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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 08:30 AM
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Default yolk end play

Found out today that the r/side yolk going to the half shaft on my 69 has excessive end play at the diff. I rebuilt the entire front end (steering and susp.) so I am capable of doing some work, however I have no exp. on vette rear ends. Is this something I may be able to do, or should I leave it to the experts?
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by sly vette
Found out today that the r/side yolk going to the half shaft on my 69 has excessive end play at the diff. I rebuilt the entire front end (steering and susp.) so I am capable of doing some work, however I have no exp. on vette rear ends. Is this something I may be able to do, or should I leave it to the experts?
It's a matter of swapping out the worn yoke for a new one. It's a pretty easy job.
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 09:30 AM
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The most common problem is the end of the yoke is mushroomed over due to a non hardened tip. The replacement yokes and new ones all have a hardened tip. The problem is all the material that has been worn away is roaming around the diff ruining bearings and clutch plates. If you pull the rear and find them worn out it is time to rebuild the rear. The rears can be a little tough to setup if you don't have the proper tools. Many here including me have done their own and Gary (gtr1999) has a greta paper on rebuilding the rears. If you send it out it will be about 700 to 1000 to get a good rebuild job. There are 400 dollar ones out there but beware you get what you pay for. Since you rebuilt your front end you can take the rear apart and if you are not comforatble doing it yourself have someone else do the rear. A lot of labor charge would be just getting the rear pumpkin out. Do that yourself and see what you have first.
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 09:31 AM
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Are they held in with a c-clip as the straight axles are or is it a different setup. Also are they shimmed?
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 10:44 AM
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They are held in with a snap ring. Very similar to the axle type rear ends. No they are not shimmed.
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 45ACP
It's a matter of swapping out the worn yoke for a new one. It's a pretty easy job.
If your axle or side gears are not shimmed properly it will give excess play even with a new yoke. I have removed .050 play in a yoke by just properly shimming the side gear.
The axle gear in the gear located behind the posi shim pack. Warn posi plates increase the side gear clearance causing more play in the yoke.
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
If your axle or side gears are not shimmed properly it will give excess play even with a new yoke. I have removed .050 play in a yoke by just properly shimming the side gear.
The axle gear in the gear located behind the posi shim pack. Warn posi plates increase the side gear clearance causing more play in the yoke.
:o My answer was a little too simple. As you and and a couple of others have pointed out, everything in the pumpkin should be examined carefully.

When I had mine apart years ago I replaced the clutches and springs while I was fooling around with the shafts. I got everything where I wanted it and then welded up the ends of the shafts with hard facing rod. It only took a few minutes in a Bridgeport once they cooled down to get the lengths where I wanted them. If my memory serves me correctly, I ended up between .0005" and .001" clearence.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 10:26 AM
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Thanks for all your input guys, but I decided to have it done by a pro. Good thing too cause they found alot of damage to the diff. They are rebuilding it complete and exchanging the ring and pinion for better highway crusing( and gas milage).
Thanks Again,
Sly
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by sly vette
Thanks for all your input guys, but I decided to have it done by a pro. Good thing too cause they found alot of damage to the diff. They are rebuilding it complete and exchanging the ring and pinion for better highway crusing( and gas milage).
Thanks Again,
Sly
That is usually the case. Once you get in there you find more problems.
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