. You can do it on the car. Get some short pipes and route them back into the master opening. Then pump the pedal until no air is present. Like this.(I know this is not what your master looks like, but you get the idea.)
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
From: Oakdale Ca
Yes, can be done on the car, but only if the MC is level...requires lifting the rear up on most GM's...otherwise ya just can't get the air out.
Also, please note that the lines you route back to the MC res. need to be kept IN the fluid...otherwise you suck air when the plunger is released.
Also, please note that the lines you route back to the MC res. need to be kept IN the fluid...otherwise you suck air when the plunger is released.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,812
Likes: 4
From: Gig Harbor Wa
True it is only 2 nuts, but it is much easier to push the pedal than it is to push in the plunger with a scredriver. I did not jack up the rear for either the stock or the new master and had no air in the system.
1978SA: Yep, its all mine... unless you want to buy it for the right price.
1978SA: Yep, its all mine... unless you want to buy it for the right price.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
From: Forty Fort PA
Thanks for the info/advice everyone. I bit the bullet and pulled the master last night. 45 min. - 1 hour later I have all the air out. Now to get it back in without introducing too much back in.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,406
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
1968 Master Clylinder Question.
The 68 MC has what looks like bleeder nipples in the main MC body. If never seen these in any other MC. Anyone knows if these are intended to be used to bleed the MC?
My MC is in the car, it's dry, and I just don't want to remove it. Rather than bench bleed it, I was planning on just jacking the car up so the MC was parallel to the ground. Maybe the 68 MC with what looks like bleeder nipples will make this job easier.
.........................
My MC was "restored/rebuilt" by Paragon. It's has stainless steel inserts. I have all new ss brake lines and new SSBC calipers. The system is all new and dry. I'm planning to use DOT 5.
When I received my restored MC back for Paragon, I was disturbed that what looked like an unpainted cast iron body had some small rust spots. I decided to clean the MC body with lacquer thinner and brush off the rust. The lacquer thinner removed the "rust!" It turns out the MC body was not unpainted cast iron - the body was painted to look like natural unpainted cast iron, and the "rust" was paint also!!! The Paragon restoration service made the MC look like it did on a new car; i.e. unpainted cast iron with a little rusting. This is pretty obviously something done to appeal to NCRS folks.
The 68 MC has what looks like bleeder nipples in the main MC body. If never seen these in any other MC. Anyone knows if these are intended to be used to bleed the MC?
My MC is in the car, it's dry, and I just don't want to remove it. Rather than bench bleed it, I was planning on just jacking the car up so the MC was parallel to the ground. Maybe the 68 MC with what looks like bleeder nipples will make this job easier.
.........................
My MC was "restored/rebuilt" by Paragon. It's has stainless steel inserts. I have all new ss brake lines and new SSBC calipers. The system is all new and dry. I'm planning to use DOT 5.
When I received my restored MC back for Paragon, I was disturbed that what looked like an unpainted cast iron body had some small rust spots. I decided to clean the MC body with lacquer thinner and brush off the rust. The lacquer thinner removed the "rust!" It turns out the MC body was not unpainted cast iron - the body was painted to look like natural unpainted cast iron, and the "rust" was paint also!!! The Paragon restoration service made the MC look like it did on a new car; i.e. unpainted cast iron with a little rusting. This is pretty obviously something done to appeal to NCRS folks.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
From: Forty Fort PA
Originally Posted by 68/70Vette
1968 Master Clylinder Question.
The 68 MC has what looks like bleeder nipples in the main MC body. If never seen these in any other MC. Anyone knows if these are intended to be used to bleed the MC?
My MC is in the car, it's dry, and I just don't want to remove it. Rather than bench bleed it, I was planning on just jacking the car up so the MC was parallel to the ground. Maybe the 68 MC with what looks like bleeder nipples will make this job easier.
.........................
My MC was "restored/rebuilt" by Paragon. It's has stainless steel inserts. I have all new ss brake lines and new SSBC calipers. The system is all new and dry. I'm planning to use DOT 5.
When I received my restored MC back for Paragon, I was disturbed that what looked like an unpainted cast iron body had some small rust spots. I decided to clean the MC body with lacquer thinner and brush off the rust. The lacquer thinner removed the "rust!" It turns out the MC body was not unpainted cast iron - the body was painted to look like natural unpainted cast iron, and the "rust" was paint also!!! The Paragon restoration service made the MC look like it did on a new car; i.e. unpainted cast iron with a little rusting. This is pretty obviously something done to appeal to NCRS folks.
The 68 MC has what looks like bleeder nipples in the main MC body. If never seen these in any other MC. Anyone knows if these are intended to be used to bleed the MC?
My MC is in the car, it's dry, and I just don't want to remove it. Rather than bench bleed it, I was planning on just jacking the car up so the MC was parallel to the ground. Maybe the 68 MC with what looks like bleeder nipples will make this job easier.
.........................
My MC was "restored/rebuilt" by Paragon. It's has stainless steel inserts. I have all new ss brake lines and new SSBC calipers. The system is all new and dry. I'm planning to use DOT 5.
When I received my restored MC back for Paragon, I was disturbed that what looked like an unpainted cast iron body had some small rust spots. I decided to clean the MC body with lacquer thinner and brush off the rust. The lacquer thinner removed the "rust!" It turns out the MC body was not unpainted cast iron - the body was painted to look like natural unpainted cast iron, and the "rust" was paint also!!! The Paragon restoration service made the MC look like it did on a new car; i.e. unpainted cast iron with a little rusting. This is pretty obviously something done to appeal to NCRS folks.
