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I have a 5 point harness that holds me in the seat pretty good. Those are C4 seats which have a lot of side bolster. I'm not against a racing seat and that may happen this year.
My dad is against them. He's also against setting up the suspension correctly like all the vintage racers do and he thinks the rear sway bar helps the toe in and old the trailing arm in. It drives me nuts lol.
He says he wants to make a nicer car for himself and then maybe I can do things my way. He pretty much bought all the stuff that needed to be rubuilt. I have enough money saved up to buy all the solid bushing and stuff my self.
69autoXr, have you ever had a G-meter on your car? It appearers to be cornering super hard in that picture. Your car looks to be set up very will. Must be fun.
69autoXr, have you ever had a G-meter on your car? It appearers to be cornering super hard in that picture. Your car looks to be set up very will. Must be fun.
jetvette,
I was just at Buttonwillow this past weekend April 8-9. I was doing some shakedown on my most recent modifications. I will be there again on June 10 & 11.
As you have read tragedy struck this past weekend. There was two rollover incedints. One a fatality and one just a banged up car. A very humbling thing to say the least. I was always on the fence about putting a full roll cage in my car but now I'm convinced I did the right thing. (I put one in this off season).
Anyone who reads this. Let this be a warning. It can happen at any time. Better to be safe than Sorry.
Anyway, Keep the shinny side up everyone.
Later!
[QUOTE=72 RAY]jetvette,
I was just at Buttonwillow this past weekend April 8-9. I was doing some shakedown on my most recent modifications. I will be there again on June 10 & 11.....QUOTE]
I am putting it on my calendar, I'm due for a trip home around then. It would make a nice little cruise for the '78. Thanks for the update.
Holy crap this looks so awesome! I have wanted to go to the TT AutoX course at Qualcomm on the weekends for the longest time, but never have.
I was just thinking, if you were going to pick up a car just for AutoXing, do you think a c4 would be a good choice? It seems like they can be had for cheap, and at least it's still a vette!?
Holy crap this looks so awesome! I have wanted to go to the TT AutoX course at Qualcomm on the weekends for the longest time, but never have.
I was just thinking, if you were going to pick up a car just for AutoXing, do you think a c4 would be a good choice? It seems like they can be had for cheap, and at least it's still a vette!?
A C4 is a great choice for an autocross car or track car. Actually it's a much better car to start with than a C3.
How do you guys not crack your fenders with the wheels sticking out 2-3 inches past the fender lip?
You must have some awlfully stiff springs or extended bump stops to limit wheel travel????
Turtle, I have the VB&P setup. I just raise the ride height and put tape on the fender to see if it is rubbing. The tires are only 26.5" stated in the rear, 25.5 front and are actually a little smaller. I have not had to much problem with it. I have since gone the L-88 fender route and this is no longer an issue. I will be stepping up to 18" racing wheels (probably Kodiak) and some nice vintage 17" wheels for the street once I'm finished with the rear suspension upgrades. I'm working on Aerodynamics now to try and get the car to stick better. So far I have bested my best time at Buttonwillow by 2 seconds with a splitter, side skirt and spoiler. I'm curently working on a removable wing for the rear.I'm trying to have the car done in time for a National Event at Mid-Ohio in Sept. As I have said before The DIHLEMA! How fast you can go depends on how much you want to spend! This round of mods will hopefully do it for me. Maybe I will be content after it is completed.
Keep the shinny side up!
Later!
Turtle, I have the VB&P setup. I just raise the ride height and put tape on the fender to see if it is rubbing. The tires are only 26.5" stated in the rear, 25.5 front and are actually a little smaller. I have not had to much problem with it. I have since gone the L-88 fender route and this is no longer an issue. I will be stepping up to 18" racing wheels (probably Kodiak) and some nice vintage 17" wheels for the street once I'm finished with the rear suspension upgrades. I'm working on Aerodynamics now to try and get the car to stick better. So far I have bested my best time at Buttonwillow by 2 seconds with a splitter, side skirt and spoiler. I'm curently working on a removable wing for the rear.I'm trying to have the car done in time for a National Event at Mid-Ohio in Sept. As I have said before The DIHLEMA! How fast you can go depends on how much you want to spend! This round of mods will hopefully do it for me. Maybe I will be content after it is completed.
Keep the shinny side up!
Later!
Don't you have 15 inch real racing wheels? What size are they if your interested in selling them. I may be interested After I ask my dad lol.
I have since gone the L-88 fender route and this is no longer an issue....... I'm working on Aerodynamics now to try and get the car to stick better. So far I have bested my best time at Buttonwillow by 2 seconds with a splitter, side skirt and spoiler. I'm curently working on a removable wing for the rear........
So much for putting that car back to stock.
What's a splitter???
We'd love to know more detail about what you're doing. So you won't be ready until Sept? Bummer. I have been thinking about flares and 17x12s but that's a crapload of work and a pile of money for wheels.
We'd love to know more detail about what you're doing. So you won't be ready until Sept? Bummer. I have been thinking about flares and 17x12s but that's a crapload of work and a pile of money for wheels.
yellow73sb,
Yes, I have 15" Real Racing Wheels. They are the wide-5 type with adapters. I have 6@15x10 and 2@15x12. I may end up selling these when I'm 100% committed to the new wheels and tires. Only time will tell or your Dads check book!
Turtle,
Yeah, No going back now. I have always liked the flares on other cars. Now I love them on mine. It's soo BAD-A$$. I can't wait for everything to be done and painted. I'm making all the Aero stuff removable so when the day comes I do a Street thing it won't be to out of control. I'm totally going for the L-88 racer look on the outside but underneath the check book is the limit. I will break down all the mods as soon as they are completed and tested. The list is very long. I am competing each month and trying to upgrade in between events. I'm finding this to be very difficult and will probably take July and August off in order to complete everything in time for Sept.
The splitter is an Aluminum piece that attaches to the front of the car under the grills. It traps the air and forces it around the outside of the car instead of underneath. The lip extends out about 2" to give it some down-force as well. I made holes in it for my oil cooler that will become brake ducts once I move the cooler up in front of the radiator. It looks pretty cool but is strickly a race accessory.
The wheels are definatly not cheap that's for sure. If they improve the handling as much as everyone is telling me then I think they will be worth it. I have noticed that the Bias-ply tires do flex alot. Now that I am pushing the car so hard that I can feel it, I don't like it1 I'm ready to try the Road Race Radials now. I'm hoping to get some 18" Goodyear G-19's Once I have my wheel specs figured out. I'm waiting until I have the rear suspension completed so I can measure everything up. I'm not sure on Kodiak or CCW for the race wheels. I have heard the Kodiaks are lighter. We will see soon enough.
Later!
yellow73sb,
Yes, I have 15" Real Racing Wheels. They are the wide-5 type with adapters. I have 6@15x10 and 2@15x12. I may end up selling these when I'm 100% committed to the new wheels and tires. Only time will tell or your Dads check book!
Those are to wide. And why did you get the wide 5 wheels with adapters?
Those are to wide. And why did you get the wide 5 wheels with adapters?
They are cheaper! Once you have the adapter you can switch between any size wide-5 wheel 15" or 16". The wide-5 is universal. You can get them used all over the place. Just need to know your back space and your good to go. I wasn't sure I was going to stay with the 15" so I wanted the option to go up to 16" back when the Real Wheels were cheap. Now they are pretty expensive but still cheaper than a 5 on 4 3/4 wheel.
How do you guys not crack your fenders with the wheels sticking out 2-3 inches past the fender lip?
You must have some awlfully stiff springs or extended bump stops to limit wheel travel????
I removed the front and rear bump stops years ago. They are excess unsprung weight.
Springs are measure in how many pounds it takes to move one inch. An example:
You have 550 # on the front and 420+ pound on the rear. Lets say that your car with driver weighs 3200 pounds and is a 50/50 weight split front and rear.
Now your out on the track with really sticky slicks. So sticky that you can lift both inside tires off the ground in a turn. That places 1600 pounds on each outside tire. That 1600 pounds only compresses your front wheel 2.9 inches and your rear wheel 3.8 inches.
So if you have less than 3 inches of clearance in front and less than 4 inches in the back your never going to hit a tire against the fender. I was worried about how close my fronts were last year so i spaced my front spring to get another 3/4 inch fender gap.
I just got off the phone. Ordered the Guldstrand all steel bushings. I don't want to fool around with trying to fit generic ones. These are expensive but should be straight forward. The lower need to be tack welded in and the upper are knurled.
I have a 5 point harness that holds me in the seat pretty good. Those are C4 seats which have a lot of side bolster. I'm not against a racing seat and that may happen this year.
I want to also get the rear strut rods with the hem joints. I am moving towards making things more solid. Also going to finally install my spreader bar. its going to be tricky with the mechanical fan.
I just ordered 1 generic one from speedway along with some tie rods and heims. I'll see if it fits. I too some measure ments and Im pretty sure they will work. If the one does fit Im going to order the other 3 and have a total of 40 dollars for the top bushings. And they don't have teflon sleeves.
You have 550 # on the front and 420+ pound on the rear. Lets say that your car with driver weighs 3200 pounds and is a 50/50 weight split front and rear.
Now your out on the track with really sticky slicks. So sticky that you can lift both inside tires off the ground in a turn. That places 1600 pounds on each outside tire. That 1600 pounds only compresses your front wheel 2.9 inches and your rear wheel 3.8 inches.
How about if you hit a bump going around that corner.