AC Questions...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,412
Likes: 3
AC Questions...
Well I need to replace my heater core, and from the looks of it I should probably replace my AC hoses/ lines while I'm in there. (They leak right now). Right now I have the stock setup and the old R12 I think it's called and I have to convert to the R34... I think it's called.
To convert do I use the same compressor and condensor?
Should I just buy the metal/ rubber lines made for my car? Or do I need different lines for the conversion? (R34 setup)
Also! Is there any thing else that needs to be replaced? Some part of the AC system that I might not know about?
To convert do I use the same compressor and condensor?
Should I just buy the metal/ rubber lines made for my car? Or do I need different lines for the conversion? (R34 setup)
Also! Is there any thing else that needs to be replaced? Some part of the AC system that I might not know about?
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,361
Likes: 383
From: Plano TX
You don't have to convert to R134a. R12 is still available, although more expensive.
If you do convert: Yes, same condensor etc. If you buy new hoses they are R134a compatible. Replace all O-rings (you should anyway).
You will need a new drier regardless if you do R12 or R134a.
If you do convert: Yes, same condensor etc. If you buy new hoses they are R134a compatible. Replace all O-rings (you should anyway).
You will need a new drier regardless if you do R12 or R134a.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 359
Likes: 0
R12 is still available but you have to have a federal license to buy it. You can save some money by doing the mechanical work yourself and then taking it to a shop to have the unit leak checked, evacuated and charged. If you want to do it yourself, you will have to convert to r134a. If you do the conversion, you will need to remove the compressor, drain the oil, replace it with polyolesther oil (POE).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by Russ Bellinis
R12 is still available but you have to have a federal license to buy it. You can save some money by doing the mechanical work yourself and then taking it to a shop to have the unit leak checked, evacuated and charged. If you want to do it yourself, you will have to convert to r134a. If you do the conversion, you will need to remove the compressor, drain the oil, replace it with polyolesther oil (POE).
you can get the R12 on ebay
but "for export only" 
I know two guys who converted from R12 to 134a and both say the AC performs as well as it did before. It seems there is no reason not to convert... you'll have to install new seals (o-rings), replace the hoses depending on their age and condition...
here's a good example of a aftermarket AC:
Racer
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 359
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by torqvette
I'm ok with using the R134, don't want to hurt the ozone any more than I already have to so that I can enjoy this car.
And what is a drier?
And what is a drier?
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Racer
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 359
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by torqvette
OK cool, and the drier is behind that fiberglass panel that covers the heater core I'm assuming?
If so all the more reason to do this while I'm changing the heater core.
If so all the more reason to do this while I'm changing the heater core.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,426
Likes: 1
From: VetteMOD
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Originally Posted by Russ Bellinis
The drier is the accumulator/drier, that big aluminum tank looking thing on the right end of your firewall in the engine compartment. One other thing to change is the orifice. If you look at the hose that runs from your condenser (the radiator looking thing in front of your radiator) to the accumulator, you will see a crimp about 2"-3" up from the fitting where it fastens to the accumulator/drier. If you open that fitting, you will find a plastic piece with a screen in it sitting in the line. The crimp keeps it from moving closer to the condenser, and the fitting locks it in place on the other end. The orifice is the "brains" of your a/c system. The accumulator/drier will probably cost about $70.00 or so, the orifice is less than $10.00. I do refrigeration for a living for the last 30 years, feel free to ask any questions.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 359
Likes: 0
That question stumps me. I work primarily with refrigeration where we use thermal expansion valves instead of a fixed orifice. Where did you get the variable orifice? If you got it from a reputable automotive a/c shop that does work on older cars or from a G.M. dealer, it is probably right. If you got it from an auto parts store, I would stop by an automotive a/c shop with the orifice and ask them about it. Most shop personel in my experience don't mind answering questions like that for people if the one asking doesn't come off as a total idiot.
