Rear Bearign Rebuild
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 958
Likes: 1
From: In the Beautiful Shenandoah Valley of VA
Originally Posted by gtr1999
The races in the housing are removed by hammer and drift. There are spots to hit the race and drive it out.
Here is the press setup I use
Here is the press setup I use
I am getting ready to press my rear bearings apart and have the same press setup as you have. I'm curious how you managed to get those two plates in between the spindle and the bearing housing to press the two apart. I'm having trouble making that setup. Thanks.
Steve
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 958
Likes: 1
From: In the Beautiful Shenandoah Valley of VA
Originally Posted by gtr1999
Steve, I strip the PB shoes out and always replace the backing plate so I can get the black plates under the plate and use a spindle knocker to protect the threads and press apart. This job the right came apart without much force build up and the left was so screwed up it came out as I was tapping off the spindle support.
Gary
Thanks Gary, that makes sense.
Steve
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 837
Likes: 3
From: Texas
Gary, I've always been curious about something. Do you ever find the spindle journals to be slightly egged? Mine were close to half a thou egged to the plus side.....at least according to my bearing charts. The finishes were still near perfect......just egged....which is not terribly uncommon on a shaft ground between centers. Half a thou doesn't sound like much, but it essentially doubles the amount of interference on two sides of the journal.
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88,393
Likes: 2
From: eville in
Originally Posted by gtr1999
Worked on the arms today. removed the bushings, stripped, washed, and painted with Eastwoods rust encapsulator. This is the 1st time using the eastwood product,usually I use POR15.
Gary
Gary
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
If you want to get the races out without a chance of damaging the housing use a tig welder and lay a bead on the race, it'll practically fall out. If you don't have tig but a mig it'll work too as long as you leave the housing a bit greasy to avoild splatter from sticking (or use anti splatter spray)
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: Lincolnshire,ENGLAND
Originally Posted by gtr1999
I have never had one bearing set dialed in with the shim size in any of the kits. If I was doing this all the time all day long I'd have a full set of .001" increment shims in front of me to speed up things. Instead I final fit them using a surface grinder.
Had to do this with my shim kit to get it as close to the tight end of the factory end play tolorence.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
??? crush the bearings? That's what the spacers and shims are for, you set the bearing play when torqued to 100lbs.ft. The setup tool just mimics the spindle but it's slightly undersize so the bearings are a tight slip fit, this way you can disassemble it. If you then torque the whole deal down w/ the spindle in place the bearings are press fit on the spindle, when this is torqued down it's exactly the same as w/ the setup tool. The spacers determine the bearing end play, crush doesn't come into play here.
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Nov 18, 2005 at 01:21 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: PA
Thanks TT, I was just thinking that when you press the bearing back over the spindle the bearing would run in to the races and put pressure on them, I wasn't thinking of the spacers, now I get it, I'm doing my first set and just didn't want to take any chances, sorry, stupid question.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 958
Likes: 1
From: In the Beautiful Shenandoah Valley of VA
Originally Posted by gtr1999
Steve I PM'd you some info this AM.
Gary
Gary
Steve
