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Had a similar problem. Turned out to be the starter (or more likely the solenoid).
Take a digital image of your fuse panel and remove every fuse. Meaure the current draw on the battery. If you're still pulling, suspect the starter or battery cables. If you're not drawing, replace each fuse one by one until you isolate the guilty circuit.
Had same on my 76. Turned out that the lighter was an after market (longer than original) and it would be pushed in just enough to make contact when the sliding ashtray door was closed. Removed lighter /shorted black **** Problem solved.
I thought I had a drain problem on my 80. I heard the clicking noise also, but then realized I had the door open when connecting the battery. It would not click with door shut- so it was a door switch/relay of some sort.
I started by checking the amp drain with all doors shut and car off. for my 80 I was told that the normal drain should be around 2-3 amps,but if you are under 10 amps you are ok. I was at 8.2 amps.
If I had more than that I was going to pull each fuse one at a time and check to see which circuit was causing the problem.
My problem turned out to be the battery not being properly charged. I took my battery to Autozone and had it charged. found out from friends who actually know something about electrical issues that a fast charge does not properly charge the battery. It can read 12.5 volts and not have enough power (amps), so the battery will drain quickly. So I trickle charged my battery for 24 hrs- no problem since.
thanks Darrel. I think you might have something there. The PO or PO's didn't replace light bulbs in my car and I've been replacing them, 6 or so. One of them was the dome light. Everything works as it should and I don't think it's draining the battery as was happening previously. Although I don't know why lack of bulbs would cause a drain so I'll keep checking.
To find your drain.TURN everything off radio ac heat,key out of switch,remove door switches and disconnect,disconnect under hood alarm switch.then disconnect neg. cable from battery.connect a good test lamp between neg. cable and neg. battery post.if light burns dim there is no drain. if light is bright there is a drain.to find drain disconnect alt. wires.if light dims the drain is in alt.if light stays bright disconnect fuses one at a time until light dims.drain will be on that circuit.mike
1980
I thought I had a battery drain problem also and in the diagnosis here is what I learned. My battery would not turn the starter after 3 to 4 days
1. I first had a bad alternator - replaced it
2. I had the battery checked and charged at Autozone
3. When I connected the battery I also heard a clicking sound- but soon realized I had the door open- when door is closed there is no clicking- so a door relay/switch was making the clicking
4. Checked the battery draw with all doors closed and power off. I was around 8 amps. I was told 2-3 amps is normal (stock equip), but anything under 10 amps is good. If I had more than 10 amps I was ging to start pulling each fuse one at a time and check for a change in draw to find which circuit is causing the problem.
5. Talked with some electrical folks (I know very little about electrical) and found out that the fast charges done by auto stores does not fully charge the battery. It can read 12.5 volts and not have much power.
6. They told me to trickle charge it for over 24hrs. I did this and everything is fine.
Razor, it may have been internal in the starter itself...that's where my drain was. A solenoid replacement helped for a while, but it came back long before the exhaust could cook a new solenoid. The BB502 mini-starter fixed everything.
Easy way to disconnect the battery, remove the 5/8 inch bolt that secures your negative battery cable to the frame beneath the battery. Can be done is less than a minute with a rachet wrench.