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Need some tips on pulling the transmision

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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Hvymtlc5
Where/how did you disconnect your TV cable at the carb or drop the pan?
At the Pan. Why? Is that a problem?
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Perfomer
You don't have to pull the tranny all the way out . put 2 3/8 x4" bolts in the lower bolt holes of the bell houseing and remove the torque converter bolts . Put jack under oil pan to hold motor up and remove the trans mount bolts remove drive shaft slide trans back remove flex plate bolts remove flex plate
I really had no choice after all but to pull the entire trannmision. The center half of the flexplate was still connected to the engine and I had to get out the grinder because the a couple of the bolts had the remainder of the flexplate wrapped over them. I never would have had the clearance to get them out. Great suggestions for the future in I ever needed to just replace an undamaged flexplate. Thanks, Matt
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Old Feb 17, 2006 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jdmick
Well I just took my TH400 (as the first part in my 700r4 swap) out this morning using my new $80 Harbor Freight tranny jack. It worked great for this as well as for dropping my gas tank the other night. It only took me about 1 1/2 hours to get everything out. I suppose you could replace the flexplate by just sliding the tranny back far enough to get a wrench in there but I'm not sure you would be gaining much.
First thing I did was remove the driveshaft, cooling hoses, and all the shifting linkages, wires etc. Then I removed the bell housing bolts. Next I removed the three flexplate to torque converter bolts. (You can skip this step for now since you've already separated the two. ) Now is a good time to support the rear of the engine and slide the tranny jack up into position. Lastly, remove the two rear tranny mount bolts and the six bolts holding the crossmember. Once the crossmember is out of the way the transmission can easily be pulled back and lowered out of the way. Replace your flexplate and put everything back together. One thing to make sure of on installation is that your torque converter is ALL the way in. Good luck. John
Found a Harbor Freight shop just 10 miles away. You where kidding. Never new of this place but great prices. Less than $100 I had a nice tranny jack. Thanks for the info.
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Old Feb 17, 2006 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 73'454folendore
Found a Harbor Freight shop just 10 miles away. You where kidding. Never new of this place but great prices. Less than $100 I had a nice tranny jack. Thanks for the info.

Did you discover the Harbor Freight in Casselberry????
HF is a dangerous place
Inexpensive Chinese made stuff but you can't beat the prices and it is PERFECT for the tools you need for a weekend mechanic.
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Old Feb 17, 2006 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Perfomer
You don't have to pull the tranny all the way out . put 2 3/8 x4" bolts in the lower bolt holes of the bell houseing and remove the torque converter bolts . Put jack under oil pan to hold motor up and remove the trans mount bolts remove drive shaft slide trans back remove flex plate bolts remove flex plate
I use a ratchet strap up over the frame rails and under the transmisssion. Put a 2x4 or 4x4 under the pan and put the strap OVER the frame rail. Pull the drive shaft and slide the trans back against body / doghouse. no jack under trans. and plenty of room to work.
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Old Feb 17, 2006 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 73'454folendore
Found a Harbor Freight shop just 10 miles away. You where kidding. Never new of this place but great prices. Less than $100 I had a nice tranny jack. Thanks for the info.

You definetly needed to pull the tranny, we have talked about the flywheel over the last week or so. What we haven't discussed is the front seal on the transmission and inspecting the snout of the convertor to make sure the vibrating didn't cause any other issues. Only thing that would make this suck worse is to get the tranny back in and find out there's something else wrong. I would for sure replace the tranny front seal, regardless of what it looked like, they're cheap and now is definetly the time to do it.

ltlevil
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 06:04 AM
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by shoptek
Did you discover the Harbor Freight in Casselberry????
HF is a dangerous place
Inexpensive Chinese made stuff but you can't beat the prices and it is PERFECT for the tools you need for a weekend mechanic.
That's the one.
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ltlevil
You definetly needed to pull the tranny, we have talked about the flywheel over the last week or so. What we haven't discussed is the front seal on the transmission and inspecting the snout of the convertor to make sure the vibrating didn't cause any other issues. Only thing that would make this suck worse is to get the tranny back in and find out there's something else wrong. I would for sure replace the tranny front seal, regardless of what it looked like, they're cheap and now is definetly the time to do it.

ltlevil
I did upgrade the flexplate and got a new torque converter and yes I did replace the the front tranny seal. Thanks, I agree that would suck to have to pull this thing again.
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 12:54 PM
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New F'n issue. Now stocked with a new tranny jack and all new parts... I ready to put the tranny back in. I'm 8"s to high to get it under the car. I've already got this up as far as I can 18" but I need 26" of clearance to get the tranny under the car on the jack. I guess I'll need to get the car up higher or slide the tranny under the car and find a way to get it on the jack from there. Any ideas. I liked the post earlier about using the straps to pull it into position. Its going to be a long weekend..
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 01:09 PM
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One more tranny question. Does the transmission and torque converter transfer fluid? I know it need to fill the converter before setting it into the tranny. I just was trying to minimize the mess by only filling partially before installing if the fluid transfers from the tranny.
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Swamper
I use a ratchet strap up over the frame rails and under the transmisssion. Put a 2x4 or 4x4 under the pan and put the strap OVER the frame rail. Pull the drive shaft and slide the trans back against body / doghouse. no jack under trans. and plenty of room to work.
Well thankyou for that idea. I pushed the tranny under the car and used ratchet straps to pull it up to the height I needed. Just got it onto the tranny jack and that was enough for today. Only a couple of adjustments then tomorrow hopefully will finish the connections to the motor. The only problem I see is I think I need to pull the drive shaft because it's getting in the way.
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 07:54 PM
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Well with everyones help I did get the tranny attached. I only have one bolt left in the drivers side upper which is a bitch to get at and can't seem to get in started. Hope to finish this tomorrow.
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