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In addition to the starter ground on the passenger side and #1 body mount clipped on the body to frame channel; there is a ground on each exhaust tube before passing through the portholes in the crossmember. I have no idea what your problem is, but a ground failure will certainly cause one.
With a voltmeter you should measure zero volts between the engine block and the frame. If you measure anything else check your ground cables, the tightness of the lugs & bolts and the cleanliness of the contact points.
In the dark, with engine running, where do you see arcing? Move wires around a bit with a non metalic stick and watch for an arc. Like someone else said, battery voltage will not arc, however it could spark if a wire was touching a ground.
In the dark, with engine running, where do you see arcing? Move wires around a bit with a non metalic stick and watch for an arc. Like someone else said, battery voltage will not arc, however it could spark if a wire was touching a ground.
do not see the arcing "while" engine is running. Only during startup.
Checked the engine to frame ground and battery to frame ground. Both are clean and tight.
do not see the arcing "while" engine is running. Only during startup.
Checked the engine to frame ground and battery to frame ground. Both are clean and tight.
Thats weird. It almost has to have something to do with the starter then. Its should be the only thing "running" while starting, but not while the engine is running. I bet something inside it is arcing and then causing it to travel to the weakest point. I would check all connections to it (if you haven't already) then thy chaning it. If that doesn't fix it, then your SOL from me.
Check that ground from the starter area of the wiring harness. I have bought two vettes in the last year, both had that ground on the starter motor instead of being clamped to the bellhousing bolt. My buddies vette had the same problem.
One thing to look for on ground connections is the lack of or misplacement of the star washers that go between the cable and the frame. Too many times, I've seen people put the washers between the cable and the bolt head and it doesn't work.
Assuming that your engine block is properly grounded, and it sounds like it is. Then it is concievable that there is an inadvertant connection to the pedal bracket assembly to some circuit. Power could then flow from the brake booster to ground which just happens to be the dip stick. As I recall that bracket assembly and everything connected to it are not grounded anywhere.
I would suggest that you place a voltmeter between the engine block and the brake booster and see if you are reading any voltage while cranking and when running and stopped. If so look for a circuit that is making contact with the metal brakets somewhere. It could also be in the steering column and all the switches and wires that are associated with that.
do not see the arcing "while" engine is running. Only during startup.
Checked the engine to frame ground and battery to frame ground. Both are clean and tight.
Been thinking about this...I have to agree, I doubt you would get a 12v spark to jump an 1/8", it would have to be a high energy spark, i.e., coil spark...however, I am a bit at a loss as to why it would only do it during the start-up period....unless with the key turning during start, you are activating or de-activating a ground scenario that would cause the coil spark to change least-resistance paths to the booster....Hmmmm...this is very interesting...
Additionally, regarding above from s car go...can you tell if the spark is jumping from the booster to the stick or the other way around?
You say the spark only jumps when trying to start, but doesnt when running. I would recheck all grounds just to be sure. then might try replacing starter. wouldnt think that would cause the problem but crazer things can happen.
You say the spark only jumps when trying to start, but doesnt when running. I would recheck all grounds just to be sure. then might try replacing starter. wouldnt think that would cause the problem but crazer things can happen.
I have to agree with kb2fzq - I doubt you're getting a 12v spark to jump any gap much less a 1/8" gap.
However; Something else to consider:
You say it only sparks when starting but not while running.
Should you car be wired correctly (this is, it's in "non-bubba condition") then the ignition coil is getting 12 volts during the starting process vs. the @8 volts it gets while the car is running. This higher voltage could/should result in a hotter initial spark (to aid starting) an could indeed cause your spark plug wires to arc during the starting process but not while running. May not be the answer but food for thought.
Last edited by Hammerhead Fred; Dec 19, 2005 at 12:49 AM.