Paint help
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: St Louis Missouri
Paint help
My vette was maroon; the PO painted a crappy red over the top. Now I want to strip it and make it midnight blue. I’ve read all the threads on razors, and chemical, and sandpaper. I blew most of the budget on the engine, so don’t have the money to get it media blasted. I’ve done real well with a chemical, sandpaper, razor combination, but don’t know how to get into all the little parts on the inside of the door frame, and under the T-tops. Do you all have any techniques to get to these little areas, or do I even need too? I plan to cover it with PPG epoxy primers and paints after I get it down.
Thanks
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 16,978
Likes: 7
From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
Originally Posted by 73383
Chemical Striper,and Scotchbrite Pad, Then Lacquer Thinner And Scotchbrite, Use Good Rubber Gloves
Dennis
Dennis
Bix in a black and white can from Home Depot..use a plastic scrapper to get the top layers off then scotch brite to get the residue. You can use warm water and soap in lieu of lacquer thinner if you use a water soluble stripper like Bix.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: St Louis Missouri
I’m using BIX and having a fairly good run with it, but there seems to be about 6 layers of paint and primer. I’ll have to try the scotch brite method for all the spots I can’t get the sandpaper into. I don’t think it helps that I’ve been trying to do this in 30* temps.
Thanks
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 9,206
Likes: 17
From: Sewell NJ
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,247
Likes: 471
From: Glen Allen, VA
I started with just 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper with mine, and it was taking forever. I went to Zip products since they are 5 minutes from my house and got some Spra-Strip and used it. I removed everything down to the last layer of primer and then I sanded it with the 220 from there. I started back on 12/28 and am almost done working for a couple of hours every other nite and every other weekend. I'm lucky that I'm going back to the same color so I'm not touching the door jambs. As far as the "hoop" behind the t tops, I just did that Saturday night and the front edge of it was a pain, but I just kept at it. I wound up taping plastic in place of the t tops to keep the inside clean.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 4
From: Somers CT
Originally Posted by vettfixr
Here ya go.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vettfixr/page9.htm
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vettfixr/page9.htm
Bill
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 495
Likes: 1
From: Spokane Washington
Purge chemicals
Make sure you clean the car with plenty of water and a good chemical and greese cleaner. Ting works well. Any chemicals not purged out could come throgh the paint years later when it works it 's up with changes in climate.
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Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 16,978
Likes: 7
From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
Originally Posted by Hauq`
I’m using BIX and having a fairly good run with it, but there seems to be about 6 layers of paint and primer. I’ll have to try the scotch brite method for all the spots I can’t get the sandpaper into. I don’t think it helps that I’ve been trying to do this in 30* temps.
Thanks
Thanks
Another thing, why do you want to remove the factory primer? You're just making more work for yourself.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 9,206
Likes: 17
From: Sewell NJ
Originally Posted by TopGunn
Nice writeup vettfixr, also nice looking ride. Let me know if you ever get sick of those wheels!
Bill
Bill
Thanks for the compliments. When I got the car, 20 years ago, I figured I would change out the wheels. But then they started to grow on me and I ended up liking them because they are very unique today. They are original Fenton Fanjets from the '70s in 15x8.5 inch size. I always get comments on them when I go to car shows.